$450 to Paint a Set of Wheels?!

[FlashBuddy]

 

Hoping to shoot color later today. Should I finish with a clear coat, or just cut, polish and wax? ...and how long should I let them sit before I mount the tires?

Edited August 26, 2018 by FlashBuddy

[Plymouthy Adams]

only if you basecoat  color.......else if using a single stage enamel or urethane....I would stick with regular gloss the finish does provide

[kencombs]

2 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

only if you basecoat  color.......else if using a single stage enamel or urethane....I would stick with regular gloss the finish does provide

 

Agree with this.  Single stage doesn't need the extra protection, and I just don't like the 'plastic' shine of clearcoat on older vehicles

[Dave72dt]

If using an enamel, you may want to add a gloss hardener to it.  It'll help with the cure time and adds some UV protection.

[FlashBuddy]

Got some Delfleet Essential HS (whatever that stands for) Polyurethane Single Stage, hardener and slow activator. Hope it goes on as smooth as butter.

Edited August 27, 2018 by FlashBuddy

[John-T-53]

On ‎8‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 3:28 PM, FlashBuddy said:

 

Can't even see the green or blue, ergo what kind of confidence can one have in any of the other colors.

 

Absolutely No confidence if looking at a computer screen, or a print of a scan or color copy. The only way is to have the original chips in hand, and I'll bet that these are as true to color as  when they were new, unless exposed to the sun for a few decades. If faded, a little rubbing compound would easily expose a fresh layer. But even then, the new color match is only as good as the knowledge and skill of the person making the new batch. You can still get original paint chips from vendors on ebay, at swap meets, or through ads in Hemmings.

 

 

[ggdad1951]

13 hours ago, John-T-53 said:

 

Absolutely No confidence if looking at a computer screen, or a print of a scan or color copy. The only way is to have the original chips in hand, and I'll bet that these are as true to color as  when they were new, unless exposed to the sun for a few decades. If faded, a little rubbing compound would easily expose a fresh layer. But even then, the new color match is only as good as the knowledge and skill of the person making the new batch. You can still get original paint chips from vendors on ebay, at swap meets, or through ads in Hemmings.

 

 

 

I've got a few of the old paint chip cards...they DON'T hold color IMO...they shift a bit with time.

[R&D Dodge]

Delfleet is an excellent product.  This product is very similar to the old Imron polyurethane products.  Keep it off your skin and wear good mask...  Instead of getting to worked up about the pressure at the comp. etc, paint your garbage can first.  I use an old Sata Jet and typically go by sound and flow.  I always paint something, usually it is my garbage can.  I test the flow and how much I can apply prior to it sagging etc.  HS is a high solids paint, I found that trying to lay down the traditional tack coat, then following up with two additional coats left me with much more orange peel, which is typical if premature evaporation of thinner occurs, or low air pressure at cap when using this product.  I had much better results applying a heavy coat, then applying a second coat and cranked up the air until it flowed better.  It does not flow like an acrylic or other single stage products such as Sikkens or thin as heck Dupont and waterbase coatings.  it is a very good quality high solids paint, you can cut it by adding additional esx 520 as well, but I dont.  I like this product but have heard much negative about it.  I painted a 75 Land Cruiser and I used more pressure than 35 psi, I set my stuff at the recommended psi but struggled when I first started.  The wetter you can get it just before it runs.. the better it lays down..  The Epox you are using is also an industrial coating typically used as a bare metal prep. It is not intended as a sanding primer, wet sanding works best to avoid clogging if you want to sand.  A sanding primer is typically used after epoxy sealing for light filling and fairing.  The Delfleet is an excellent choice as opposed to base / clear being the price of good paint has tripled in price as of recent, unless one is looking to achieve show quality finish.  IMHO... Years ago I used a lot of Imron which was also a high solids paint and grew to like it much more than acrylics and synthetics.  It is much cheaper than base / clear two stage and strong as heck.  We use to paint our double bottom semis.  Stone hits to the fibreglass would actually dent the surface, acrylic would flake right off as would lacquer.  Take your time and experiment prior to painting is what I would try.  Also, the day I picked up a trouble light and started painting while holding a light to see the "flip" was the day the jobs started coming around.  Good luck to you!

[FlashBuddy]

I think I'm done. How long should I wait before I can mount the tires?

[48Dodger]

Your mix has a hardener in it....but since you're still new at this, and I didn't check your mix personally, I would suggest you let it dry a few days.

Check the "softness" on an area the tire will cover. If you can't scratch or dent it with your finger nails, it was mixed right and will be hard enough for  tire mounting.

Give them some time in the sun, to gas'em off completely. If the chemicals were not mixed right, the paint will be soft, and possibly needing the process to be repeated.

I honestly don't think this will happen, but thought I'd mention it.

 

48D 

Edited September 1, 2018 by 48Dodger

[FlashBuddy]

Thanks! I think I got it right and I've got them baking in the back of my truck under the black tonneau cover - a real oven in there when its 90+ degrees outside.

 

I found a set of 215/75R16 tires at Pep Boys locally at ~$78/tire. I also found that two wheels are half inch wider than the others. Seems nothing can be simple about this

[JBNeal]

additional information - Dodge Rim Differences 

Edited October 17, 2019 by JBNeal
revised link