NickPickToo Posted December 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2019 Question: There is a broad range in pricing for radiators out on E-bay from just under $200 to about $1000. radiators on other sites are typically more expensive. Not even sure I'll need a new radiator yet till we test the one we have, but outside of fit, what should I be aware of if we go to buy one. I suspect the price difference comes with a quality difference too? Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted December 17, 2019 Report Share Posted December 17, 2019 Hey nick, As far as a new rad, I remember something about a flow rate, but I can't remember the rate for our rads. As far as your original, I would leak check it now and see if it holds water. Just plug the ports fill it up and see if it holds water for a day or two. When you let the water out (assuming it does not leak) check the flow rate by using the manual to check for a clogged radiator (page 75 para, 4 fig 19 in the Plymouth manual). Then inspect for scale and limestone and rust in the rad. If it has some this is the cleaning method I used. I used about a gallon of CLR and a gallon of hot water and let the rad soak for about 45 min to an hour, rotating the rad from the front to the back then top then bottom and then side to side. Got a lot of crud out of the rad. Flushed it out and then used dawn dish washing soap and water (recommended by the rad shop) and soaked it for a couple of days. Temp runs at 175 degrees now and it only cost me about 5 bucks for the stuff from dollar tree. It's been working fine now for over 6 years since I did that. Remember these old cars use a non-pressure cooling system so no pressure on the rad or hoses. Joe Lee 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted December 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2019 Question: We will likely have engine and trans mounted into the chassis mid next week, but still a lot of work to do on body before we put it back on and wire everything up. What would be the minimum amount of wiring needed to get the engine to start and run? It will be a 12 volt convert so we are thinking of course plugs to distributor to solenoid to battery. battery to starter. Will I need to wire up the alternator to get it started? Anything else? For cooling we will block off anything except the engine to radiator related flow. Anything else to worry about? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted December 19, 2019 Report Share Posted December 19, 2019 don't need the alternator. hot wire from bat to coil, hot to starter solenoid, and ground. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted December 19, 2019 Report Share Posted December 19, 2019 I bought a Champion radiator from eBay three or four years ago and it has been trouble free, price was $215 shipped. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted December 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2019 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted December 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2019 (edited) Dad says if I don't get this running he's going to varnish the wood stand and make this engine an end table in the man cave, next to the front seat we upholstered last year, with the dash turned into a novelty entertainment center ? Transmission and bell housing ready too! I noticed the thermostat housing is not original and someone deleted the w.p. bypass. Were blocking those off when we try to get this running, but researching how to fix it back as well. Edited December 20, 2019 by NickPickToo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 20, 2019 Report Share Posted December 20, 2019 with the carbs mounted the way you have them you going to be doing some fancy plumbing of the fuel lines... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted December 21, 2019 Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 (edited) Nick, Bernbaum has the thermostat housing and bypass elbow: https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-cooling.aspx Housing; J-135 ($90...ouch....maybe someone can send you a used one!) Elbow; J-160 (you want a new one, these things tend to clog, mine crumbled when I removed it) Here is how if fits together on my '48 (photo taken before new battery cables): The engine looks great! Edited December 21, 2019 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted December 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: with the carbs mounted the way you have them you going to be doing some fancy plumbing of the fuel lines... Carbs aren't permanently mounted, just setting there for photo op. Suggestions? Is it a matter of simply flipping them or is there a better way Edited December 21, 2019 by NickPickToo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted December 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 (edited) 10 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said: The engine looks great! Thanks, The manifolds were a bear to mount. Those are on with coper gasket spray and I hope they never have to come off. Edited December 21, 2019 by NickPickToo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted December 21, 2019 Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 (edited) Be sure you attach the generator bracket to the water pump before you add coolant.....that bolt extends into the water jacket. You will need to remove the fan and pulley to get that bolt out. Or......you could do what I did after painting myself into this corner.....cut a notch in the bracket hole so it can be installed without removing the bolt. The bracket is under compression so a notch will not compromise its function. P.S. I inserted a photo in my earlier post showing the thermostat housing and elbow. Edited December 21, 2019 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted December 21, 2019 Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 Motor is almost to the point of being too good looking ( close call) to be mounting under a hood and surrounded by fenders! ? Maybe you should listen to dad and put it in the man cave , put some Christmas lights on it. Go easy on tinsel, it seems to get everywhere. find a good used motor to put in the car? ? Merry Christmas to you! DJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted December 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 13 minutes ago, DJ194950 said: Motor is almost to the point of being too good looking ( close call) to be mounting under a hood and surrounded by fenders! ? Maybe you should listen to dad and put it in the man cave , put some Christmas lights on it. Go easy on tinsel, it seems to get everywhere. find a good used motor to put in the car? ? Merry Christmas to