Hound dog hauler

[Los_Control]

It has been running not as well as I would like ....starts easy but kinda back fires through the carb if try to give it to much throttle when cold .... kinda sounds like it is not running on all 6 .... sounds better when warmed up.

 

To be fair, I basically got it running in 2018 ... I did a lot of work on the cooling system, it just seemed to run fine and never messed with tuneup again ..... Now is the time for that I figure.

 

First thing I noticed is the (New in 2018) rotor no longer fits tight, I can rotate it at least a 1/8" either way before it moves the distributor shaft. .... no idea what that converts to degrees in timing.

The plugs were a mix between sooty & oily .... I put a lot of oil in the cylinders .... never changed the plugs.

Also the plug gap was closed on two plugs, to narrow on the rest .... no idea what happened there.

 

 

When I first started the engine the compression was 115  60  75  85  75  90

I checked it awhile back and was better ..... Now it is 125 85 125 100 120 110 ..... best it has ever been.

I would like to see #2 get better, still hoping it will improve with driving .... I dunno though.

Maybe I should drop the pan and pull the head to see whats going on .... would delay the project even longer though  

Think I will just keep pushing on with a good tune up and get the truck on the road driving ..... deal with the engine later.

 

I got the brake light switch in ..... I still need to order a assortment of wire connectors, have some but not enough.

Need new bulbs for the dash lights ..... should have everything needed to complete wiring.

 

Been plugging away on the bed ..... paint is slow to dry this time of year.

I had some 18 gauge metal I made a cap for the end of the exposed plywood ... I guess it is just me, I think I would want a cap even if I was using hardwood planks. .... Just seems like a good idea.

 

 

Hope the next couple of days to have the bed all buttoned up ..... just out of room with everything pulled apart and all the fasteners sorted and ready to go .... the front end scattered all around ..... no room to do anything 

 

Still plugging away at it though  

[Los_Control]

Random questions from a mad man!

 

Why does my engine run so bad?

It has slowly been getting this way, I figure as long as just driving in the driveway to move it around ... was never this bad though.

I recently went through the distributor, expected I would find a problem there.

I installed new plugs, the old ones were nasty.

The wires are good I have replaced them .... pulling 1 by1 really ashamed can barely notice a difference.

 

It starts good cold or warmed up, If I apply gas too fast it will start backfiring through the carburetor or just die.

It will eventually get to 3k rpm as long as you apply gas slowly.

 

I thought I put a new cap on it in 2018, pretty sure now I did not and it does show wear ... the spark from rotor would need to jump a little. ..... New cap will be here tomorrow.

 

I'm guessing it might be some blockage in the new carb .... It has been running off of a open gas can for a few years.

Easy to get dirt & bugs into the fuel system.

 

But the backfiring through the carb makes me think ignition?

 

Here is a video of it running, I have it in gear and warming up the oil in the trans.rear end to change it.

https://rumble.com/v469dpr-running-rough.html

[Dave72dt]

Is the accelerator pump working?  Vacuum advance?

[kencombs]

Points spring?  Condenser?  Accelerator pump?   First things that come to mind.    Since it isn't being driven, maybe sticky valves, especially if it was started with old gas in it.

[Los_Control]

I'm not sure about the vacuum advance. The carb I bought rebuilt from Rockauto and it was working fine.

 

My biggest issue it seems is at a steady rpm you can really tell the problem.

I have turned in the idle screw and it is running in 2nd gear at about 18 mph.

Not sure how well you can hear it in the video, it just keeps dancing in and out with rpm changing.

Like a couple dead cylinders coming and going but not consistently the same cylinders?

I'm thinking neither accelerator pump or vacuum advance would cause changing rpm at a steady speed.

 

I took a picture of the inside of the cap, we can see the shiny metal like a step at the bottom of the electrodes .... I'm thinking that is wear .... worn even, but still worn. ..... I think a new cap is needed, but not going to fix the problem ... unless it is cracked.

 

It ran good but slowly & gradually started to run this way.

