New 1950 dodge Truck to me

[5027 steve]

Ok has anyone ever changed the rear end yoke ???? To a newer style with straps and clamps???? I have to get a new Driveshaft made and was wondering if that's possible.....Thanks Steve ...

[ggdad1951]

12 hours ago, 5027 steve said:

Really stupid question after I looked at my intake.....better question How do I delete a post?????

 

request it 

[5027 steve]

18 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

request it 

Thanks

[5027 steve]

First and foremost I have to introduce my sidekick and truck mechanic my grandson Braxton ....He is by my side in the garage every weekend helping "Papa" rebuild and restore Braxton truck "Lucy" Braxton says thumbs up to all of you helping "US" with my sometimes silly questions...

[5027 steve]

Now into our questions for the weekend:::: OK we tried to remove the driver side rear hub using a 3 jaw puller and then a slide hammer and it will not move at all .......I think I have bearings seized to the axle ....Now What?????? I'm at a loss........Thanks

[5027 steve]

Results of dry compression test

#1-88

#2-88

#3-88

#4-90

#5-88

#6-90

Engine gurus chime in please

[5027 steve]

Ok tank has no numbers and it only says "tanks" ......so I want to put a sending unit in it.....is it the hole closet in picture or the hole in the other side of the filler neck??????? Thanks

[DJ194950]

Looks to be a newer tanks made by "tanks inc."

 

See attached from their website tanks says their fuel level sender is a 5 bolt setup, so that is most answer.

 

 

5 Bolt Fuel Sending Unit.htm

[Desotodav]

So many questions Steve  Keep 'em coming!

 

Q1. The puller is your best chance with the rear hub. Some of them do get stuck on there hard. I haven't found one yet that my puller and a hammer couldn't remove. I'm thinking that you would have backed off the brakes with the adjuster nuts on the back of the backing plates. Try tapping the drum with the hammer some... but not too hard that you will distort or damage the drum! If that doesn't work... maybe a little heat or a more heavy duty drum puller.

Q2. 80-90 compression is alright. A new engine will push out closer to 120. Your readings are consistent between each cylinder so I reckon that should work fine.

Q3. Your gas tank looks like one from Tanks Inc. I can't help you with which hole the sender goes in sorry as I have not bought one of their tanks (I'm in Oz and the freight to me would be ridiculous). Here's their link... http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd349.htm 

 

 

Edited February 4, 2018 by Desotodav

[5027 steve]

2 minutes ago, Desotodav said:

So many questions Steve  Keep 'em coming!

 

Q1. The puller is your best chance with the rear hub. Some of them do get stuck on there hard. I haven't found one yet that my puller and a hammer couldn't remove. I'm thinking that you would have backed off the brakes with the adjuster nuts on the back of the backing plates. Try tapping the drum with the hammer some... but not too hard that you will distort or damage the drum! If that doesn't work... maybe a little heat or a more heavy duty drum puller.

Q2. 80-90 compression is alright. A new engine will push out closer to 120. Your readings are consistent between each cylinder so I reckon that should work fine.

Q3. Your gas tank looks like one from Tanks Inc. I can't help you with which hold is the sender sorry as I have not bought one of their tanks (I'm in Oz and the freight to me would be ridiculous). Here's their link... http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd349.htm 

 

Hubs are separate from drum...someone along the line removed the rivots.  They are now bolted together so we are just dealing with the hubs...Thanks

 

[5027 steve]

Also whenever someone posts a link dust all thank you ....BUT when I click on them it never connects me but goes to a blank screen .....Thanks

[Desotodav]

Removing the hub without the drum should be easier. The axle is tapered with a square locator key preventing the hub from turning on the axle. Maybe a little heat and a harder pull?

I'm not sure what your link issue is all about. Try a Google search on 'Tanks Inc' and go to their 'fuel tanks' section. Your truck will be listed as a '39-47 Dodge truck tank'.

[Merle Coggins]

35 minutes ago, 5027 steve said:

Now into our questions for the weekend:::: OK we tried to remove the driver side rear hub using a 3 jaw puller and then a slide hammer and it will not move at all .......I think I have bearings seized to the axle ....Now What?????? I'm at a loss........Thanks

 

You need the proper hub puller. NOT a 3 jaw puller. The proper puller attaches to the lugs. A 3 jaw can/will ruin your brake drum. The drum to axle connection is on a tapered shaft. These can become rather attached to each other. 

[5027 steve]

24 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

 

You need the proper hub puller. NOT a 3 jaw puller. The proper puller attaches to the lugs. A 3 jaw can/will ruin your brake drum. The drum to axle connection is on a tapered shaft. These can become rather attached to each other. 

Thanks Merle I have a slide hammer puller that attached to the lugs ...I sprayed the axle the best I could with pb blaster gonna let it sit for a day and try again .....

 

[5027 steve]

Also since I have the driveshaft out I want to replace the pinion seal...I take it I can remove the yoke nut and use a puller to remove yoke and replace seal......????

[Los_Control]

I wonder about this myself, remove the nut and the yoke slides off with no puller on mine. Just need to replace seal and re-torque, but it seems to good to be true.

Newer rigs have a crush sleeve in them and a one time torque ...

Need to pull the pinion to replace it, then the inner bearing and seal and basically into it for a full rebuild.

So, can we simply replace the outer seal?

[Blue]

1 hour ago, 5027 steve said:

Also whenever someone posts a link dust all thank you ....BUT when I click on them it never connects me but goes to a blank screen .....Thanks

Just copy and paste any links into your URL and you should be fine. You may have security settings that are not allowing access within the posts.

[Merle Coggins]

1 hour ago, 5027 steve said:

Thanks Merle I have a slide hammer puller that attached to the lugs ...I sprayed the axle the best I could with pb blaster gonna let it sit for a day and try again .....

 

 

A slide hammer puller isn’t going to get it done. You need one of these...

[5027 steve]

I also used to get a email notification when someone relplied here but don't anymore?????

[5027 steve]

Merle coffins....how is that different than what I'm using???? This hub will not budge....tried low heat and nothing ...

[Reg Evans]

1 hour ago, 5027 steve said:

I also used to get a email notification when someone relplied here but don't anymore?????

 

You need to go to the top of the thread across from the title and click on the grey rectangle that says follow.

[5027 steve]

Yep and it is checked to send me email but haven't recieved any Thanks ...

[48Dodger]

The image that Merle posted is like yours except it's designed to be hit with hand sledge. Note the leverage of the targets for the hammer. The hub will "pop" when it gets free from the axle. The one you have isn't beefy enough for that. When you physically have one in your grip...you notice the difference. I see them at the swap meets once in awhile...

 

48D

[Plymouthy Adams]

you may wish to contact Advance/Orielly/Autozone if your locals have a tool loaner program, odds are they may have the exact puller on hand.

[Merle Coggins]

When you mentioned a "3 jaw puller" I was picturing one of these...

 

What you have IS similar to what I posted earlier, but as Tim said, the other ones are a bit beefier, and with the slugger wrench on the end you can gain a lot of leverage with a decent size hammer. It is often recommended to leave the nut on the end, loose, to keep things from flying when it pops loose.