you! DJ I know right, So by the time we fab heat shields and and put the front clip back on, we'll be the only ones who can see this piece of industrial art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonJack Posted December 21, 2019 Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 16 hours ago, NickPickToo said: Dad says if I don't get this running he's going to varnish the wood stand and make this engine an end table in the man cave, next to the front seat we upholstered last year, with the dash turned into a novelty entertainment center ? Transmission and bell housing ready too! I noticed the thermostat housing is not original and someone deleted the w.p. bypass. Were blocking those off when we try to get this running, but researching how to fix it back as well. If your car is a Deluxe, that is the correct thermostat housing. According to the service manual only Special Deluxe had the the by-pass housing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted December 21, 2019 Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 20 hours ago, NickPickToo said: Dad says if I don't get this running he's going to varnish the wood stand and make this engine an end table in the man cave, next to the front seat we upholstered last year, with the dash turned into a novelty entertainment center ? Transmission and bell housing ready too! I noticed the thermostat housing is not original and someone deleted the w.p. bypass. Were blocking those off when we try to get this running, but researching how to fix it back as well. Are you sure it’s not an Internal Bypass engine? Is there a small bump on the front of the head, just behind the water pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted December 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 5 hours ago, YukonJack said: If your car is a Deluxe, that is the correct thermostat housing. According to the service manual only Special Deluxe had the the by-pass housing. It's hard to go by deluxe or super deluxe as this engine came out of a '55 P26. When we got it, the small house on the water pump went to the heater and the pipe at the back of the head, passenger side also went to the heater. There is also a whole on the side of the head, diver side that had a fitting but the fitting was completely clogged and no hose on it. 2 hours ago, Merle Coggins said: Are you sure it’s not an Internal Bypass engine? Is there a small bump on the front of the head, just behind the water pump? Why yes, there is small bump on the front just behind the water pump. What should I make of that? If I change out the thermostat housing and add the elbow, will it change anything negatively? Will it change the type of thermostat I have to buy? As far as the heater goes, not sure yet we will put the original back in. We may upgrade to heat and cooling. How well did these old heaters work on really cold days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted December 21, 2019 Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 The bump indicates that you have an internal bypass head, and assuming that the block matches, your engine is equipped with an internal thermostat bypass circuit. As such your thermostat and housing are correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted December 22, 2019 Report Share Posted December 22, 2019 (edited) Am I correct in assuming the only reason for a bypass is to get the heater up to temp quicker? Nick, in regard to your question about the heaters in our old cars.....mine has an under-dash heater that I assume was a dealer install. It has a variable speed fan (6v) and does an excellent job of heating the interior. I suspect it would make the front seat passenger uncomfortable when running wild open. I would appreciate some of our experienced members providing me background info on this particular heater. Edited December 22, 2019 by Sam Buchanan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooljunkie Posted December 22, 2019 Report Share Posted December 22, 2019 Bypass is to prevent overheatinG in the the thermostat sticks closed. Will also purge air as cooling system is filled. My 51 has a similar housing. its looking awesome! Like a piece of jewellery! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted December 22, 2019 Report Share Posted December 22, 2019 (edited) The purpose of the bypass circuit is to ensure that there is always a small amount of coolant flow within the block for even heat build up, and to get the coolant flowing past the thermostat so that it can sense the actual temperature. Edited December 22, 2019 by Merle Coggins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonJack Posted December 22, 2019 Report Share Posted December 22, 2019 15 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said: Am I correct in assuming the only reason for a bypass is to get the heater up to temp quicker? Nick, in regard to your question about the heaters in our old cars.....mine has an under-dash heater that I assume was a dealer install. It has a variable speed fan (6v) and does an excellent job of heating the interior. I suspect it would make the front seat passenger uncomfortable when running wild open. I would appreciate some of our experienced members providing me background info on this particular heater. Same heater I have in my 47. Looks like you are missing the attachments for the defroster hoses to the dash vents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted December 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2019 Now am starting to itch for that original heater. I guess we just need a resistor to bring the 12 back to 6 and then clean up the heater we inherited. It looks different than yours, but it matches the photos in the parts manual. Here is a picture from when I was in teardown mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted December 22, 2019 Report Share Posted December 22, 2019 3 hours ago, YukonJack said: Same heater I have in my 47. Looks like you are missing the attachments for the defroster hoses to the dash vents. Thank you! Can you take a photo for me or provide a link to a description of this heater? I can fabricate attachments and hoses, just wondering if there should be some sort of control or valve for the defrost outlet. I don't have any heater/defroster controls in the dash panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonJack Posted December 23, 2019 Report Share Posted December 23, 2019 There aren't any controls except the switch on the front. The 3 vents are open for heat and closed for defrost. Keep in mind you won't get the same amount of air flow to the defroster as a modern car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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