jgreg53 Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 48 plymouth not starting. Took fuel line loose from carb. Turned engine over, no fuel coming out. Pump has gas in the bowl. I've rebuilt this pump once. Removed pump and compared it to an old one i had lying around. The round brass mesh peice is gone. Did it disenegrate? What's its purpose any way. I plan to rebuild it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 Look up at the pump arm fulcrum pin. Did it walk out? They tend to. The brass screen keeps larger rust scale or other crap in your fuel tank from going any farther than the bowl. It settles as sediment, in the "sediment bowl". If the 48 Ply has not been started in quite a while, it can take a fair amount of time to prime the fuel system. Which is why I installed a back up 6V electric pump. Hit it for a few seconds before I flash up the engine. Fires up quickly every time. Then I leave it off, using the old mechanical pump while I drive around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted July 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 The pin is still in place. I can spray ether in the carb and it will run until the spray goes away. I had just put new bushings in the carb throttle shaft and she hasen't been right since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 (edited) Leave the fuel line disconnected from the carb and the end of it in a container. Remove the gas tank cap and push an air nozzle into the fuel filler and stuff a rag around it while you apple a few psi to the tank. This should push gas through the pump and prime the system. Hook everything back up and start the car. If no gas comes out of the fuel line at the carb while applying pressure to the tank, there is a blockage that must be addressed. Edited July 15, 2020 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 6 hours ago, jgreg53 said: I had just put new bushings in the carb throttle shaft and she hasen't been right since. Where did you get the bushings from? Mine suck air something fierce and I need to fix it. Joe Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted July 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 (edited) It was a kit. Comes with brass bushings and a reamer. Found it on ebay. Shaft fits good now. Company called henkyo. Edited July 15, 2020 by jgreg53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted July 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 What causes fuel pumps to fail? The're simple devises. There's no tear in the diaphram. Springs are good. It appears to be in working order. The bowl has gas in it but it's not getting to the carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 The check valves can go bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted July 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 Check valves are just a spring, a seal and the stem. Springs aren't broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 I believe one can check these valves for integrity and ability to control direction of flow...I can see where they can accumulate debris/trash and cause by-passing and thus no compressed/pressure fuel...if the diaphragm is good, these are suspect number two and do ensure the inlet screen and passage is also free from accumulated foreign matter....many times the components, tubes and lines, fitting are not tight or suffer from a pin hole that will suck air and not fuel...this is often check by short line of good quality tightly fitted and feeding out of a clean bucket of fuel close to the pump itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted July 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 (edited) How important is gasket sealer where the top and bottom sandwich the lip of the diaphram? Edited July 17, 2020 by jgreg53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, jgreg53 said: Check valves are just a spring, a seal and the stem. Springs aren't broken. Sometimes they just don't seal reliably (weak spring...worn seat?) and pressure/suction if present may be reduced or intermittent. Edited July 17, 2020 by Sam Buchanan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted July 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 So i put the pump in the vice. Did a pressure check. Shows the pump works. I put a hose on suction side ing stuck it in the gas can. Put a hose on the other side and rsn it to a container. I worked the arm and it performed right. I got half a beer bottle full of gas with 3 pumps of the arm. Put the pump back on and tried to start. Got some gas in the filter this time. Now starter is dragging after trying a few times to start. The car is on a slight incline with the front higher. I have quarter tank gas. Maybe i'll try turning it around pointing down hill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 Are you sure you have a 1/4 tank of gas? The gauge may be lying to you. Could actually be empty. Could also have a leak in the line between the tank and pump that caused it to suck air instead of gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted July 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 The gauge has been truthful so far. I checked the fuel line from the tank to the pump seems to be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 ok so you have verified that the new FP works with a separate can of gas feeding the pump via the vacuum from the arm movement and gas comes out the other end. As you stated the car was sitting on a hill with the tank end on the downward of the engine. Ok so you want to turn the car around but it will not starts. Go get more gas 5 gallons and put it inthe tank. Sounds as if the tank was so low that it is not getting gas to the line or can you jack up the rear end and put jack stands under the rear to at least level the car or push the car to a level spot an retest. just be careful if the car is up inthe air. Rich desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 The sediment bowl will remain full when the tank runs dry or has blockage, it has to have constant supply. I think you're out of fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted July 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 Different prob now. Who has the best starter rebuild kit. Took starter off bench tested running slow. She's a dragging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 take it to a good alternator starter repair shop. Have them put it on a growler and also to see if the mica needs to be cut down. Or just replace the brushes yourself and see if that helps. Could also just be the bearing are trashed and need to be replaced. So are you now saying that since the starter is not up to full usage you think the issue with the gas is the starter motor? Or did you solve the issue with the fuel pump? Rich Hartung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted July 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 Right now i can't get it to crank fast enough to start it. After a cpl times of spraying ether and cranking the starter starts dragging. Battery is showing over 6 volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted July 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 I've never had the starter rebuilt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 18, 2020 Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 suggest you do a voltage drop test prior to sinking a bunch of money in a rebuild only to find you still have a high resistance in the major cabling....you should get a manual and follow along in the trouble shooting a bit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreg53 Posted July 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 So if i do detect a voltage drop what would that indicate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 18, 2020 Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 A possible internal short in the armature. Some voltage going to ground before doing its job and turning the engine over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted July 18, 2020 Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 More likely bad battery cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.