Fuel

[Danielle]

Hi gang. At what point will fuel be sucked from the fuel pump.. I have 3 gallons in there but it dies after turning over.

[Danielle]

That was really vague.. 51 plymouth cranbrook 

 

[Marcel Backs]

3 gallons in the tank should be plenty for it to run for a good while. Fuel pump or carb as well as a blockage in the system could be a problem which is a direct result of sour fuel and/or rust over decades. Marcel

[desoto1939]

Take and air compressor and blow air back down the fuel line from where the fuel line connects to the fuel pump.

 

Did you replace the rubber hose that connects to the fuel pump with a new one. This might be starting to collapse with age and with the new  fuels..

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

 

[keithb7]

This tool is cheap. It is highly effective. I recommend. 

 

You can:

Test fuel pump pressure. Test intake vacuum pressure.

 

Open up pandora‘s box for only $15.  Every flathead Mopar owner should own one. 

https://www.opentip.com/search.php?cPath=32168&ats=gs&products_id=3616828&gclid=Cj0KCQiArvX_BRCyARIsAKsnTxMUhaItI09H24vwE7WA1v8XJwUehBAbzL6hDCrWz8ETWsxXlaQ7hqQaAt7uEALw_wcB

 

Edited January 13, 2021 by keithb7

[Danielle]

Yes I changed the rubber hoses at each end of the filter and pump. The steel lines are new as well. Before I changed out the filter I vacuumed air up the the carb and saw fuel coming up into the clear filter. So I imagine there is no block. But it runs over and almost emediatly dies. The carb is rebuilt with new gaskets and fuel jets as explained by Mike. Only thing mt carb is missing the arm on the carb that runs up and down from the carb..I think it ran before without I don't remember 

[Danielle]

I tried buying a new one but those are missing that arm as well. It connects from the top of the carb  to the bottom 

[1949 Wraith]

After you have tried to start the car, have you taken the top of the carb off and looked to see how much fuel is in the fuel bowl? Make sure the float and needle are functioning properly and that fuel is getting to the bowl. The car should idle for at least 15 seconds with just the fuel bowl full. 

Edited January 13, 2021 by 1949 Wraith

[Marcel Backs]

If the gas tank is original, it may be time to have the inside of it coated or if you have the budget, replace it with a new one. Microparticles of rust could be present in the the tank. I had the same problems with a furd rustang, had the tank coated and then it ran quite well till  the day I got rid of it. Since the lines have been replaced, the biggest part is done. When you are inspecting the float bowl, after fuel has dried in it, run your finger on the inside of the bowl. If it comes up anything but clean, you are sucking up "rust dust" which is small enough to get through some filters and plug jets in the carb starving the engine of fuel. Hope this helps! M

[Merle Coggins]

Danielle,

Have you tried holding the throttle slightly open when trying to start the engine? If the idle is set too low, or if the idle circuit in the carburetor is clogged up or out of adjustment, it won't idle properly and will die. You haven't stated this, but I'm guessing you are giving the throttle a pump or two before cranking? This would inject a bit of fuel into the intake to aid in cold starting, but would run out quite quickly if the carburetor doesn't continue to supply fuel through the idle circuit. Sometimes even 1/8 - 1/4 throttle is enough to get it running and you'll know if it's an idle problem when you release the throttle and it dies.  

[desoto1939]

5 hours ago, Danielle said:

I tried buying a new one but those are missing that arm as well. It connects from the top of the carb  to the bottom 

Danielle: Are you refering to the rod that works the choke butterfly?  Canyou take a picture of the area that is missing this rod. Not sure which rod you are refering to. Is the float set to the proper adjustment level

 

Rich

[Danielle]

Front facing angle 

[desoto1939]

Danielle the lever r rod that is missing is the choke rod.  Do you have a sisson choke that is bolted to the top of the manifold. The sison choke has a lever in which a rod connects to the metal linkage to  move the choke plate at the top of your carb I have information on the sisson chokes.  If you are looking for a NOS one they are not cheap.  It also depends on if the choke is bolted to the manifold prior to the carb so it would be located closer to the firewall or if your choke would be located infront of the carb closer to the radiator or waterpump..  There will be two small studs and a flat spot on the manifold where the choke is bolted down on the manifold and you will also need a special gasket to be under the base of the choke.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[greg g]

