Silver Engine paint

[marfulle]

I am going to be installing a motor in my 48 plymouth. I would like it to look as stock as possible. What is a decent silver ratttle can paint I can use on the block an various parts to the motor. What is the best way to prep the motor (it's a motor that was pulled from another car) and clean it up before paint.

[Merle Coggins]

I used Dupli-Color Engine Enamel from Checker. It's also available at my local Farm & Fleet (like an oversized Tractor Supply for you southerners:p ) and other stores. I painted it as I was assembling it, so it was rather clean. I prepped it with a 3M pad, then washed it down with Brake Clean. Then I primed it with "Engine Primer - DE1612". When that dried I topped it with "Aluminum DE1615". I also used the Dupli-Color High Heat "Aluminum DH1606" on the manifolds. It looks good so far. I can't vouch for it's longevity yet as I have only test ran it, on the floor, so far.

[BobT-47P15]

.....I used and have gotten decent results from POR 15 high heat aluminum color paint. This little can is about $15, and i applied it with a brush.....with no primer, etc. The rattle can stuff I had used did not hold up very well. I think someone said the metal of the engine needs to breathe and too many coats of primer, paint, etc might not be so good. Other guys have different favorite paints as well. Used this on block and manifold both.

[JIPJOBXX]

And I see you used a plastic bag between the lid and container if you didn't you would never get that lid oft. This product is great and I have used this stuff for mending up rust out spots on my floor board. Expensive but works great!!!!!

[BobT-47P15]

Yep, Jon, they told me to do that for just that reason. Have not tried to remove the lid since putting it back on, but will need to do so one of these days for some touchup. .

[Young Ed]

Bob I will personally verfiy that you will never get the lid off it you don't use that plastic. Been there done that. Oh I also store the can upside down because it eventually forms a film and then all your paint is stuck underneath it.

[james curl]

The POR 15 salesman told me to punch two holes on opposite sides of the lid and to pour the paint out into a small cup then use two sheetmetal screws to plug the holes. That way the lid nevers comes off and less moisture enters through the two punched holes than through the open lid. I understand that POR 15 requires a chemical reaction with the moisture in the air to cure.

[Bob_Koch]

I like the idea of the two holes and sheetmetal screws. Sounds like a better way to go. I found that storing the can upside down helped also

[JBNeal]

Hey Merle:  While looking for something else, I found this...how does the engine look these days?  Any rust bleed or staining?  Just curious I reckon, I've painted several engines and engine parts with different primers, using rattle can on sheet metal and a foam brush on cast iron and I have found that cleaning and preparation before the top coat make a big difference on paint quality over time.

On ‎11‎/‎15‎/‎2006 at 3:03 PM, Merle Coggins said:

I used Dupli-Color Engine Enamel from Checker. It's also available at my local Farm & Fleet (like an oversized Tractor Supply for you southerners:p ) and other stores. I painted it as I was assembling it, so it was rather clean. I prepped it with a 3M pad, then washed it down with Brake Clean. Then I primed it with "Engine Primer - DE1612". When that dried I topped it with "Aluminum DE1615". I also used the Dupli-Color High Heat "Aluminum DH1606" on the manifolds. It looks good so far. I can't vouch for it's longevity yet as I have only test ran it, on the floor, so far.

 

[classiccarjack]

I have used the POR 15 silver paint on the Hemi's and the Flatheads with great success.  My only gripe is that the air is dry here, and it takes 4 days to cure!

I use VHT Cast Blast SP998 on exhaust manifolds and components that are supposed to remain cast iron with great success.  If I ever use a VHT brand silver colored paint, and it holds up, I will let you know.

[Young Ed]

43 minutes ago, classiccarjack said:

I have used the POR 15 silver paint on the Hemi's and the Flatheads with great success.  My only gripe is that the air is dry here, and it takes 4 days to cure!

I use VHT Cast Blast SP998 on exhaust manifolds and components that are supposed to remain cast iron with great success.  If I ever use a VHT brand silver colored paint, and it holds up, I will let you know.

I believe the can says you can't start the engine for 7 days on the POR engine paint. I will say its holding up a lot better than the previous paint I had on my flathead

[Merle Coggins]

2 hours ago, JBNeal said:

Hey Merle:  While looking for something else, I found this...how does the engine look these days?  Any rust bleed or staining?  Just curious I reckon, I've painted several engines and engine parts with different primers, using rattle can on sheet metal and a foam brush on cast iron and I have found that cleaning and preparation before the top coat make a big difference on paint quality over time.

 

I don't have a recent picture handy, but it's still silver. Maybe a bit dirty and faded... There is some rust in the spark plug wells from water setting in there when I had to park it outside in past years. Other than that I believe it's still OK. I guess I haven't paid much attention to it any more. 

Merle

[Mike36]

For cleaning old baked on oil, dirt, grease, try oven cleaner.

[pflaming]

Merle, what  engine is that? My dipsticks go through the block. Of all the nice colors used I have come to prefer silver.. I thouroughly cleaned my truck  engine, then a coat of prep and etch followed by four coats of clear to give me a rust resistant old iron old school look.i get lots of compliments.  Suburban engine is silver. 

[Young Ed]

3 minutes ago, pflaming said:

Merle, what  engine is that? My dipsticks go through the block. Of all the nice colors used I have come to prefer silver.. I thouroughly cleaned my truck  engine, then a coat of prep and etch followed by four coats of clear to give me a rust resistant old iron old school look.i get lots of compliments.  Suburban engine is silver. 

