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steering gear box


DJK

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Filled box w/ 90wt., leaks just sitting in the garage. I know I won't know condition of the shafts(pitted/rusty) until disassembled, but for you guys that have experienced rebuilding them, is it worth it or just go w/ a reman.?

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the box is sealed in numerous places and depending on the area it is leaking the extend of the repair and as none of it is hard to do including the sector shaft seal itself....you are the only one that can make that call.  Have you even studied the parts breakdown of the sector in order to get an idea of what will be involved.  If you do not have serious compromised surfaces on the gears themselves....in my opinion, an at home fix is quick and easy.  Others as a band-aid have removed the 90 wt. oil and filled with other more solid less flowing but still provides very good lubrication....the farm industry corn head grease is one that has been a go to here by others.  But if you have deep pockets and want the car disassembled for the turn around period sending it out for rebuild requires, this also is a very viable alternative.  

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I rebuilt our D24's steering box several years ago.  Only hard part was finding the major parts (sector shaft, and steering shaft with worm gear).  Ours was quite sloppy, it wouldn't respond to proper adjustment and needed the complete rebuild.  It does not even hint of leaking now.  If yours is still relatively tight and is only leaking, then all you need to do is replace the sector shaft seal, available from a few sources listed in the links directory. (I got the rebuild kit from Andy Bernbaum.)  You should remove it, and will have to take it apart to replace that seal anyway, and can check the condition of the sector shaft and end gasket/shims, and go from there if it needs more work.  There are sources to rebuild the one you have, and/or there may be rebuilt boxes available from those same vendors.  Leaving the search for parts up to the rebuilder may be worth it in the long run, but if all that needs replacing is the seal, then that's a DIY project.  Many folks herein use and recommend corn head grease, I do not.  My personal preference is to use what the steering box was engineered to use - 90wt gear oil.

Edited by Dan Hiebert
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24 minutes ago, Dan Hiebert said:

I rebuilt our D24's steering box several years ago.  Only hard part was finding the major parts (sector shaft, and steering shaft with worm gear).  Ours was quite sloppy, it wouldn't respond to proper adjustment and needed the complete rebuild.  It does not even hint of leaking now.  If yours is still relatively tight and is only leaking, then all you need to do is replace the sector shaft seal, available from a few sources listed in the links directory. (I got the rebuild kit from Andy Bernbaum.)  You should remove it, and will have to take it apart to replace that seal anyway, and can check the condition of the sector shaft and end gasket/shims, and go from there if it needs more work.  There are sources to rebuild the one you have, and/or there may be rebuilt boxes available from those same vendors.  Leaving the search for parts up to the rebuilder may be worth it in the long run, but if all that needs replacing is the seal, then that's a DIY project.  Many folks herein use and recommend corn head grease, I do not.  My personal preference is to use what the steering box was engineered to use - 90wt gear oil.

I agree on the return to original in fit form and function....but, the use of alternate lubrication was pointed out by me IS a band-aid fix....and until one has the time to take it apart and the sole problem is just loss of lube and not all slop...this will PROTECT the internals from accelerated wear that loss of lube will only guarantee...I would much prefer to hear the corn head grease is in there than leaking lube oil and the fact that a person could well forget to keep the lube loss topped off.  

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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Thanks guys, the box is tight, very little free play. My concern is the sealing surface on the shaft. Seen many Nissans that were not able to reseal. I guess I will take it apart and see. Waiting for seats to be done anyway and most shows have been cancelled.

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...do look a the parts breakdown as it will show you the basic construction.  The manual will walk you through the repair...if you do not  have a manual and wish to tackle this I will not say it cannot be done but you do need some specs to go by, personally I recommend the book and close adherence to the procedure.  These unit have been out there in excess of 70 years for the most part....a testament to their construction.

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Whilst the original style pitmen shaft seal which is a leather seal is available I would suggest using a neoprene seal, any good bearing shop should be able to supply upper & lower shaft bearings & pitman seal......real problem is if the worm and/or sector are worn and they maybe getting hard to find.........Penrite Oil here in Oz makes a specific Steering Box Lube.........andyd

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I talked to a well established shop about spray welding worn areas of shafts etc. and he experience was all bad -pretty much all jobs became comebacks-IE not good.

 

Sold the spray welding machine to someone else. So he went back to the old ways. Turn the shaft down and make or purchase a piece of steel to repair, heat and press on to get back within specs as he had done previously-No comebacks!

 

Cheating did not hold up!

 

Just what I heard.

 

DJ

 

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Fabricated a seal for the lower tube from a caliper pin boot trimmed to fit. Seems to be working so far. 106247198_274052777272299_3252848249248072520_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_sid=b96e70&_nc_ohc=T2EY9mvmmZ4AX8skx0D&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.xx&_nc_tp=6&oh=bacd39b44ea0fe3645aac330905ca8fb&oe=5F1A47B2The seal on the tube is the original, lower seal is not the one I used, I  scrapped that idea.

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On 6/24/2020 at 12:16 PM, Doug&Deb said:

I rebuilt the steering box on my D24 some years ago. Getting the box out of the car was harder than the rebuild lol. I’m not a good mechanic by any stretch so you will be fine.

Yes

The steering shaft is part of the entire assembly. pretty much have to get the car about 3-4 feet in the air.

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