There is a test to check sufficient flow outlined in the shop manual.  Disconnect the coil wire, disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor. Direct the fuel line into a suitable container, a soft drink bottle have an assistant crank the starter while you observe and count pulses coming from the line 12 pulses should give you also 8 ounces give or take a bit in the container. Less flow will not support normal driving.  The compressed air trick will work but depending of the condition of your tank may need to be done regularly to keep the pickup filter free or debris.  Also any air leaks on the suction side of the fuel pump even small ones that don't weep gas will cause a decline in output volumn.   Also rubber sections of fuel line may look good on the outside but may be collapsing under suction restricting flow.

 

Do the test then proceed from there.  Also is your gas cap a vented one?

[Danielle]

22 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

Danielle the lever r rod that is missing is the choke rod.  Do you have a sisson choke that is bolted to the top of the manifold. The sison choke has a lever in which a rod connects to the metal linkage to  move the choke plate at the top of your carb I have information on the sisson chokes.  If you are looking for a NOS one they are not cheap.  It also depends on if the choke is bolted to the manifold prior to the carb so it would be located closer to the firewall or if your choke would be located infront of the carb closer to the radiator or waterpump..  There will be two small studs and a flat spot on the manifold where the choke is bolted down on the manifold and you will also need a special gasket to be under the base of the choke.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

Rich, 

Is this it ? It leads straight inside the dash 

[Sniper]

Your original choke setup ought to be just like mine.  You have a sisson choke bolts to the top of the exhaust manifold forward of the car.  there is a rod that goes from that to the choke butterfly in the top of your carb.  That is missing.  See my choke setting page for how it looks originally.  I suspect that cable in your hand was someone's attempt at making it a manual choke setup.

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/choke

[Danielle]

Sniper can you take a picture of yours 

[Sniper]

Done

 

 

[Danielle]

23 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Your original choke setup ought to be just like mine.  You have a sisson choke bolts to the top of the exhaust manifold forward of the car.  there is a rod that goes from that to the choke butterfly in the top of your carb.  That is missing.  See my choke setting page for how it looks originally.  I suspect that cable in your hand was someone's attempt at making it a manual choke setup.

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/choke

Yeah I found a bolt on the manifold with what use the be a gasket.. but just one bolt 

[Danielle]

I guess I will have to look into adjusting that rig someone made.. not me I promise ?

[Sniper]

Nothing wrong with a manual choke conversion, especially when you consider that finding the proper Sisson setup will likely be expensive.  I think the confusion came about when no one realized your setup had been converted. 

[desoto1939]

Sniper this is why I was asking her which specific rod she was missing and yes it was the choke rod as i thought when she posted the picture of the top of the carb.  If she lives in an area where it does not get really cold then she might beable to not make use of the sisson choke or try to setup a manual pul choke via the wire that she is holding in her hand.  But will have to figure how to make the choke butterfly close inthe correct fashion since the sisson choke rod  pushed upwards and this rotated the choke butterfly plate to tip and close in a motion that was going to the back of the carb.  Might work with an adapter linkage link what was used on the plymouth that only had the manual choke connect.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[allbizz49]

I have a a sisson choke. I believe the rod too. If you want them, they're yours for the cost of shipping. 

[JerseyHarold]

If I read this correctly, the engine starts and immediately dies.  The same thing was happening to my '52 Cambridge and it turned out that I had installed the needle valve (in the fuel inlet fitting of the carburetor) backwards so there was no fuel flow into the carburetor.    Take the fuel line off the carb to check it out....the pointy end of the needle valve should be towards the front of the car.  You should see it poking through the center of the fitting if it's installed correctlly. 

[Kilgore47]

You can also check the vacuum  advance module.  The diaphragm in mine was shot and that created an air leak at the carb.  I plugged the connection at the carb until I got a new one.  Then I had to rebuild the distributor because the vacuum advance in it was stuck.  It's amazing how many things on these old cars can be taken apart, cleaned and put back together.  The vacuum advance module was not one that I could take apart and fix.