torqczar

lean mixture???

so sad , will never see dorf any more , so sad

it will fill the bowl , will fill accelerator pump well , then when bowl is full drip down into intake and run out on the ground..won't go past the needle and seat...well if it works?

just had same problem, a good come along was $250.. cheap ones fail.... so I blocked trailer wheels and rear of trailer so trailer wouldn't tilt , chained snatch block too truck frame ,a piece of good rope . tie to tow vehicle and to trailer ... pulled up on trailer , was amazed at ease of pulling truck on trailer.. my D100 slant six didn't even grunt ... simple tools are the best

way to much tongue weight, back that big truck up..you'll be fine.

I paid $1400 a year ago, bored ,crank turned, head flatted, pistons , rings ,bearings, magnaflux block, head and crank , balanced ,freeze plugs, valve guide , fly wheel turned, oven baked block cleaned, ..the magnaflux and balance was the expensive part...$250 each.ouch... I just added timing chain set , gasket set , oil pump, lots more cleaning of parts and reassemble.... sitting on stand. when installed it will run past my lifetime. won't smoke ,won't leak anything. my motors must pass the white glove test...

been starting the search for tires, found these https://www.nebraskatire.com/passenger-car/hard-find-bias-700x15-and-750x16-new-traction-tread-tires-sale I emailed for shipping prices..

you don't want trim it because it would leave a scratch on the arm next time.. I bet someone works on their car a lot and thats called planning ahead. Or is there a flag on the end ,so you know where to point the fire extinguisher...

ouch

no copper spray on PermaTorque head gaskets.. i looked it up on felpro site. if block and head are flat, check torque wrench calibration , the big snap on trucks have a machine to check. . copper spray , is a band aid to other problems... head and gasket need to be able to move around. the gaskets you buy today are light years ahead of '49 gaskets... why did you change head gasket in the first place? was it blown between 1 and 2?

http://www.oldmoparts.com/ they have brakes

https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/viral-video-glitter-bomb-package-144600989.html good idea ,but?

OK, I guess the lower wheel cylinder.

Bank teller at the bank said, " just roll the quarters and dimes, dump the rest in a coin machine, bring the rolls to me ". I'am cheap, so I roll all my own.. once a year...this year had enough to get a carburetor , a gas tank , and 5 gallons race gas . It's like free money!!

+1 on the throwout bearing and check bearing retainer.. check clutch free travel.. also with a bad transmission bearing, you would have other problems.. as for removing trans, I put floor jack under trans in line. so the jack can roll back. wiggle transmission, slide it back , lower, wiggle transmission, slide it back , lower, for extra insurance place many short 2x4s around jack, in case you can't control the crash .. roll it off the jack.. drag it out ... I put them in the same way... slow and calculated is best ..

"seems that it is very easy to flood the motor ", the motor is flooded before you start it..." The carbs leak after I turn the engine off thru the bottom shafts", high float level caused by float level too high, , trash in the needle and seat , sunk float. because both carbs. leak ...I would head to the fuel filter, trash made it to the needle and seats. you need to get new ones, they come in the carb. kits Or the float level is just set to high , from past repairs. pull carb. top off like 5 or 6 screws...you can push float tang against the needle and check height , level or less . . as for synchronizing carbs , you need 2 vacuum gauges.. synchronizing carbs. is not that important,, because they share a common plenum.... make sure they open at the same time. and go to full throttle at the same time ,set mixture too highest vacuum..Oh yea,, does oil smell like gas???.

A can of carb. cleaner w/tube , lightly spray carb and anything that touches the intake. If spray finds any sorts of spark, it will burn , and that's always exciting . .. my guess is a worn throttle shaft. Or the less flammable way, fingers over the carb. to slowly richen mixture. if its a vacuum problem it should smooth up just before trying to stall...this way doesn't pin point the location, but just verify a leak ....... I want to see pics. of the plugs.

Just a update, new carb. installed. two pumps on foot feed , motor starts faster than I can get foot off stomp starter... hot or cold . revs good , like an old tractor motor. now the duration test . time will tell !!

I hate to say this, but auto zone $159.00 .. ordered in morning , had same afternoon.. my old carb. wouldn't idle consistently,, some weeks ran good , some weeks not so good .. accel. pump was a joke. I borrowed a smoke machine ,, throttle shaft , and warped flange. did not pass the smoke test .. i wasted time , polishing a turd. I started looking for a late model carb., like something from the 70's... found one of my old slant six carbs bolts right up, needs spacer to clear linkage. johnsartian posted a rock auto carb. fits, searched autoline C522 . auto zone carries autoline carbs .. new rebuilt carb. in my hands ,with warranty.. hated to spend the money will put old carb on shelf and fix it later ,,..

http://www.lmctruck.com/dodge/ they send a catalog. bought a bunch of parts for my driver 84 d150

good point . you can see combustion chamber, same thing. missed it by 2 inches, sorry.

I have questions.. Is there water flow in radiator when running at operating temps. ? Is top hose ,bottom hose ,and radiator all the same temps. at operating temps? if it's flowing, you need to check for a head gasket leak, pull oil fill cap, is condensation present ? pull water pump belt off . remove cap ,start motor . are there bubbles present in radiator when revving or leave belt on and let motor idle look at the bubbles , do they go away in a couple of minute of idling ..compression bubbles look different than aeration bubbles .. or go buy block checking kit, see if changes from blue to yellow...https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7001006... It would be good to invest in a IR temp gun ..https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Non-Contact-Thermometer-Temperature-Functional/dp/B00QYX6F5G. cheap and good for everything. don't get me started on all the problems this thing can help find..I typed bubbles many times.. Or pull all plugs look into cylinder too see if any piston tops are clean..

A clutch, is a clutch, is a clutch. makes no difference a 39 plymouth to a 2018 dodge ram , to a peterbilt 379. . its all the same . just bigger parts.. you just need to find a good mechanic.. chase down a Snap on tool truck.. And what Plymouthy Adams, wayfarer, said... seek and you will find....Check the Napa store, I get many referrals from them. sorry for the font change , copy and pasted , the whole thing failed..Oh no!!

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