Tierod Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 OK< Is this replaceable? Does it come apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 From the pics posted thats the type of canister that doesn't come apart and you were supposed to replace the whole canister with a nice new one when due........I've seen the other type that undo with a replaceable element used in place of the type you have however sometimes the oil line fittings will need to be changed due to oil line thread sizes being different........that canister type you have was a common type and I've seen what could be the same used on various GM and Frod engines, just with differing brand stickers..........does yours have any part numbers stamped anywhere on it?..............andyd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 As AndyDodge says, that type of filter was replaced as a unit. It was used on various makes of cars for probably 20 or 30 years. In your 1936-48 Plymouth Parts Book it is found in Group 10-26-06 as the “Non-cleanable” filter. Last US manufacturer of that was, I think WIX (part 51035) but they stopped making them sometime around the year 2000. Roberts Motors Lists them on their website. I don’t know where they get them. You can also find them on eBay, etc. But they are a “depth type” filter (i.e. packed cellulose fibers) which might degrade with time (or bugs eating it) so I am a bit leery of vintage ones that I am uncertain of how they’ve been stored. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 The type you are showing are available as stated above but run approx 50-70 each. Most people switch over to the canister type with the drop in filter unit. The drop in unit costs around $15 and then canister can still use the holder that is attached to you current white throw-away filter. Both styles are acceptable and with the cost of the metal canister style that you have it is not a cheap item to chnage out every couple of years. Witht he drop in filter you can chnage oil every year and not spend a fortune on an oil change. The next questions you are going to ask is what brand oil to use and what weight. Some people use the Diesel oil 15/40 becasue it has some zinc additives. Most oils that are sold today are 100 times better that the original dino oils sold. So basically any off the shelf oil will work. Since you has a filter maybe a 10W30 weight oil. If the engine is real old then maybe a straight 30W oil. Even Walmart brand oil is just fine for your old car. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 34 minutes ago, desoto1939 said: . . . Both styles are acceptable and with the cost of the metal canister style that you have it is not a cheap item to chnage out every couple of years. Witht he drop in filter you can chnage oil every year and not spend a fortune on an oil change. . . . One thing to note is that with a depth media type filter being used in a bypass setup is that you don't need to change the filter on every oil change. The original type of filter for 1933 had an additional outlet and the owner’s manual said that you checked the filter periodically by removing the plug on the second outlet to see if clean oil was coming out (engine fully warmed up and at idle). Basically, if the media hasn’t developed channels (letting unfiltered oil through) and it hasn’t been totally clogged up, then it was still good. The later filters don’t have that second outlet port so you can’t do that test. My personal test is to feel the outside of the filter after a long hard drive. If the filter feels really hot (i.e. hot engine oil is going through it) it is still good. If it is only at the general temperature of things in the engine compartment, then it may be clogged and I'll replace it. That works out to replacing it every 3 to 7 years with the amount and type of driving I do (even though I change the oil at least once a year). But please, don’t use this technique for checking a modern full flow filter. First, oil will be going through them regardless so they should always be hot after the engine is fully warmed up. Second, they are built with an internal bypass valve which opens if the media becomes clogged which you really, really do not want to happen (it dumps the collected junk into the engine). The only safe thing to do on a modern full flow filter is replace it every oil change. The only reason for bring this up is the filtering systems are different (bypass vs full flow) so the failure modes are different and that affects some of the service requirements. You can safely run the original style bypass filter for multiple oil changes, something that you should never do on a newer car with a full flow filter. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted October 21, 2020 Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) Todd: Thanks for your update on the oil filtering information. I change my filter about every two years I just take the top lid off of my canister to check the oil and also look at the color of the oil on the dip stick. If it is still gold in color thne I feel the oil is still good when it starts to be blackish then I chnage out the oil. Learn something everyday with these old cars. I know that on the old metal oil container Wix and PB 1/2 they stated you chnaged the oil filter every 8000 miles. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Edited October 21, 2020 by desoto1939 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booger Posted October 22, 2020 Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 Good info guys. Booger is my 4th plymmie and the first one with the sealed disposable filter. Okay, cool. So how long are these expensive dumbass things good for? Like in miles?. Until I salvage a changeable drop in canister this will have to do. And change the piping...and that's a good winter project. