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My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe


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Posted (edited)

I reamed these with a Dremel sanding disk (250 grit) and then burnished (that's new vocabulary for me) it with the Dremel shaft with no attachments, so just the bare steel.  Also polished the shaft with 800 grit.  It made an amazing difference.  Wondering if coating the inside with beeswax will help reduce friction or just make it sticky.  Advice?    Oh and the Dremel is Mom's, so it's turning out her tools are way sicker than Dad's.

 

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Edited by NickPickToo
Posted

BTW Thinking beeswax because I found the following reference

 

Beeswax as lubricant As a somewhat oily substance, it can keep a hinge from creaking, loosen a frozen or rusty nut, or make a drawer slide in and out with ease. When applied to a metal piece, beeswax not only lubricates but also can act as a guard preserving the piece from the moist air around it.

Posted (edited)

 We used a reducer coupling, 3/4-16 (the axel shaft) to 5/8-18 (the slide hammer), and the rear axel shaft slid right out with one hit.  Somehow I think getting it back in will be the real trick.  

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Edited by NickPickToo
Posted (edited)

Another Question: Did anyone else think there should have been an outer seal on this shaft between the cup and the brake assembly plate?  not sure that metal ring on the brake plate qualifies as a seal.

Edited by NickPickToo
Posted
46 minutes ago, NickPickToo said:

Another Question: Did anyone else think there should have been an outer seal on this shaft between the cup and the brake assembly plate?  not sure that metal ring on the brake plate qualifies as a seal.

 

Illustration from the service manual showing the seal in the brake backing plate:

 

rear-axle-seal.jpg.c52ed813d2d9b5c022a20a4455bf61aa.jpg

Posted

That explains it.  It's there, but there is no sealing surface on mine.  Just raw metal.  The replacement seal is on its way so I guess I'll see if thats normal or just completely worn out here soon.

Posted

switched out the coupling to these claws to remove the rear axle inner seals. Took a little concentration to keep the claws in place while sliding the hammer. 

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Posted

For what it’s worth, I used HF 62960 Bearing puller attachment kit for my slide hammer to get those seals out of the axle tube. But this is part of the whole experience. Use what is available to You and make the best of it. You’re doing a great job .

Posted
13 hours ago, NickPickToo said:

Brakes ? Opps Looking at the photo again, I think I put the washers on wrong.

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I don't see the washers under the clips. Did you put them on the back side? I usually soak the felt washers in oil when I reassemble them to keep the pins lubed up.

Posted
33 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

And....I'm sure you put the drums on the correct sides.....   :)

 

Looking good!

Right hand threads on the right.  Left hand treads on the left.  ?

Posted
On 10/11/2019 at 10:01 PM, Plymouthy Adams said:

what happened to the wheel locating/hanger pin?...

Either Nichola's car was an exclusive addition released without the hanger for those discerning buyers that desired an upper arm work out when changing tires, or they broke off somewhere along the way.  None of the four hubs had them when Nicholas took delivery and, well, he can use the workouts for now. (lol)

Posted

usually when these are missing so are the original wheels....they get removed as they are in the way for often selected later modern wheels or alloys....not needed for sure...but with bolts they a plus...the Porsche has bolts also....no pins there either...

Posted
2 hours ago, NickPick'sCrew said:

Either Nichola's car was an exclusive addition released without the hanger for those discerning buyers that desired an upper arm work out when changing tires, or they broke off somewhere along the way.  None of the four hubs had them when Nicholas took delivery and, well, he can use the workouts for now. (lol)

get some bolts and cut the heads off. Then you can start the wheel with that holding it and remove it after a couple other lugs are started. Challenge might be finding the LH thread bolts to cut up

 

  • Like 1
Posted

while looking about for a LH wheel bolt for Mopar may be a problem, I do think that IH had similar and may be available searching that venue....maybe they live in an active farm community and have a good surviving tractor repair facility...

Posted

My truck is missing the locating pin and has newer wheels on it.

Such a minor detail, I have had the wheels on and off several times, Just a non issue. I would say yes they are handy to have, but maybe slow down the process by 10 seconds.

I would prefer to keep the pins if I had them, would not spend one minute thinking on how to replace them if not on there now.

Posted
3 hours ago, Young Ed said:

get some bolts and cut the heads off. Then you can start the wheel with that holding it and remove it after a couple other lugs are started. Challenge might be finding the LH thread bolts to cut up

 

Thanks for the suggestion.  Fortunately he still has the bolts from both front hubs.  PA, there is a robust tractor service network here.  BTW my four wheeled baby is a 1957 MF TE35 diesel version.

Posted
1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

My truck is missing the locating pin and has newer wheels on it.

Such a minor detail, I have had the wheels on and off several times, Just a non issue. I would say yes they are handy to have, but maybe slow down the process by 10 seconds.

I would prefer to keep the pins if I had them, would not spend one minute thinking on how to replace them if not on there now.

 

that is your truck and your option...but some folks may want a fix or an alternative...don't shoot those that provide answers/alternatives especially when it does not matter to you as you seem comfortable with yours missing.  On a wet roadside with rain pouring down many may say thank you I got that stud in place or a screw in hanger as they change a wheel....

Posted
4 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

 

that is your truck and your option...but some folks may want a fix or an alternative...don't shoot those that provide answers/alternatives especially when it does not matter to you as you seem comfortable with yours missing.  On a wet roadside with rain pouring down many may say thank you I got that stud in place or a screw in hanger as they change a wheel....

I am just stating my own experience, My first truck did have the pins, and it was a bit of a pain to get the small pin lined up with the hole and wheel over the hub.

This truck without the pins, you just need to line up one hole and get the bolt started, shove it on the hub and they all line up.

This could be because my center holes on the rims are the same size as the drums, they are self centering. If I had custom wheels with a larger center hole, still same procedure.

Start one lug and a little rotating the tire with your legs to start the second, Why I said it might take 10 seconds longer if searching for second hole.

 

The one bolt lined up with any hole on the drum is easier then searching for the pin and small hole on the wheel.  IMHO. When you try to spin the wheel to match the pin, the drum wants to spin also.

I just think the pins get in the way, more then they help .... I would only keep them because they are original.

 

I feel sorry for anyone changing a tire in the dark with rain and wind on the side of the road .... given the opportunity I would pull up diagonally behind them to run as block and then help with the tire change.  Hold a flashlight, or change the tire and have them hold the light.

 

Posted

Thanks both PA and LC for their input.  Los_Control, where in West Texas.  My grandparents lived and worked on the pipeline in the middle of nowhere but somewhere near the Pacos River and in sight of Guadalupe Peak.  There use to be a saddle and revolver on display in a small museum in Pacos that my grandmother donated that was given to her by one of the ranchers in the area.

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