So the new rotor, condenser,points,plugs have made no difference. Wires were new in 2018.

Only thing left spark related could be the coil?

 

I am ready to switch it to 12 volt. Will include new coil and a ballast resistor ... Just do not want to change too much at once then try to troubleshoot things.

 

Unless it is the cap, will know tomorrow.  I'm heading towards fuel related .... To me it feels like spark, I guess it could be a plugged carb.

 

I do have the original carburetor. It ran ok but the accelerator pump was not working.

I ordered a rebuild kit for it and went through it. Same time I bought a rebuilt carb from Rockauto and installed it.

So the original carb I sprayed it down with oil and wrapped it up in the packaging the new carb came in and set it on the shelf.

 

Just driving me nuts, I would think it would be simple to diagnose. Either a new cap tomorrow fixes it. Or I will bolt on the other carburetor ..... short of that I'm at a loss .... except for the coil maybe.

Open to other suggestions. .... Not bad gas, I share the same 2 gallon can to fill up my yard equipment so it never gets old.

[Dave72dt]

You should be off the idle circuit at that rpm.  With the engine off and air cleaner removed, you should be able to see a stream of gas shoot into the carb as you crack the throttle.  That should be an immediate shot of gas, not a delayed shot.  You can put a timing light on any of the plug wires and watch for a consistent flash or on the coil wire.  Spray a little brake cleaner around the base of the carb to see if rpm changes, would indicate vacuum leak.  Be cautious spraying around the manifold gasket. A fire extinguisher in place would be a good suggestion if you choose to do that.

 

Your new cap will also have that little metal step on the electrodes.  That's normal.  You look more at the side of the electrodes.  That's where the arcing from the rotor eats the electrode away and corrosion can occur.

[kencombs]

I don't think accelerator either.  Surging at a constant throttle position with no load sounds like ignition to me.  Vacuum advance not likely to be the cause of acceleration lag as it isn't even involved at that point.

 

Did it do this before the new condenser was installed?   I doubt every new one until proven good.

 

Loose mechanical advance can cause weird things.  How does it look with a timing light on it?

 

actual timing setting is not important, just watch for intermittent flash and/or the mark moving.

Edited January 11 by kencombs

[Los_Control]

29 minutes ago, kencombs said:

Surging at a constant throttle position with no load sounds like ignition to me. 

This is my thought also .... and it did run like this before I changed anything. I also doubt all new condensers.

So changing points, condenser, rotor, plugs .... it runs exactly like it did. Something is obviously worn out or broken.

Possibly a bad cap could cause it. I agree with @Dave72dt my cap does not look that bad, I assume it is why I never bothered to change it before ..... maybe it has a hair line crack and throwing spark around.

41 minutes ago, kencombs said:

actual timing setting is not important, just watch for intermittent flash and/or the mark moving.

My theory on current timing. ... I have the original hard line going from distributor to carburetor. Just drop the distributor in and let it relax, will be where it was before. Unless I forcefully rotate the distributor.

 

My dirty little secret about my timing light ..... I bought it from the Good will for $5.

Is a Actron inductive DC powered timing light brand new in the box and never opened. .... 6 years later the box has still never been opened. I plan to use a vacuum gauge to time it .... would be a good idea to hookup the timing light and watch the consistency of the spark/timing.

 

Napa did not have the cap in stock, they did have it in the warehouse and will be in town in the morning.

[Dave72dt]

The accelerator pump may be the cause of the poor acceleration and why it brings up the rpm so slowly.  Vacuum advance diaphragm may be leaking or torn, again leaning the engine out, causing the misfires.  Since you have one, what's the vacuum gauge reading? The point is to start testing, verify what is correct and known good instead of just throwing parts at it.

[Los_Control]

While one may call it the shotgun approach or throwing parts at it ..... One goal I hope to accomplish here is to have a complete set of known good working used spares, in case of a roadside breakdown. points, plugs, cap, rotor, condenser.

I will keep them stored under the seat along with needed tools to change them if needed. I just have little faith in modern replacement parts.

