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Everything posted by jgreg53

  1. Just watched motherless brooklyn today. Lots of cool old cars in it. Many old mopars.
  2. You should make sure the door's not sagging causing the missalignment
  3. I'm sure all they did was removed the clutch pan and dropped the clutch components instead of removing the floor access. The flywheel wouldn't drop out until i loosened the bell housing a bit. That was more trouble than this shop wanted to be bothered with. They hoped i wouldn't notice. My shop manual actually said to remove the oil pan. I don't know why that would be done.
  4. I pretty sure a new clutch and pressure plate are in order. And the release bearing is loosy goosy.
  5. They said they could either grind or turn
  6. Turns out our local advance auto which has merged with car quest does flywheels for 45 bucks. They can grind or turn.
  7. There are a couple of shops near me that i'm giong to check with.
  8. I found a website, bradsnosparts. He has 2 flywheels. Part #s MD0267786 and 4348312. His website doesn't say what they fit. Do either of these sound familiar?
  9. Sounds more like sarcasm. Seriously can this flywheel be saved?
  10. I've been watching videos of guys resurfacing flywheels with angle grinders snd flapdiscs
  11. It's a stock 48 p15. Does any one think this flywheel can be saved?
  12. I had the clutch, pressure plate and release bearing changed about 4 years ago. The shop that did it didn't resurface the flywheel. The clutch vibrated when i started off.
  13. Pulled clutch and flywheel today. Components are scorched and flywheel is cracked. Haven't been able to find another from usual sources. Can the flywheel be saved at all?
  14. I removed the steering gearbox yet again. I noticed that with the cross shaft out and the rod and bearings and cups in, the bottom cup was recessed into the housing. When i put the cross shaft back in, the cup came back out to flush with the gearbox housing. I made a shim to go between the bottom cup and cover to take up the gap. This corrected the play in the box and gave me room to adjust the play. Other than some binding when turning left, the play is about right.
  15. I used the pinion nut and an impact driver to get the seal in place
  16. I have laid under the car as the steering wheel is turned from lock to lock. I can't detect a great deal of play in the tie rod ends. I still see play in the steering box. I admit i'm not an expert in this.
  17. I know we have beaten this subject to death, but i need to vent. I have rebuilt my steering box with a kit from AB. I've had the thing back off the car a cpl of times to see if i missed something. With the box on the bench. I can get the play down to a desirable amount. One thing i have found is that if you have a small amount of play it gets amplified through the rest of the components. I'm beginning to believe the gears are worn out. I found replacement gears through ams obsolete but they want a lot for them.
  18. Wanted to get opinions on the quality of fuel we are running these days. I say it's crap. Do you folks run any kind of additives?
  19. I ended up with 2 batteries. One for the memory wire and one for the power wire. Works good. I know they will need charged eventually.
  20. I tried 2 of those. One quit working. I fried the other trying to hook it up.
  21. On the modern radios, the yellow wirw is for memory and the red wire goes to the ignition. I have both of those hooked to a mower battery in the trunk. My p15 is still 6 volt. When i unhook the battery so that the radio isn't on constantly, i loose the memory. Any ideas?
  22. I've rebuilt it twice. The second time with a kit and video from mike's carberators.
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