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Posted
2 hours ago, keithb7 said:

Oh boy! What a truck. Very nice find. I want to come hang out at your place and fix Mopar stuff. In an old wood barn. ?

Canada's not that far from me, right?! Jump in your car and get down here, I could use the help!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I thought I read somewhere that the 'T' meant truck in the MN license plate back in those days. I have a plate like that for mine :)

Mike

 

IMG_20161104_174156200.jpg

Edited by Mike 1948 1Ton
  • Like 2
Posted

when you and ed meet up let me know.  I had a plate resto'd for FEF that I got at the 50's.  The T plates are definitely a bit more obscure in the world.

 

As for the fender, loooks like someone already pounded it out a bit in a few places.  Mine were flat from hitting fence posts and such on the farm, trying to squeeze by...guessing the same for yours.

Posted
14 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

when you and ed meet up let me know.  I had a plate resto'd for FEF that I got at the 50's.  The T plates are definitely a bit more obscure in the world.

 

As for the fender, loooks like someone already pounded it out a bit in a few places.  Mine were flat from hitting fence posts and such on the farm, trying to squeeze by...guessing the same for yours.

Will do.  It will be good to put faces to names.  

Never knew that about the license plates.  Pretty cool.  

The fender is really stout. someone must have banged something pretty hard to dent it in like that.

Posted
1 minute ago, Worden18 said:

Will do.  It will be good to put faces to names.  

Never knew that about the license plates.  Pretty cool.  

The fender is really stout. someone must have banged something pretty hard to dent it in like that.

 

look thru my build thread for the as pulled out of the barn look.  I have flattened rear (BAD) and front fenders on the drivers side.

  • Like 2
Posted

I believe that is called by driving by braille. When the vehicle hits something you are too close. Time to turn some or quit all movement in that direction!  ?

 

Lot of kids learned to drive very young on farms and used the braille system to get started.

 

DJ

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm looking forward to hearing how Worden's success with double clutching goes!  I can go up all 4 gears not an issue......downshifting though I've been less successful.  Fortunately its geared so low there is hardly a need to downshift.

Posted
3 hours ago, mmcdowel said:

I'm looking forward to hearing how Worden's success with double clutching goes!  I can go up all 4 gears not an issue......downshifting though I've been less successful.  Fortunately its geared so low there is hardly a need to downshift.

I mentioned earlier that I had a 1955 c3 flat fender Power Wagon that needed double clutching. Although it's been more than 20 years, shouldn't be a problem. Kind of like riding a bike ?

Posted
On 1/12/2019 at 10:08 PM, Dodgeb4ya said:

In Washington state a collector YOM plate on a truck means you cannot haul loads with it.?

PA has the same rule, I am planning on pretending I don't know in the unlikely event I am pulled over, willing to bet that the vast majority of officers have no idea about that rule.

  • Like 1
Posted

Jan. 16:

Removed the crappy battery and wrong size diameter (and very long) cables.  I have some questions:

 

  Look at picture #2 first.  Is there supposed to be a box down inside there to set the battery in? Otherwise the battery seems awful exposed.  I only have one clamp-down rod at the moment so the previous owner had a strap to hold the battery down.  

 

Also, the negative battery cable running to the starter was routed between the frame and the floorboard which you will see in picture number one (I had already removed the cable at this point). It doesn't seem to me that should be the place to run it. Especially when I replace the old cable with the big 00 cable.  It's not going to fit through there without getting pinched. Can someone tell me the right way to route it?

IMG_20190116_084320695~2.jpg

IMG_20190116_084305715~2.jpg

Posted

Jan 16:

The hood straps (to keep the hood from over traveling) are broken. I need to replace them. What kind of material is that?  Does someone sell this material?Has anyone else made their own straps out of something they found laying in their garage?

IMG_20190116_084245994~2.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, Worden18 said:

Jan 16:

The hood straps (to keep the hood from over traveling) are broken. I need to replace them. What kind of material is that?  Does someone sell this material?Has anyone else made their own straps out of something they found laying in their garage?

IMG_20190116_084245994~2.jpg

That material reminds me of those cheap belts with the 2 D rings for fastners

  • Like 1
Posted

What you may be looking for may be called ribbon webbing by an auto upholstery  supplier or someone who does marine covers.  I've got a bunch of it in 1", 1 1/2", 2 " that came with the used sewing machine purchased several years ago from a upholsterer who did a ;lot of boat covers before he retired.  If you can't find anything, let me know and I'll send you some.

Posted
1 hour ago, Dave72dt said:

What you may be looking for may be called ribbon webbing by an auto upholstery  supplier or someone who does marine covers.  I've got a bunch of it in 1", 1 1/2", 2 " that came with the used sewing machine purchased several years ago from a upholsterer who did a ;lot of boat covers before he retired.  If you can't find anything, let me know and I'll send you some.

Okay, thank you. I appreciate that. ?

 

Young Ed mentioned the material looks like web belts.... Navy belts is what I remember now so well.  I think I might have one or two lying around that I could put to good use.  We shall see. ?

Posted

Jan 16: 

- Measured the old battery to make sure I get the right size.  I also measured what I believe to be the right lengths for the cables.  Jotted all that down.  I will probably fab my own battery box from scrap material at work.

 

- Removed the fuel filter.  Just about got the carb off but didn't have a needle nose pliers with me to remove the cotter pin holding on part of the linkage.  I'll finish that up tomorrow.  My kit came in the mail today so I hope to tackle that soon as well.

Posted
19 hours ago, Worden18 said:

Jan. 16:

Removed the crappy battery and wrong size diameter (and very long) cables.  I have some questions:

 

  Look at picture #2 first.  Is there supposed to be a box down inside there to set the battery in? Otherwise the battery seems awful exposed.  I only have one clamp-down rod at the moment so the previous owner had a strap to hold the battery down.  

 

Also, the negative battery cable running to the starter was routed between the frame and the floorboard which you will see in picture number one (I had already removed the cable at this point). It doesn't seem to me that should be the place to run it. Especially when I replace the old cable with the big 00 cable.  It's not going to fit through there without getting pinched. Can someone tell me the right way to route it?

 

 

 

I should have good pics in my build thread of these parts in question restored as close to original as possible.

Posted
43 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

I should have good pics in my build thread of these parts in question restored as close to original as possible.

I'll look it over again; thanks ?

Posted
On 1/14/2019 at 4:40 PM, mmcdowel said:

I'm looking forward to hearing how Worden's success with double clutching goes!  I can go up all 4 gears not an issue......downshifting though I've been less successful.  Fortunately its geared so low there is hardly a need to downshift.

This has been my double clutching experience too; can go up w/o an issue, but downshifting, eh, so, I just let it chug and then feather it back up to speed again. Seems to work okay. ?

Posted
54 minutes ago, Worden18 said:

I'll look it over again; thanks ?

 

if not I know I have some pictures somewhere.

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Dodgeed said:

This has been my double clutching experience too; can go up w/o an issue, but downshifting, eh, so, I just let it chug and then feather it back up to speed again. Seems to work okay. ?

When you're downshifting from 4th to 3rd you push in the clutch go to neutral, rev the engine a little bit, push in the clutch again and then shift to third. It's a matter of revving the engine just the right amount.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I made this up which is pretty close to factory design though for a group two battery.

I did not fab the bottom lipped tray though as I didn't want it or need it. The hold down was enough to hold the battery tight in place.

B3D group 2 battery tray (5).JPG

B3D group 2 battery tray (2).JPG

B3D group 2 battery tray (6).JPG

  • Like 2

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