 

Since I do not have a spare cap, I need one to complete my set of used parts .... If it turns out that it is the problem.

Well then I will throw the old one in the trash, and will still need to buy another just to complete my set of spares.

 

As a old retired carpenter, is hard for me to get the correct mechanical terms out. I'm more apt to say "It revs up lickity split" Or I say the engine keeps dancing in and out with rpm changing. Like a couple dead cylinders coming and going.

 

Then a mechanic jumps in and says " Surging at a constant throttle position with no load "

I'm jumping up and down yeah yeah yeah that's what I just said.

 

Sooo, Surging at a constant throttle position with no load ....accelerator pump is not in play.

What about the vacuum advance? Would that be a constant vacuum leak and cause this issue?

Could I just plug the port at the carburetor to test if the condition changes?

 

And as far as installing my rebuilt spare carburetor to test with. I think it would be nice to know if my work was satisfactory and it actually does work if I ever do need it.

To be honest, my new rebuilt carb I bought in 2018 has not led a sheltered life. Would be a good idea to go through it before actually driving the truck on the road.

The photo is from a few years ago, you can see my fuel tank sitting on the bumper and same tank I use today.

I really would not be surprised if it has a clogged passage inside, and can be causing the lean condition.

So again I'm just calling it maintenance and not throwing parts at it.

 

At least I did have the air cleaner on it, and where it is parked is where it will spend most of its time when not being driven.

 

The cap is here, going to go pick it up and try it.

 

 

[kencombs]

Personally I would discount the vacuum advance as a source of these symptoms.   My reasoning is this:   If it is leaking air the idle speed and idle mixture screws could be adjusted to compensate.  Once done it's done as it would be a fixed leak, not variable.  And  that is a tiny orifice and cannot admit much air as the port for it is above the throttle blades.  There is no, or very little,  vacuum applied to it at idle.  But, plugging the port at the carb is a great way to eliminate that as a cause.

 

But the mechanical advance could very well be drifting if badly worn or springs broken.

 

Have you checked the points spring?   Loose, broken or misplaced spring there can also cause issues. 

 

But putting the timing light on it and watching the flash and pointer movement would be my first move.

[Rodney_Hamon]

I think it’s the carb and the gas myself.  And I would check that coil wire.  I still can’t believe a few years back my 64 1/2 mustang wouldn’t start and I had it towed to the nearest shop. They replaced the coil wire. Who woulda thunk ?!?  I also learned my lesson with accelerator pumps and sticky inlet valve 

[Los_Control]

I'm in the process of changing the carb now. It was a interesting day.

I picked up the new cap and it was wrong, does not fit.

 

I decided to push forward and change the carb, I really think my other one needs cleaned.

 

Once changed I now have a no start issue with no spark .... I was checking for spark and it did start.

I just used a spare plug hooked up to #1 plug wire and it started on 5 cylinders. .... I thought the light orange spark was pretty poor.

 

So now I sit with no spark .... The new cap will be in next week sometime .... I do not think it is the cap.

Good possibility my new condenser just failed .... I do have a known working spare to try.

I'm kinda leaning as coil went out ..... I will check condenser first.

 

I have been looking at a issue that gradually got worse and worse .... now the spark has failed I have someplace to look.

 

The spring on the points is interesting ..... I had to modify the new points.

If you look in the red circle, I had to trim off 1/4" and then make  new slot to mount the wires.

The body of the points was the same and bolted in perfectly .... just the points spring was too long and needed trimming to fit.

 

I think it is fine, and it ran exactly the same when I started the engine. .... I also needed to trim down the bracket for the condenser and relocate the mounting screw .... so it would fit the distributor.

 

While not ideal, I do not think these minor changes would affect the way it runs. .... It did start up and run perfectly crappy just like it did before I changed them. .... Made zero difference changing the points/condenser.  Ran just the same.

 

Now I'm starting to wonder if the coil has gone bad. ...... I hate to get too involved changing parts.

I'm thinking I will now install the new 12 volt coil & ballast resistor plus wire the 12 volt charging system.

