Brake Light Switch Issues

[52b3b Joe]

I've been chasing a problem with my truck for a while now revolving around the brake light switch. I keep going through them like water. Sometimes they last months, and some times they last a week if I'm lucky. I don't see why this is happening. I have replaced 4 of them in the past year on the truck, and it needs another one right now. Is there something I'm missing? I buy them local from auto parts stores. Could it be the 6 volt system is damaging the switch? Is there special ones for 6 Volt? I would think it wouldn't care about voltage, its a switch. Too many amps? Cheap parts? The wiring is all new in the truck, and the truck is not over or under charging. The voltage it correct. When they fail, they won't turn on. I can mash the brakes and try anything, but they won't come on. I put a new switch in, and they will work. Has anyone had a similar problem? 

Edited July 7, 2016 by 52b3b Joe

[Merle Coggins]

I had the same problem, Joe. I was getting my switches from Napa and would go through them every couple of months. They would warranty them but I was sick of changing them out. So I got a couple from Rock Auto. I put one in and haven't need to change it since. It's probably been about 4 or 5 years now. The other one is in the glove box, just in case.

 

I cut open one of my failed Napa switches and found the contacts to be badly oxidized.

 

It didn't take much to clean it up, but it was moot since you can't put the switch back together again.

 

Merle

[greg g]

You could always switch over to a universal mechanical switch if you get tired of swapping hydraulic ones . Try one from a Harley dealer and see it the last any longer.

[52b3b Joe]

Thanks for the replies! At least I know I'm not the only one with this issue! I'll try a couple from online like you suggested Merle.

 

Greg, I have already thought about doing that if I have more issues! 

[Merle Coggins]

Joe,

For your reference I went out to the garage and dug my "spare" out of the glove box.

Well, at least it's not China crap...

Edited July 8, 2016 by Merle Coggins

[MBF]

I put one in my 1 ton probably 15-20 yrs ago from NAPA and haven't had a problem with it.  Same for my 36 Plymouth.   Quality of today's switches must be much lower than the past.

[albolton]

For what its worth, I run a hydraulic brake switch off a Harley Davidson on my truck and it has been bullet proof, they are very sensitive, so you don't need to jump on the brakes for the lights to come on. I have run these switches on a few rods without issue.

[Don Coatney]

Taking my family out to eat last week I had my D-24 loaded with family and my son was following me in his van with the rest of the family. When we got to the restaurant my son ask me if I ever used the brakes as there were no brake lights visible on my car. I said yes I used the brakes every time I stopped.  Next day I pulled the wires from the top of the switch and shorted them together. The brake lights all lit up so I know the switch was at fault. I found one on Amazon for ten bucks and placed the order.

https://www.amazon.com/Wells-RB401-Brake-Light-Switch/dp/B0026N52ZW

Several years ago I installed a mechanical switch in my P-15 to replace the hydraulic switch that did work but the mechanical switch works better as the brake light comes on as soon as I tap the pedal without pushing it far enough to build pressure. So for a quick fix I elected to swap the hydraulic switches from one car to the other. I now have working brake lights.

The location of the switch is elbow deep under the hood and it is difficult to spin a wrench. So I elected to use a 1" deep well socket and a couple of extensions so I could spin the ratchet wrench without obstructions. This made the job a whole lot easier and quicker. 

 

[52b3b Joe]

Since I had my issues with all the new switches failing, I ordered two of the Standard switches that Merle posted. So far no issues since July, which is almost a record! I hope I'm not causing myself problems for saying this, but I think I'm writing it off as fixed at this point! 

Don - Let me know how that switch works out. Maybe it will be another solution to the bad switches I was getting from local parts stores.  

[JBNeal]

One of the local machine shops closed last year, it had been around since the 50s...I asked a guy at another machine shop what was going to happen to all of that equipment, and he enlightened me on something that I had not even thought about before:  that machinery was worn out and needed replacement and the owner opted to close the doors and retire rather than reinvest.  I kinda wonder sometimes when parts for our vintage machines are being made by worn out equipment...this can affect quality and performance.  These hydraulic pressure switches may be manufactured on the same piece of equipment that made them decades ago, has been passed around from one mfgr to the next, and it is wearing out too, producing an inferior product as compared to decades ago.  So I reckon it's a good idea to keep an eye on these things before venturing out to keep the surprises to a minimum

[Don Coatney]

My new switch from Amazon arrived today. Less than ten bucks delivered to my door. Looks good. Made in Spain.

