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Posted

Put on an inline fuel filter backwards at first, then saw the "In" stamped on one end and turned it around, but not until I tried strarting her.

 

Now when trying to start, engine catches pretty good but won't keep running and then I see fuel dripping from the bottom of the carb - lots of fuel.

 

What changed? Fuel lines are not leaking. What would be the next best course of action?

 

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Posted

Check the float bowl shut off valve.  It might have a little dirt that is preventing it from shutting off the flow of gas resulting in the float bowl overflowing.

  • Thanks 2
Posted

Did you install the gas filter directly in front of the carburetor? If so you may have disturbed the float shut off valve when you wrenched the fuel line that screws into the float valve. Remove the top of the carburetor and make sure the float valve is working. Use 2 of the special line wrenches pictured below to insure you do not twist the float fitting when you reassemble.

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Come on.....

We need to see it!

Posted (edited)

LOL 

 

Interestingly, my truck came with a carb rebuild kit. Some parts (gaskets) are obviously used while most of the parts are new, including a needle and seat. Oh, accelerator pump too. Now I'm conversing with myself over how important rebuilding it all is vs. just new seals, needle and seat. Do you think a new accelerator pump is important?

 

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Edited by FlashBuddy
Posted

A new accelerator  pump is very important!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
9 hours ago, FlashBuddy said:

Damn. Sounds like I'm in for a rebuild. Maybe a new accelerator pump will make my acceleration hesitation bog go away?!

 

That is a very good probability. On mine, the accelerator pump passage was also blocked so the gas couldn't get to the nozzle. I had to do some extra cleaning to get it to work properly.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Well @Merle Coggins, I mixed up fifty fifty boiling water and Simple Green. Gave it all a soak, toothbrush scrub. A little poke in any hole I could find. Carb cleaner spray rinse and compressed air blow dry. Put it all back together. Rox fired right up and let me tell you - WOW! Runs so much better. More responsive, more power; highly recommended  course of action. Thanks for the suggestions and pushing  me towards the obvious.

 

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  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

If you decide you rather have your carb rebuilt by professionals there is a company near Chicago called: United Remanufacturing Co, Inc. a United Carburetor Company, 9550 Soreng Ave, Schiller Park, Illinois 60176 (847-678-2233). email: aportman37@yahoo.com. Family owned they did our fluid drive carb and made it look brand new. They test before they ship so your carb comes preset to the specs of your vehicle. They did ours three years ago and no problems since.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks! That is really good to know. I discovered that taking it apart and cleaning it is pretty simple. Sure, there are a lot of little parts, but with a few photos and some organization; egg carton, baking tray, magnetic parts cup...  keeping track and getting all the pieces back together is straight forward. In fact, it went a lot smoother, faster and calming than re-building my brakes :)

 

Still, you have a great resource there, especially when one considers how important and rare these carbs are.

 

I wish I had a blast cabinet. I would have bought a few boxes of baking soda and soda blasted it to near new appearance!

Edited by FlashBuddy
Posted

 I hate to say this, but auto zone $159.00 ..  ordered in morning , had same afternoon.. my old carb. wouldn't  idle  consistently,,  some weeks ran good , some weeks not so good .. accel. pump was a joke. I borrowed a smoke machine ,, throttle shaft , and warped flange.   did not pass the smoke  test .. i wasted time , polishing a turd.  I started looking  for a late model carb.,  like  something from the 70's...  found one of my old slant six carbs bolts  right up, needs spacer to clear linkage.       johnsartian   posted  a rock auto   carb.  fits,  searched  autoline C522  . auto zone carries  autoline  carbs  .. new rebuilt carb. in my hands  ,with warranty.. hated to spend the money     will put old carb   on shelf and fix it later   ,,..

  • Like 1
Posted

Just a update, new carb. installed.   two pumps on  foot feed  ,  motor starts faster than I can get foot off stomp starter...  hot or cold .   revs good ,  like an old tractor motor.   now the duration test . time will tell !!

  • Like 2
  • 2 years later...
Posted

I have been having the same issue as flashbuddy with his carb leak. When I got the rebuild kit for the carb the gaskets seemed very thin. I have a decent leak coming from the gaskets which I think is drawing more air in the system. Has anyone had trouble with this? I checked and double checked thr float at the correct height in the service manual, the shut off valve is seated probably, just the leak out the sides badly. 

This is the picture from Flashbuddy and its exactly where my leak is. 

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Posted

You could try doing another teardown and a careful check of all the mating surfaces. I would try a very light application of Permatex #2 to both sides of the gaskets then carefully snug up all the fasteners.

Hth Jeff

Posted

I dressed the bottom of my carb on sandpaper on a piece of glass.....helped a bunch.

  • Like 1
Posted

Also make sure you used the right gaskets. There are some in the kit that look very close but don't have the proper ID. 

Posted (edited)

Thanks ggdad1951 that worked well and solved the gasket issue. I thought I had cleaned up really well where those seat but I guess not. A leak still remains but now I can see its out of the accelerator shaft. 

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Edited by Ronnie
Forgot picture
Posted
9 hours ago, Ronnie said:

I have been having the same issue as flashbuddy with his carb leak. When I got the rebuild kit for the carb the gaskets seemed very thin. I have a decent leak coming from the gaskets which I think is drawing more air in the system. Has anyone had trouble with this? I checked and double checked thr float at the correct height in the service manual, the shut off valve is seated probably, just the leak out the sides badly. 

This is the picture from Flashbuddy and its exactly where my leak is. 

image.png

Did you submerge float in hot water to check for bubbles?

at least shake it and see if it has gas in it?

Posted

Seems to be a common problem with the Carter B&B, that acc pump bore has that rough cut in the side of it facing the bowl, some guys run with the float a little below spec to stop the leak, seems to work. Might give it a try, easy to put back if it doesn't fix it.

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