 

I do have a 12 volt battery installed, it is time to make everything correct and let the chips lie where they will.

 

Sigh I hate changing too many things at once ....

 

 

 

 

[Merle Coggins]

If you had to modify the points spring to make it fit, you probably don't have it installed correctly. One time I didn't get the points spring anchored properly and the copper strap was the only thing making tension for the points. It would start and idle just fine, but when I tried to drive it, it would sputter and loose power at higher RPM. I went back and retraced my steps and discovered my mistake on the points spring. After correcting that it ran great again. Without a properly installed spring the points will bounce at higher RPM and greatly effect the dwell, and ignition timing. 

[Los_Control]

Thanks @Merle Coggins I agree with what you say.

I was really hesitant to trim the spring, just get the correct one and install it.

 

I did examine and compare closely .... the points are identical except the length of the spring.

So after trimming the spring, side by side they are identical. I'm thinking it will be fine.

You can see from the photo the points adjustment screw and mounting screw are exactly where they need to be

 

I'm still thinking it is possible I have a cracked cap or plugged passage in the carb so both will be addressed.

 

I also woke up at 2:00AM and thought to myself, I never connected the power wire from the coil to the distributor when I installed it yesterday ..... It was getting late and really was just trying to wrap things up for the day and forgot.

Naturally I had no spark to the plugs. .... I pulled the distributor back out so I could write down the number for ordering parts in the future.

[Panhead]

Funny how those things to you in the middle of the night. The mind never stops. 
 

[Panhead]

Come to you

[Los_Control]

I think it is possible that a black truck will always look dirty 

 

Kinda got through the bad weather and slowly getting back at it.

While I still need to make it run again after I did a tune up .... ?

Just too many pieces lying around and tripping over them, so I'm concentrating on putting the bed back together.

Just amazing how much dust and dirt has collected on it since I painted it, it needs a bath bad.

I got the bed sides on yesterday, today I was working on the tail gate. Then I had to do some work on the running boards to get them ready to install. .... Cold wet and raining today, not a lot done.

 

 I have a tail gate now ... I'm excited as it is the first time it has been on the truck since I've owned it.

 

 

Looking forward to getting everything locked down .... still in the stage of loose bolts so can move things around for adjustment.

 

I have been putting off this last stage of paint forever ..... I just dont want to do it!!!!

I need to spend two days under the truck to grind and clean then apply ospho rust converter to the floor of the cab, then seam sealer on the welds from the new floor I installed, then paint. Life sucks  

 

I just cant go any further til it is done, the running boards will be in my way .... I want the new gas tank installed before I finish my tuneup .... I've waited as long as I possibly can, I just have to do it before going forward.

 

 

[Los_Control]

I spent some time getting it to run again. Turns out the new condenser I installed was DOA.

I put the old one back in and it fired right up. It starts really fast and runs smooth through acceleration.

@Rodney_Hamonwas correct in suggesting fuel .... they get the door prize and is in the mail    

 

Nice to know the carb I went through and put on the shelf works fine. The accelerator pump is not working properly.

I remember it looked pretty good and was leather or whatever they were made out of.  So I soaked it in oil then reused it.

I still have a new accelerator pump in a kit ..... someday will get to it.

 

 

Because of the "yet another bad condenser" I'm going to install the external condenser I picked up a few years ago.

Mount it on the coil bracket and wire it to the coil instead of internal to the points.

 

Nothing is ever easy, the coil was fatter then the one I removed. I had to cut the bracket off and spread  it out and weld it back on, then paint .... so will have it installed today ..... I expect it to work just fine.

I can leave the original working condenser mounted, just disconnect it from the points .... if the wire stays out of the way?

I will still have a spare condenser in the truck if needed, just need to hook it up.

[Los_Control]

Been awhile since I did a update ....Life just gets in the way and no time to play.

 

Seems where I left it I just added the external condenser and switched to 12V with ballast resistor & coil .... was still having random run issues.