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booger Posted October 22, 2020 Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 On 10/20/2020 at 6:03 PM, desoto1939 said: The type you are showing are available as stated above but run approx 50-70 each. Most people switch over to the canister type with the drop in filter unit. The drop in unit costs around $15 and then canister can still use the holder that is attached to you current white throw-away filter. Both styles are acceptable and with the cost of the metal canister style that you have it is not a cheap item to chnage out every couple of years. Witht he drop in filter you can chnage oil every year and not spend a fortune on an oil change. The next questions you are going to ask is what brand oil to use and what weight. Some people use the Diesel oil 15/40 becasue it has some zinc additives. Most oils that are sold today are 100 times better that the original dino oils sold. So basically any off the shelf oil will work. Since you has a filter maybe a 10W30 weight oil. If the engine is real old then maybe a straight 30W oil. Even Walmart brand oil is just fine for your old car. Rich Hartung If it has API standards its probably better than what grandpa shoved down that filler tube 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booger Posted October 22, 2020 Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 I was a pump jockey in the 60s. Chevron made a re-refined 40 w oil. Flatties lived on it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted October 22, 2020 Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 I bought one of these to replace the sealed unit on my 51. https://www.omix-ada.com/oil-canister-assembly-45-67-willys-jeep-models.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted October 22, 2020 Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 Check out this company on page one engine parts for the filter setup. More like $35 https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/online-parts-catalog DJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted October 22, 2020 Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 2 hours ago, michaelmarks697@yahoo.com said: Good info guys. Booger is my 4th plymmie and the first one with the sealed disposable filter. Okay, cool. So how long are these expensive dumbass things good for? Like in miles?. Until I salvage a changeable drop in canister this will have to do. And change the piping...and that's a good winter project. I could have sworn I replied to this earlier today but I don’t see it now. I hope this isn’t a duplicate. Back in the day the disposable canisters were changed every 8,000 according to the 1936-42 Plymouth Factory Service Manual. The 1933 Plymouth Instruction Book says 8,000 to 10,000 miles. Glancing around the web, a couple thousand miles a year seems to be what most cars of this vintage get, so you are looking at replacing it every 4 or 5 years. Cost for a new filter is between $35 and $45 or between $7 and $8 per year. I don’t think I’d call it a “expensive dumbass thing” at $8/yr, far less than a tank of gas or the oil needed for your seasonal or mileage dependent oil change. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 22, 2020 Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 Without looking I believe the factory lube chart calls for oil filters to be changed with every other oil change. So if conventional wisdoms said 3000 miles for the oil, that would be 6000 miles for the filter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted October 22, 2020 Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 11 hours ago, greg g said: Without looking I believe the factory lube chart calls for oil filters to be changed with every other oil change. So if conventional wisdoms said 3000 miles for the oil, that would be 6000 miles for the filter. “Without looking I believe . . .” I looked in the 1936-42 factory service manual and saw “every 8,000 miles” (page 23). I looked in the 1933 Plymouth instruction book and saw “under normal conditions it should not be necessary to replace this filtering unit more frequently than 8,000 to 10,000 miles” (page 62). I looked in the 1946-54 factory service manual and saw “every 10,000 miles or once a year” (page 306). Remember this is a bypass filter system and the service intervals are different than for later full flow filter systems. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tierod Posted October 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 WOW, lots of good info, Thanks to all of you... Im using Rotella T 15W-40 oil. I like the Jeep filter that "Sniper" posted... or I may consider one of the used ones. I usually consider changing my oil and filter once a year, just before I put it up for the winter, I feel having clean oil in it while its sits, is better . ? Again, thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 I put a Finned Oil Filter on the 41 Plymouth I had(it was going to match the finned head, finned intake manifold, finned valve covers, finned coil cover, finned radiator cap cover, finned oil filler cap & finned air cleaners.......do you notice a trend here...lol.)..........it came with a list of 10-12 differing brands of filter elements that would fit, as it was a US made filter that I bought from Speedway Motors all the listings were for US filters........it didn't make any real difference but as it was Finned it made the car feel faster.........items painted Red also have this effect............lol............jeeze I'm a wanker.........better go sit in the corner........lol.............andyd. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 Maybe you need to change your name from Andy to Finn... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booger Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 9 hours ago, Andydodge said: I put a Finned Oil Filter on the 41 Plymouth I had(it was going to match the finned head, finned intake manifold, finned valve covers, finned coil cover, finned radiator cap cover, finned oil filler cap & finned air cleaners.......do you notice a trend here...lol.)