Flathead 6 stalls after running for 5-10 minutes

[Dones475]

Hello all newbe here.

I have a 1937 Dodge Sedan having troubles with it stalling out after idling for about 10 minutes. Can not restart again for about 6-8 hours then the same problem happens again. Carb is a Carter BBR-1 new float.

Any help-advice would be appreciated !

Thanks

[Plymouthy Adams]

what have you tested thus far and been able to rule out as possible problems?

[dpollo]

There is a very good chance the breaker arm bushing in the distributor is binding when hot.  A light reaming with fine sandpaper will cure the problem.  This was a common problem on the 49s but I did have it happen on a 37.

[greg g]

Have you done the test that assures proper fuel flow from the fuel pump? Have you tried to run the car with the gas filler cap loose or off?

[Don Coatney]

Three things required for an engine to run. Compression, fuel, and spark delivered at the correct time. What one are you missing?

[Dones475]

Thanks all.

Have not checked to see if i have spark after stalling.

[48ply1stcar]

Did you ever solve your issue?

[Dones475]

Did you ever solve your issue?

Thanks......

 

Still have not solved issue.......going to try a few things this week end...wish me luck !

[Dones475]

Three things required for an engine to run. Compression, fuel, and spark delivered at the correct time. What one are you missing?

Have compression... fuel.... and spark.... she runs for about 10 minutes thane stalls.......going to try a few things this weekend.  

[Dones475]

Have you done the test that assures proper fuel flow from the fuel pump? Have you tried to run the car with the gas filler cap loose or off?

Will give that a try ....thanks

[Dones475]

There is a very good chance the breaker arm bushing in the distributor is binding when hot.  A light reaming with fine sandpaper will cure the problem.  This was a common problem on the 49s but I did have it happen on a 37.

thanks for the reply !  I'm kinda new at this sorry... where is the breaker arm bushing located on distributor ?

[John Reddie]

Hello and welcome to the forum.

  Here is a quick check that I would do if it were my car. After running for ten minutes and then stalls out, look down into the carburetor and work the throttle to see if fuel is present. You should see a good squirt each time you work the throttle. If you do, then fuel is most likely not the reason the car is dying out. Best of luck to you. Can you post some pics of your Dodge?

John R

[Cebreros]

Has it "always" stalled after a couple minutes or is this recent? Does it misfire before stalling or it is a sudden stall? Does the bay get too hot when it stalls? heat can cause issues when it is not regulated like vapor lock or coil overheating. Does it crank after it stalls?

Keep us updated, good luck. 

[ColonelDan]

What about vapor lock?  Does any of the fuel line run close to hot parts of the engine - like the exhaust manifold?

[Dones475]

Has it "always" stalled after a couple minutes or is this recent? Does it misfire before stalling or it is a sudden stall? Does the bay get too hot when it stalls? heat can cause issues when it is not regulated like vapor lock or coil overheating. Does it crank after it stalls?

Keep us updated, good luck.

[Plymouthy Adams]

why the quote with no reply??

[Dones475]

Has it "always" stalled after a couple minutes or is this recent? Does it misfire before stalling or it is a sudden stall? Does the bay get too hot when it stalls? heat can cause issues when it is not regulated like vapor lock or coil overheating. Does it crank after it stalls?

Keep us updated, good luck.

Thanks for the reply !

Cranks after stalling....looking down carb still getting a good shot of fuel. After cooling for a few hours starts right up. It's is running a little rough at idle but smooths when given gas.

None of the fuel lines are near manifold etc.

Not sure what would cause "vapor" lock.

I have a replacement coil maybe I swap it out and see what happens.

Thanks for your help !

JM

[suntennis]

Have you looked at any of the electrodes of spark  plugs to see if they are black which would indicate running rich? I would check the idle mixture adjustment and see if it is set too rich. If the plugs are black, clean with a wire bush, lean the idle adjustment and see what happens.

[rallyace]

Is the coil mounted with the secondary lead (heavy, high voltage wire to the distributor) up or down?  If the secondary is up and you have an oil filled coil (almost all 6 volt coils are oil filled) then the coil windings are not being properly cooled by the oil. This causes the coil to open due to a loose connection internally to the coil. This used to be a common problem with older British cars. If you have a new coil, install it so the secondary (heavy, high voltage coil wire to the distributor) is either horizontal or aimed down and try to see if it keeps running.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Is the coil mounted with the secondary lead (heavy, high voltage wire to the distributor) up or down?  If the secondary is up and you have an oil filled coil (almost all 6 volt coils are oil filled) then the coil windings are not being properly cooled by the oil. This causes the coil to open due to a loose connection internally to the coil. This used to be a common problem with older British cars. If you have a new coil, install it so the secondary (heavy, high voltage coil wire to the distributor) is either horizontal or aimed down and try to see if it keeps running.

coils have been factory mounted in about all possible position.....they are hermetically sealed....

[Dones475]

Has it "always" stalled after a couple minutes or is this recent? Does it misfire before stalling or it is a sudden stall? Does the bay get too hot when it stalls? heat can cause issues when it is not regulated like vapor lock or coil overheating. Does it crank after it stalls?

Keep us updated, good luck.

Sorry no reply....

Kinda new at this just trying to figure out how to reply.

Anyway...mm cranks after stalling. Can only restart after a few hours. However, when it is running rough idle. ??

Thanks!!

[medium_jon]

Hey, @Dones475   Did you get your problem fixed?

[desoto1939]

to me it sounds as if the coil is heating up internally and there might bea broken winding in the coil so when the coil get very hot internally the wires pull apart and then the coil can not provide the proper amount of power or electrical charge down to the distributor and then the spark plugs.  So after about 6 hours the coil is cold and the wires  have sooled off the heat and then are touching each other and then you can get the car to run for another 10 minutes until it get hot again.

 

Chnage out the coil and mount it inthe proper direct with the main wire pointing down to the dizzy as it was explained above.  Please let us know what happens.  Also when the car gets hot and then dies what is the temp of the temp gage.?  ALSO WE HAVE FOUND THAT ON SO CARS THE LOWER RADIATOR HOSE MIGHT BE COLLAPSING AND THEN THE ENGINES GETS TO HOT TO FIRE UP Check this lower rad hose did you ever change the hose and if you did was there ever an internal spring in the hose.  Also there should be a metal  tube that is connected with to pices of rad hose one from the water pump to the metal tybe and then another piece from the metal tube to the lower port on the radiator. Is this your setup or are you running a one piece form lower radiator hose.  The metal tube took the place of a metal spring that would have been in the all rubber hose.

Please let us know what you find and get back to the posting with you results.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com 

[keithb7]

 In summary:

- fuel is present after engine stalls. Correct? 

- Was spark checked after engine stalls? 

- Measure compression in all 6 cylinders. Cold. Then again after it stalls and won't run. 

[JIPJOBXX]

It sounds like it might be your coil! I had the same problem. To test this just start up  engine and let it idle till it stops.  Take cub s of ice and secure around coil and let it sit for a few minutes.  If it starts right up then it's probably a bad coil.  Coils are a cheap fix and easy to change out.