48 Chrysler New Yorker starting issue

[olefre]

My 48 Chrysler New Yorker conv. is hard to start when not beeing started for several days.

I have to run the starter for a long time before it starts up. When started recently it starts up really easy, and also runs very nice and stable.

I have replace the choke, but it made no difference. 

When starting I press the pedal to the floor once, and then run the starter. Is this the right procedure?

 

Any input for where to start troubleshooting is appreciated!

 

[Merle Coggins]

When they sit for a while the gas in the carburetor will evaporate away. So when you go to start it you will have to crank a while to get gas back in there. Best practice is to crank for short bursts, 10-15 seconds each, with a pause in between. This keeps the starter from over heating. After a couple of crank cycles there should be some gas in the carburetor, now give the gas pedal 1 or 2 pumps and crank again. If it doesn’t start that time try the same thing again on the next cycle. 

 

Option 2 is to add an electric fuel pump to help prime the carb after long rest periods.

[knuckleharley]

People are so used to electric fuel pumps and FI these days they think something is wrong if a car doesn't start within seconds of turning the key. I have a 6 volt car at a restoration shop now having new rain gutters installed and rust holes welded up in the roof. Was driving it pretty much every day before it went in,and when the restoration shop owner,a guy I know that is in his 60's came here to get it with his son,I showed them that it had to be in neutral to start. Since I had driven it that morning,it started right up.

 

He gets it in his shop and it sits for a week while he is working on it,and when he needs to move it,he thinks something is wrong because it doesn't start right away. Told me " I didn't want to because I was scared of a backfire and fire,but I had to use the choke and pump the hell out of it to get it to start!"  No doubt while pumping the hell out of a  bone dry carb before even turning the switch on.

 

He had a regular commercial repair shop before getting into restorations,and most of the restorations he does is with cars from the mid-60's and newer. Even if they don't have FI,they still have automatic chokes and 12 volt batteries that spin the engines fast enough to pump fuel quickly.

 

And I have a confession to make. If the car sits for a week or so without being driven,I catch myself pumping the hell out of a dry carb before spinning the engine over even though I KNOW it is a waste of time. I guess I should convert it over to 12 volt,but I really don't want to.

[Dan Hiebert]

Ditto on the aforementioned advice.  I have the same issue with our D24, although not as bad since moving up north.  When we lived in the southwest, sometimes it was so hot and dry the carb bowl would dry out in just a day, no matter how good the gaskets and seals were.  I wouldn't even call it an "issue", just normal for these old carbureted cars. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

On my Chrysler eight cylinder cars they act just the same...

I crank em over for 15+ seconds.... then get out and do something else for 5 minutes to let the fuel continue to rise up and flow into the carb...

get back in ...pump the throttle five or six times and start it.

This has worked on my Straight 8 cars for years.

Especially the 2 BBL NewYorker.

[jeffsunzeri]

11 hours ago, olefre said:

My 48 Chrysler New Yorker conv. is hard to start when not beeing started for several days.

I have to run the starter for a long time before it starts up. When started recently it starts up really easy, and also runs very nice and stable.

I have replace the choke, but it made no difference. 

When starting I press the pedal to the floor once, and then run the starter. Is this the right procedure?

 

Any input for where to start troubleshooting is appreciated!

 

I believe the original owners manual states that for normal weather, cold starts, depress the accelerator to the floor 3 times and hold it to the floor for the count of 3. Release the pedal and crank.

 

If fuel is draining from the carb over the span of 2-5 days, then the check valve in the fuel pump may be suspect.

As others have stated, if left to sit for more than a few days, more accelerator pumping may be in order. Just add the 3-count at the end before cranking.

 

[stan's52]

I had a 49 New Yorker back around early 60's. I had to make sure the choke was fully closed before it started after sitting. Another car I wish I had kept, and not let Dad take it to the scrapper. Back then it was just another old car. Stan

[Dodgeb4ya]

Here's a rebuilt fuel pump for the eight...they are costly when found as shown here!!!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-FUEL-PUMP-590-1939-50-8-CYL/232948079472?hash=item363cc99b70:g:SQwAAOSw01JbffHN................This guy is a hoser though.

All Chrysler straight eight parts are hard to find and expensive.

Edited October 3, 2018 by Dodgeb4ya

[olefre]

Thanks all for infomative advice!

I understand I just need to be more patient, and use the procedure of gas pedal to the floor.

Still, during winter I will check all components in the fuelsystem (pump, filter, carb) and also the ignition system.

I already changed the battery.

Ole

 

[maok]

You could also just spray some 'start ya bastard' down the carb.

[9 foot box]

  My procedure is to pull the choke out a half inch, pump the throttle twice and push the plunger to starter. It's been working every time for years. I am able to buy premium though. It surprises me that so many have a low or even a dry fuel bowl in such a short time. But, Olefre's car probably doesn't have a manual choke. When you pump the throttle with a cold engine, your choke should close. It starts and warms the unit on the manifold, lightening tension, and opening the choke. I think these engines need a certain amount of choke upon start up. The thermal ones being harder to adjust, for that just right start up and not too rich.Thats my 2cents. Whats the manual say?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[John Norlien]

If my 54 Plymouth has been sitting for more than a week, I will loosen the wing nut on top the air cleaner and put about a tablespoon of gas in the depression in the ari cleaner and then go turn the key. Starts right up. I worry about what the oil is doing during that time.

[captden29]

so John, if you loosen the wing nut on the air cleaner the gas you put in there goes directly into the carb? none goes into the oil bath area? i always take the whole air cleaner off to do the same thing.   capt den

[captden29]

my car has sat for 3 weeks due to the hurricane. i tried the wingnut thing and the car started very fast.   thanks. now back to installing new carpet.   captden

[kencombs]

I know this is heresy to purists/restorers but for a driver, an electric pump will prevent those issues.

 

Install near the  fuel tank, out of sight.  Wire to a hidden switch us.nder the dash and only use to prime the system after disuse for several days.  Near instant starts.

 

6v pumps aren't common, but can be found.

[desoto1939]

The 6v electric fuel  pumps are very common and are listed on ebay all the time and the run around 40-50 dollars. The best backup insurance for any antique car or truck owner that has a driver car and not a show car.  AACA permits the use of electric fuel pumps on cars up to 1948 so long as they are done in a professional manner and are not in plan view of the judge so they should be installed on the frame member near the gas tank.  These pumps are setup to push the gas and not pull the gas like the mechanical FP that is on the engine  block.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Dartgame]

I do like John above, except I take a couple ounces of gas and pour it carefully down the vent tube to get gas into the float bowl. I only have to do this when the car sits for a week or so. My Darts have the same issue, dump some gas in the float bowl and voila ! Instant start.

 

The problem is the gasoline today is so volatile and has ethanol in it, it evaporates in no time. Even worse is winter gas - it has butane in it, yes butane. 

 

Before storing for the winter I use stable in the gas tank, and I spray penetrating oil into the carb and if possible down the top into the accelerator pump. A lot of accelerator pumps use leather instead of neoprene and will dry out, light oil will help them live until ready for use again.