..........it came with a list of 10-12 differing brands of filter elements that would fit, as it was a US made filter that I bought from Speedway Motors all the listings were for US filters........it didn't make any real difference but as it was Finned it made the car feel faster.........items painted Red also have this effect............lol............jeeze I'm a wanker.........better go sit in the corner........lol.............andyd. I got"lit up" once reaching across to adjust choke with car running and I came in contact with uninsulated plug clips. next project was to get some angled spark plugs boots on those wires. Red wires are cool, chrome filler cap is nice 14 hours ago, Tierod said: WOW, lots of good info, Thanks to all of you... Im using Rotella T 15W-40 oil. I like the Jeep filter that "Sniper" posted... or I may consider one of the used ones. I usually consider changing my oil and filter once a year, just before I put it up for the winter, I feel having clean oil in it while its sits, is better . ? Again, thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booger Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 I like the Jeep can as well, suggested by Sniper and thats an upgrade on my list. Right there on my glove box door is factory sticker with service recomendations. 8000 mi filter change. sheesh. Open your eyes, kid. but normally I dont go in there until I get the "License and registration, please" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Yes the sticker might say 8000 mile filter change but back then these cars were being driven almost everyday and the acid's and the water condensation was getting burned off as much as possible becasue the engines coming up to temp practically every day and the oil would also get filtered according to the bypass filtering system. BUT Now since we are now into our modern cars and this older cars are lsited as antiques we do not drive them everyday and might only put on 2000 miles per year and even less. So there is more down time and if you only start the car and run it for a few minutes to check that the battery is still charge and test the lights and brake lights and move the car in and out of the garage then the engine oil and temp of the water are not coming upto full temperature to burn off any mositure in the engine block and oil pan and these contaminents are not getting heated upto so that they have the possiblity of going throught the oil filter and the exhust system burns off the water vapors. So think about this situatin and not what the book states becsue we are using them less. Yes a modern car can get 10k miles on a filter and has safety items inthe filter if it stops cleaning the oil but the modern cars come up to temp very fast and you are driving them almost everyday so do not compare your old car with your modern car. So my thought is that spending 25-30 yearly on oil and filter is a whole lot cheaper than a new engine rebuild and the time and money for an exhaust system even if stainless steel. Jus the amount of time you spend on the oil chnage is money in the bank The old Ben Franklin say A stick in time saves Nine. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Well, the solution to not driving it enough it to drive it more. I love driving my old Plymouth. I go everywhere in it. Grocery shopping, haircuts, to the hardware store. Heck sometimes I even drive it just to drive it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booger Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 3 minutes ago, Sniper said: Well, the solution to not driving it enough it to drive it more. I love driving my old Plymouth. I go everywhere in it. Grocery shopping, haircuts, to the hardware store. Heck sometimes I even drive it just to drive it. just to git outta the house hell, yeah. go early before the zombies wake 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 43 minutes ago, Sniper said: Well, the solution to not driving it enough it to drive it more. I love driving my old Plymouth. I go everywhere in it. Grocery shopping, haircuts, to the hardware store. Heck sometimes I even drive it just to drive it. Sniper: Great that you drive your car every where. Question, Is your car registered and tagged and insured as an Antique car with one of the Major Antique car Insurance companies? You might want to read your policy to make sure that if you are driving the car to go to a haircut and not on a maintenance run an or not to a car event, like a car show or on a car club sponsored event and if you got into an accident like using the car to go to work Then they can void your policy. I know that how it is on my policy with a major carrier that has issued many policies on Antique vehicles. So beware and also beware of some of the limitations that they will payout if the car is in an accident. One member had an issue becasue the damage was more that 70% of the value and they did not payout the stated (agreed) value that the owner has the car insured for. Also check that if you have a son, daughter or friend under the age of 25 they can not drive the car and the car would not be insured. So when you have all of this information That is why I made the statement regarding the oil changes and filter changes. I attended the AACA annual meeting and convention here in Philadelphia every February and they have several Antique car Insurance companies such as JC Taylor, Congdon and Skelly, Grundy in attendance and they talk about the policies on antique cars just like what I stated above. Grundy does not care if you only use the car for 1 mile or thousand of mile so long as it it involved with the use of the car being on car club sanctioned events, tours, going to shows, cruise nights, AACA Hershey. So just be careful. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 (edited) 24 minutes ago, desoto1939 said: Sniper: Great that you drive your car every where. Question, Is your car registered and tagged and insured as an Antique car with one of the Major Antique car Insurance companies? Nope. It is registered and insured as a normal car. I did that because I plan to drive as a normal car. In fact, it is my only car though I do have the company truck if need be I just hate driving that monstrosity in town much less parking it. I do have a 65 Cuda as well, but it's not driveable and hasn't been for 20+ years. Edited October 24, 2020 by Sniper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Sniper,My first car was a 65 barracuda. 225 slant 6, auto. Best car I ever owned. Started every time in winter and I lived in Minnesota -27 degrees was nothing. My 37 Plymouth is driven on a daily basses too. Just not in the rain or when they decide to put salt on the roads. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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