[DJ194950]

Better than china?

Could not get much worse!

Unless it does not work at all! 

Best of wishes for a very long life, the switch also!

 

DJ

[Don Coatney]

39 minutes ago, DJ194950 said:

Better than china?

Could not get much worse!

Unless it does not work at all! 

Best of wishes for a very long life, the switch also!

 

DJ

I agree better than Shinola. Will be my spare. May still be in my toolbox longer than I will need my toolbox.

[Jamiejimbob]

Yes mine has given out since I swapped into the new master cylinder. Without me taking it out does anyone know size and type of thread is for the switch? Maybe I can get one off something else in the UK then. 

[Don Coatney]

1 hour ago, Jamiejimbob said:

Yes mine has given out since I swapped into the new master cylinder. Without me taking it out does anyone know size and type of thread is for the switch? Maybe I can get one off something else in the UK then. 

1/8 inch tapered pipe thread.

You might have better luck in the UK finding and replacing it with a mechanical switch such as pictured below.

 

[Brent B3B]

1/8" x 27 thread https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/ECHSL133/ECHSL133_0240274885

would like to find that tap or thread cleaner myself

[Don Coatney]

1 hour ago, Brent B3B said:

1/8" x 27 thread https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/ECHSL133/ECHSL133_0240274885

would like to find that tap or thread cleaner myself

$6.77 at McMaster Carr.

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#pipe-taps/=149mnvb

 

Pipe and Conduit Thread Repairing Taps

 

These plug-chamfer taps are for start-to-finish thread repairing in through-holes. They have 3-5 tapered threads at the tip to guide the tap into the hole. Turn them by hand with a tap wrench.

								Through-Hole Threading
Pipe Size	Thread Type	Threads Per Inch	Thread Lg.	O'all Lg.	Drill Bit Size	Drill Bit Size Decimal Equivalent	No. of Flutes		Each
Uncoated Carbon Steel
1/8	NPT	27	3/4"	2 1/8"	R	0.339"	4	2525A112	$6.77

 

 

[The Oil Soup]

Don, what is the application or part # for the switch pictured?

[Don Coatney]

I have had that switch in my parts stash for about 50 years. I don't recall what I bought it for. However a quick Google search produced this and it looks like the same switch.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Mechanical-Brake-Light-Switch,1972.html?sku=91031306&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SMI - Shopping (CSE) (Bing)&utm_term=1100309955427&utm_content=Speedway

[Jamiejimbob]

48 minutes ago, The Oil Soup said:

Don, what is the application or part # for the switch pictured?

It looks like a Chevy Apache mechanical switch. 

[Dave72dt]

7 hours ago, Brent B3B said:

1/8" x 27 thread https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/ECHSL133/ECHSL133_0240274885

would like to find that tap or thread cleaner myself

Your local hardware store should have them on the shelf/rack alongside the other taps/dies.

[The Oil Soup]

Thanks Don

[Plymouthy Adams]

9 hours ago, Brent B3B said:

1/8" x 27 thread https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/ECHSL133/ECHSL133_0240274885

would like to find that tap or thread cleaner myself

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IRWIN-1902-1-8-27-NPT-Taper-Pipe-Tap-Industrial-Tool-NEW-/111127388385?hash=item19dfb560e1:g:22UAAOxy-j9STwST

[Brent B3B]

4 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

Your local hardware store should have them on the shelf/rack alongside the other taps/dies.

hardware store! what a rookie move on my part, when I bought the switch last Friday I asked the Napa salesman for the tap for the switch. he looked it up and said "that is an odd tap, good luck finding that" (can't believe I left it at that)

and here we have had members find them for under $10. within a few minutes.  Hopefully, lesson learned. Thanks 

[Plymouthy Adams]

in your defense not being familiar with the tools that are available to do each and every job can make doing certain jobs rough.  Believing a person at a parts counter who mess with this stuff daily can also be misleading as we all know if it does not pop up on their computer screen it does not exist in their little world.  E-bay is a very simple and fast go to friend...maybe not your source for purchase but for the most part if it is out there..usually you can find it on e-bay.  Often you can get the part number faster on e-bay then check your local store for stock and price and expected delivery, usually most times on overnight to their store no additional charges for shipping.  For auto parts another good source for part number as most of the big box stores are not as user friendly is Rock Auto....and if aftermarket Summit Racing...use the internet, it is a quick method to many answers

Edited September 22, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams