jgreg53 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Report Posted August 2, 2017 they're 2 spikes that are supposed to pierce the insulation. I don't know if the go deep enough to contact the core wire. Quote
jgreg53 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Report Posted August 2, 2017 they're 2 spikes that are supposed to pierce the insulation but I don't know if they go deep enough to reach the core wire Quote
busycoupe Posted August 2, 2017 Report Posted August 2, 2017 If they are copper core wires it should be easy to check the connection by attaching an ohm meter across the ends. Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted August 2, 2017 Report Posted August 2, 2017 On 13/07/2016 at 6:46 AM, rp84 said: Is there any place to get a oem hose? What means oem hose? Quote
greg g Posted August 2, 2017 Report Posted August 2, 2017 Is your coil wire well and truely seated at both ends? Have you checked for spark at the coil to dist connection, and from dist to plug ? Quote
greg g Posted August 2, 2017 Report Posted August 2, 2017 1 minute ago, Fernando Mendes said: What means oem hose? Original equipment manufacturer. Chrysler contracted with lots of manufacturers to build and supply various parts and assemblies to put in their various vehicles these companies built to Chrysler specifications and schedule, but were considered original parts even though not actually made by Chrysler factories. Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted August 2, 2017 Report Posted August 2, 2017 19 minutes ago, greg g said: Ok.I asked because I bought many quantity of fuel plastic hose for my Jeep,Dodge and GMC trucks and I am not satisfied with it.It shorten its size.I think it is due the ethanol inside the gasoline. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted August 2, 2017 Report Posted August 2, 2017 A serious fire hazard. Plastic fuel line is unsuitable for use on anything bigger than a weed whacker. Quote
martybose Posted August 2, 2017 Report Posted August 2, 2017 I agree with Niel; if you need fuel hose, you should buy a fuel-injection-rated hose at your friendly neighborhood auto parts store. Marty Quote
jgreg53 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Posted August 3, 2017 I have good spark at the plugs. I took each plug out and hooked the wire to it and cranked the engine. good spark on each. I started looking for other culprits. I wasn't getting fuel to the carb. Installed a new filter. I think the pump isn't working. I got very little gas in the new filter. Does the fuel pump suck gas from the line going to the tank? When I took loose the line before the pump, no gas came shooting out the hose. Quote
knuckleharley Posted August 3, 2017 Report Posted August 3, 2017 11 minutes ago, jgreg53 said: I have good spark at the plugs. I took each plug out and hooked the wire to it and cranked the engine. good spark on each. I started looking for other culprits. I wasn't getting fuel to the carb. Installed a new filter. I think the pump isn't working. I got very little gas in the new filter. Does the fuel pump suck gas from the line going to the tank? When I took loose the line before the pump, no gas came shooting out the hose. Your fuel pump may,or may not be bad,but your immediate problem is either your gas tank is full of trash and blocking the fuel line there,or your gas line from the tank to the fuel pump is stopped up with trash.. If you have compressed air,take the cap off of your gas tank,take the fuel line from the tank off at the fuel pump,and blow compressed air into the tank from the fuel pump end of the gas line. If you can't hear gas "bubbling" inside the tank when blowing air back to the tank,your gas line is clogged up,and the smart move it to just take it off,throw it away,and replace it with the new copper/nickel brake line. 25 Feet is around 25-30 dollars,and you will have a new clean fuel line that you know has no rust or trash in it,and it will never rust inside or out. You can even bend it with your hands and it won't kink. Best stuff ever for brake and gas lines. If you do hear air bubbling when blowing it back down the line to the tank,chances are you had trash blocking the line at the tank,and the compressed air blew it away. The bad news is it will come back,but wait until you are far from home before shutting the engine down so you have an expensive tow bill to pay. The smart thing to do is remove the fuel tank,throw a bunch of nuts and bolts in there,shake it around a bunch of times,and then blow all the trash out. If it were me,I would fill it half full of white vinegar and let it sit overnight,then turn it over and let it sit overnight again,and then pour the rust and vinegar out,flush the tank,and immediately coat the inside of the tank with a sealer guaranteed to stand up to ethanol use. While the tank is out,you might as well blast and paint the outside and the straps,and replace the insulation that goes between the straps and the tank that keeps it from rubbing and squeaking. Replace all your rubber gas line with new gas line rated for fuel injection use. Ethanol won't hurt it,but it will eat regular rubber gas lines like acid. If you have any inline gas filters,replace them with new ones rated for use with ethanol. 1 Quote