Your truck pan should look like that. Earlier trucks and cars have the rear sump with the dipstick in the block

 

[Merle Coggins]

Yeah... What Ed said...

[pflaming]

I reviewed a pic of my truck  engine and the dipstick IS in the pan!  Bad memory.

[John-T-53]

I can vouch for the POR-15 engine paint. Good tip on poking holes in the can, James. Every time I use the POR is usually clean the rim and lid so that it's completely free of paint, that way it comes off again. But, something in the factory seal is better than when you reseal it, because the remaining paint develops a hard skin no matter how well you put that lid back on. Brake clean works great as a solvent and can/brush cleaner. Also, 3M adhesive cleaner is another great solvent that cuts the POR.

Also, a very good aerosol engine paint I've found is Aervoe. My local machine shop uses it. It goes on without primer, dries fast, has high build, and when cured is rock hard. I like to use it for everything now. Aervoe can't be found in retail stores (that I've seen) but the shop gets it from their supplier. I just checked and it's available online: http://aervoe.com/paints_coatings/Engine-Enamel.html

Aervoe makes a nice cast iron color too.

Edited April 12, 2017 by John-T-53

[Young Ed]

5 minutes ago, John-T-53 said:

I can vouch for the POR-15 engine paint. Good tip on poking holes in the can, James. Every time I use the POR is usually clean the rim and lid so that it's completely free of paint, that way it comes off again. But, something in the factory seal is better than when you reseal it, because the remaining paint develops a hard skin no matter how well you put that lid back on. 

I believe that's due to the additional volume of air replacing the paint you used up. The guys at the store where I bought mine had me pushing cling wrap down to the paint level and then sealing the can

[desoto1939]

On my 39 De Soto engine I just used a high temperature silver paint and it has been holding up very well over the years. I have had this paint on for almost 30 years.  Have done some minor touch ups but overall it has held up very well.  ANy good quality high temp silver paint will work.  Remember that these Chrysler engines were to be a functional engine and not the pretty looking Ford Engines that only deliver 85+ HP with their V8's.  Our flathead 25 inch block had 92 hp right out of the assembly line.  So just paint it to your color that you like and then paint the other components black, they do not have to be a high gloss lacquer over done high sheen like on the trailor queens and the AACA National winner cars.  If it is a driver than make it nice and have fun with the car.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Don Coatney]

42 minutes ago, desoto1939 said:

On my 39 De Soto engine I just used a high temperature silver paint and it has been holding up very well over the years. I have had this paint on for almost 30 years.  Have done some minor touch ups but overall it has held up very well.  ANy good quality high temp silver paint will work.  Remember that these Chrysler engines were to be a functional engine and not the pretty looking Ford Engines that only deliver 85+ HP with their V8's.  Our flathead 25 inch block had 92 hp right out of the assembly line.  So just paint it to your color that you like and then paint the other components black, they do not have to be a high gloss lacquer over done high sheen like on the trailor queens and the AACA National winner cars.  If it is a driver than make it nice and have fun with the car.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Interesting concept. I never thought about a color to HP relationship. If I bought a furd engine and painted it silver would the HP increase?

Back to no funny business I sand blaster my exhaust manifold and painted it with the paint pictured below 15 years ago. Posted below are then and now photos.

The paint.

Before

 

Now

[1949 Wraith]

I also like the Dupli Color ceramic high heat paints. I have found it very durable and use it almost excursively in all painting applications.

[DrDoctor]

   I’ve been following this with interest, and while I acknowledge that silver is the original color for the engine, I personally didn’t like it, which is why I repainted with the same brand paint as Don Coatney, but I used a Pontiac color, because I had a Pontiac for almost 45 years, and loved the car, but it was time for someone else to be the custodian of it. All of the brackets and such were painted with the cheapest satin black I could get my hands on. While it won’t win any awards in a car show, we don’t attend car shows as participants, or as spectators, so who cares? It looks really nice, the paint holds up very well, and we’re happy with the results in the Plymouth.

[Niel Hoback]

I am lucky that when I take my Wartburg to shows, no one knows what's right or wrong but me.

[classiccarjack]

9 hours ago, John-T-53 said:

I can vouch for the POR-15 engine paint. Good tip on poking holes in the can, James. Every time I use the POR is usually clean the rim and lid so that it's completely free of paint, that way it comes off again. But, something in the factory seal is better than when you reseal it, because the remaining paint develops a hard skin no matter how well you put that lid back on. Brake clean works great as a solvent and can/brush cleaner. Also, 3M adhesive cleaner is another great solvent that cuts the POR.

Also, a very good aerosol engine paint I've found is Aervoe. My local machine shop uses it. It goes on without primer, dries fast, has high build, and when cured is rock hard. I like to use it for everything now. Aervoe can't be found in retail stores (that I've seen) but the shop gets it from their supplier. I just checked and it's available online: http://aervoe.com/paints_coatings/Engine-Enamel.html

Aervoe makes a nice cast iron color too.

At least it has a Hemi on the can!  I'm sold!  Just kidding...  It's certainly worth looking into.

I forgot to mention Plastkote brand.  Not to be confused with plastidip for tool handles and such.  IT'S A ACTUAL PAINT COMPANY.  Carquest stopped carrying it and began selling the cheapy Duplicolor stuff...  BOO!  I can either buy it online or go to a company named metro to order it.

Some folks are OK with Duplicolor, but it's not up to my standards.  I guess I can be...  "Picky"