53 Dodge pickup questions from a novice.

[53dodgegirl]

I am trying to find any information on an old 53 dodge pickup I bought to fix up with my dad. We know little to nothing about these trucks and information seems contradicting at times. We know it is a B series, but some say it is a B3 and others say a B4. Any ideas on how to verify which so we can ask model specific questions?

[tanda62]

Welcome,

Try running your serial number (VIN) for the truck here and see what you get.

https://www.townwagon.com/4853registry/index.php

 

[Young Ed]

That bed makes it a b4. One year only truck.

[JBNeal]

additional information - Pilot-House Registry

additional information - Pilot-House Help

additional information - Pilot-House Serial Numbers

additional information - Pilot-House Body Numbers

additional information - DPETCA knowledge

 

Do not be surprised if your truck is a frankenstein as some members have found their engines and cabs have been replaced somewhere along the way 

[53dodgegirl]

Thanks so much tanda and other replies! The old years serial decoder page was what I couldnt find online. So I guess I have a B4B. Frankenstein or not, this truck is/will be my dream truck, so I appreciate the links JBNeal. Dad said to ask why this one has no oil filter? Or if it was maybe removed? 

[JBNeal]

Oil filters were optional back then and could be added at the dealer or from an aftermarket kit at places like Western Auto...but your flathead appears to have the remnants of a car flathead's dipstick tube that has been plugged, so ya might have a Dodge or Plymouth flathead that replaced the original, as the Dodge Truck dipstick was mounted on the side of the oilpan...my '48 has a '55 Plymouth 230 in it, that was something that took access to the internets to figure out because it had the truck oilpan, external bypass thermostat housing, foot-operated starter, etc...

[billrigsby]

1 hour ago, JBNeal said:

Dodge or Plymouth flathead that replaced the original, as the Dodge Truck dipstick was mounted on the side of the oilpan

 

Is this year specific? Or is this for all B series Dodge truck models? (48 B1D)

 

Will need to go back to the shop and look at all my parts once I hear the answer to this one, to make sure I put it all together right!

[53dodgegirl]

So that plugged tube is a question for us, but the dipstick does go all the way to the oil pan. You can see the plugged tube to the upper right of the photo. Also missing the sending unit wire from whatever sending unit is between the distrubutor and the oil fill tube. They must have also added an aftermarket block heater seen just below the oil dipstick top.

 

[53dodgegirl]

Also a question about the turn signals above the headlights. Factory? Some pics show trucks with them and some dont. Anyone know of any good parts places to find the original style grill and side extensions too. My goal is to have this in some sort of show ready condition by graduation in a couple years to say dad and I did it together, so trying to get an idea for parts places to check as I save for parts.

[JBNeal]

From what I've read and heard from ppl who witnessed these things, repair shops would swap out worn flatheads in a day or 2 with rebuilt engines from local machine shops or from larger operations like Jasper, Sears, Montgomery Ward, Western Auto, etc...unfortunately, there were some differences between car and truck engines, mainly the oilpan sump, which dictated the location of the dipstick...car engines with the rear sump had a dipstick in the block, truck engines with the front sump had the dipstick on the side of the oilpan.  Flatheads also had either an external thermostat bypass or an internal bypass...mixing and matching of these configurations doesn't work too well without paying attention to the details...so ya might need to verify casting dates on your block and head as shown in the engine identification link posted to verify what ya have

[JBNeal]

From the pictures posted, I'm seeing quite a few modifications to the factory setup:  coolant overflow tank, HVAC blower motor on the firewall, PVC components on the crankcase oil fill tube and air cleaner, oil pressure switch on the oil galley port, and a few disconnected wires...the turn signals appear to be period correct aftermarket, sometimes can be found on eBay, etc...them grill parts ya need could also be found from somebody parting out a truck as reproductions are not available...

[53dodgegirl]

So the tank to the side of the radiator is actually a small fuel tank. They bypassed the original behind the seat tank and the truck runs on fuel supplied by that tank. Dad says thats gonna go for obvious safety reasons. The disconnected wires are from us pulling out the plug wires, solenoid, and distributor cap assembly to take to NAPA for matching. The truck ru s and drives but misses a little, so we plan to start with the basics. Then we plan to move to the brakes. Thanks for the great info on the updates! And thanks so much for the patience.

[Plymouthy Adams]

carry your distributor number off the distributor plate for correct parts at NAPA...it is always wise to match with like kind...but the data tag should ensure the right parts as who knows what may be on there after all these years in the field and repairs over the decades...

[Merle Coggins]

Welcome. Nice find. 

What are the numbers stamped into the flat pad at the top of the block, above the generator? (Right behind the green hose in the pic above) This is the engine number and will help determine if this was a replacement engine, and where it may have come from if so. 