jgreg53 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Posted August 3, 2017 I have a new gas tank and fuel lines already. I think the problem is the pump. It's a couple of years old. My research shows the corn gas makes the pumps crap out in 2 or 3 years. This will be the the third pump I have put on this car. Quote
knuckleharley Posted August 3, 2017 Report Posted August 3, 2017 9 minutes ago, jgreg53 said: I have a new gas tank and fuel lines already. I think the problem is the pump. It's a couple of years old. My research shows the corn gas makes the pumps crap out in 2 or 3 years. This will be the the third pump I have put on this car. You need to start buying fuel pumps that are certified to work with ethanol. They use different diaphragms than the traditional fuel pumps. Same thing with carb kits with rubber or plastic parts. "NOS" ain't the way to go. Newly manufactured parts kits or parts are the way to go until this nightmare welfare program for corporate "farmers" ends. Assuming it ever ends,of course. 1 Quote
jgreg53 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Posted August 3, 2017 there is a gas station near me that sells some non ethanol gas. Think I will start doing that. Quote
jgreg53 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Posted August 3, 2017 has anyone had any luck rebuilding a fuel pump? Quote
Young Ed Posted August 3, 2017 Report Posted August 3, 2017 36 minutes ago, jgreg53 said: has anyone had any luck rebuilding a fuel pump? Yup. Lots of us here rebuild our own with kits from then and now automotive. Quote
knuckleharley Posted August 3, 2017 Report Posted August 3, 2017 (edited) 59 minutes ago, jgreg53 said: has anyone had any luck rebuilding a fuel pump? I don't think there is anyone who hasn't. They are VERY simple devices. I think I rebuilt my first one when I was around 14. 51 Plymouth I used to drive on the sand dunes and the beach. Paid 75 bucks for it. Just make sure you don't buy a NOS fuel pump rebuild kit because it will have the old diaphragm in it for real gas,and the ethanol will eat it up. Buy a modern fuel pump rebuild kit,and it will come with a modern diaphragm in it. Edited August 3, 2017 by knuckleharley Quote
Silverdome Posted August 3, 2017 Report Posted August 3, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, jgreg53 said: has anyone had any luck rebuilding a fuel pump? When I first started mine this year after it sat for about three months without being started my fuel pump acted like it was bad. I disassemled it and cleaned it with carb cleaner and it started working just fine. Might try that first as you can bench test it after cleaning. Edited August 3, 2017 by Silverdome Quote
jgreg53 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Posted August 3, 2017 is the kit from now and then made for today's ethanol? Quote
knuckleharley Posted August 3, 2017 Report Posted August 3, 2017 4 minutes ago, jgreg53 said: is the kit from now and then made for today's ethanol? Not trying to be a smart ass,but the best people to ask about that is Now and Then. I can tell you anything I want to tell you,but at the end of the day I'm not the guy giving you a warranty on the kit. Quote
jgreg53 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Posted August 3, 2017 fair enough. I've looked at their website Lots of info there. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted August 3, 2017 Report Posted August 3, 2017 Yes, the pump kits from Antique Auto Parts Cellar / Then and Now Automotive are compatible with ethanol blends. They are very good quality kits and the pumps are easy to rebuild. The folks at Then and Now are very knowledgeable on these pumps and are very helpful. I had a modern replacement pump that failed (pin came out) and it didn't have any identifiable markings on it. I was able to send them pictures of what I had and they could identify what kit I needed to rebuild it. It is now my "spare" pump. Quote
Frank Elder Posted August 4, 2017 Report Posted August 4, 2017 This will be my next fuel pump pin. 1 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted August 4, 2017 Report Posted August 4, 2017 The kits form Antique Auto Parts Cellar have a pin with C-clips, or E-clips, so you don't have to worry about them coming out. 2 Quote
Frank Elder Posted August 4, 2017 Report Posted August 4, 2017 6 hours ago, Merle Coggins said: The kits form Antique Auto Parts Cellar have a pin with C-clips, or E-clips, so you don't have to worry about them coming out. Thank you Merle, but I know and like cotter pins better......they don't pop off under stress. Quote
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