Eventually got bad enough and I found the insulation on the distributor was failing and was getting 12V to the distributor housing .... causing issues.

So instead of correcting the issue, am moving forward with the /6 electronic ignition conversion.

Think tomorrow will order a suitable donor for the conversion.

 

 

While I have done some preliminary work on the interior, nothing is finished .... so now everything comes apart to paint the interior of the cab, then put it back together with each piece being finished and roadworthy .

I have been working on this steering wheel all day, I have a bearing splitter on it and been applying pressure to it all day long.

Have not been able to get it to budge. ..... I have a 16" pipe on the 1/2" drive ratchet for leverage  .... lots of pressure on it.

Going to let it soak over night with pressure on it .... maybe tomorrow it will pop loose.

 

All the welding is done, has spray paint on everything to keep away rust, white powder is a rust converter that cleans up ...

I'm so glad I made the seat base removable, is so easy to lay on the floor and work under the dash .... I hope to have this area all cleaned up and painted in the next few weeks.

 

I ordered the PC-7 product to rebuild the steering wheel, also a decent 12 circuit marine fuse box for wiring ... a glove box insert ... hope to get the distributor ordered tomorrow .... I'm painting the interior gloss black and will need to get some paint for that ..... long ways to go yet, but fun to be back working on it again.

[Los_Control]

Wow, I did not expect this battle .... I got busy and it sat for a couple days, got back at it today and I got the steering wheel to pop loose.

 

Sure I kept the nut on to save the threads .... The column has a center hole and the tool nipple is slightly larger ... While pulling the wheel loose, I forced the tool into the column and spent a few hours trying to remove it.

The nut still threads on the shaft, the nut slides over the threads on the tool .... no damage yet and trying to avoid damage ... this thing is stuck good  .... lot of coulda shoulda would have .... too late for that now.

 

Think I finally found a fuse block to make me happy.

I bought a aftermarket wire harness but hated the fuse block and refuse to use it.

 

 

This fuse box is made for marine use, 12 circuits, all SS connections, water tight to a point. Very simple and easy to work

With. ..... Just a nice box ..... Now where to put it?. I know they do not belong in the engine compartment.

Honestly this is a really convenient place to work on one .... I picture a really clean wiring harness with it right here.

 

Under the dash when I want to add a circuit or change a fuse .... what a pita to work on it.

Think I'm convinced, I'm installing it here .... my truck, building it my way.

 

Also working on the 12V electronic distributor conversion .... naturally the first distributor ordered was wrong.

I have a 2nd one on the way .... Tuesday next week to be delivered. I hope it is correct.

 

Tomorrow will be another day .... the wheel is coming off one way or the other .... then I can continue making progress.

Always some sort of stumble stones in the path.

 

[9 foot box]

   Put a half inch bolt with a centering hole in the head in the column, so the tension bolt doesn’t wander to the side. I made this, that worked well. It has a 1.550” hole in the center. It’s two forked plates that fit together left and right. I have a 10” lathe and four jaw chuck to bore the hole so it was a perfect fit to the column and the bottom of the steering wheel. No damage to the steering wheel or threads with my puller and a center bolt. 
 

[Los_Control]

The bearing splitter worked fine to pull the wheel ... no damage to nut or threads.

Now the tool is stuck in the center of the column .... the trick is to remove it without causing any damage.

 

 

A slide hammer would be ideal, mine is too tall the roof gets in the way.

 

 

I have another idea with a chain and a heavy weight to pop it loose ....

Yesterday I tried knocking the tool loose moving it back and forth, put a impact on it and spun it around ... it moves but just wont pull out ..... I'll get it eventually.

 

We ought to start a new off topic thread with "bonehead moves of the day" this one would qualify.

[Young Ed]

Car craft used to have a column called stupid gear head stories. It was one of my favorites. 

 

On my 47 I didn't put the nut on far enough and managed to mess up the top few threads on the steering shaft. There is probably an entire page of my build thread devoted to fixing that!

[Dave72dt]

Probably swedged a bit right at the top.  Put some heat on the top of the shaft and try again.