 

[Jocko_51_B3B]

It looks like you've got a nice solid truck. I hope you keep it close to original. The fact that it runs is great. The old style turn signals on the front fenders are another plus. Of course the front bumper is not original nor are the wheels from what I can see. If you're a purist, original wheels do come up on eBay sometimes. Most of the Pilothouse trucks do not have rear bumpers because they were optional. Your engine might be original based on the appearance of the thermostat housing. Your engine has the internal bypass cooling system, an improvement that was introduced in 1951. Your bed sides are the low version which is rarer than the high side beds. Your front parking light housing on the passenger side (the only side I can see) is original, but the lens and lens door have been replaced with something else. I believe the original lenses were all clear glass, but I could be wrong about this. When I bought my Pilothouse five years ago I didn't know very much about it. This site was a great help. I also bought a copy of Don Bunn's book, "Dodge B-Series Trucks" which contains a wealth of information that you will  find not only useful, but very interesting. When it comes to finding parts for your truck, sheet metal is the biggest challenge. There are few reproduction stamped sheet metal parts except for bed sides, bed front, and tailgate. Most everything else must be found second-hand and repaired if necessary. New engine parts, brake parts, etc. are much easier to find and there are a number of good sources. Check out this thread:

I rewired my '51 B3B with a new harness from Rhode Island Wiring. I've gotten engine and brake parts from Rock Auto and several other sources on the above list. I had my steering box rebuilt by Lares Corporation (But go through Rock Auto for this. It's much cheaper than sending a steering box straight to Lares.) For all kinds of other parts I've needed, I've had a lot of success dealing with DCM Classics in Michigan, but I've also used Roberts, Bernbaum, and Vintage Power Wagons.

 

 

 

[Brent B3B]

Welcome dodgegirl! ?. Any interior photos?

 

looks like a fun project and you and pops have a good plan. 

 

I am a fan of getting theses trucks safe, running, driving them and fixing them up as I can. 

sure wish this forum was available when I was your age. ?

 

 

[Bobacuda]

DG -

I've had my 53 since 1975.  Rebuilt it about 3-4 yrs ago and I took lots of photos if you ever need some.  My engine (original) was pulled once for a valve job and painted blue - it is red now.  It came with an oil filter, and I tried to use a spin-on instead, but it was not compatible with the bypass oil system - back to the cannister.  On the intake manifold, you will see a Hollywood Wolf Whistle  - been on there since 1975. 

 

It will take another posts to give you "after" photos of the engine.

 

 

 

[Bobacuda]

And it won't let me load anymore photos at this time.  Will try again later.

 

If you search my past posts, there are photos of my 53 and a write up on building my wiring harnesses.

 

[DJ194950]

5 hours ago, Bobacuda said:

and I tried to use a spin-on instead, but it was not compatible with the bypass oil system - back to the cannister. 

 

Bobacuda,

 

May I ask what you found incompatable with the spin on filter set-up that you had?

I realize that most spin on filters that while may fit but are are not built for the by-pass oil filter type motors, but full flow type.

There are a few built just for that purpose and I have changed many on Mopar flat 6's from the Industrial division from the 60's that came with that setup.

 

Sorry for the somewhat OT but it may also help the OP with future add on filter choices if they chose to do this.

 

DJ

[Bobacuda]

With the spin on filter (modern type, equivalent to a Fram PH8A - not a bypass spin on), I had lower oil pressure.  At driving rpm's it would be around 30 lbs, but it would drop to maybe 5 lbs at low rpm's - no matter what weight oil.  Went back to the cannister, 30 - 35 low rpm with a hot engine, 40-45 lbs with a hot engine at driving rpm's. 

 

With the spin on, the average pressure for a trip through the pasture (or parade event) - 10 lbs.  Highway, maybe 30 lbs.

With the cannister, the average pressure for a trip through the pasture (or parade event) - 35 lbs.  Highway, 40 lbs.  It was that way up until I installed the spin on filter on it.  Pressure was back to normal after I removed the spin on and put the cannister filter back.

 

The lack of pressure bothered me..  I realize that Fords and Chevy's worked with low pressure, but the Dodge is not a splash oiling system and I'm convinced they put an oil pump capable of a consistent 40 lbs pressure.

[Bobacuda]

DG -

After photos.  The black stuff by the carb was to protect the area while touching up paint.  I was tuning the engine, so the vacuum advance line is disconnected, timing light connections hanging on, etc.  Site won't let me load the passenger side, so I will have to do that separate.

 

[Bobacuda]

Passenger side

[JBNeal]

additional information - Bypass Spin-On Oil Filter

[53dodgegirl]

Great info. Thanks again. I have started a notebook on all of this, so I make sure I am not missing anything. Here is an interior pick and I will be looking up the engine number tonight. 

[53dodgegirl]

Also looking to find the distrubutor number for NAPA.