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Posted

Looking good.

 

One thing I wish I'd done would be to run the engine before it got too hard to remove it to fix oil leaks. Those people who test run there engines on test stands before putting them in the vehicle are doing it right. Had I done that I probably wouldn't be living with a leak around the front of the engine on my car.

Posted

I ran mine before I put it in the first time. It was a lot easier to fine tune and yes, to check and eliminate oil leaks. Can't stop the new ones but at least get a jump on them.  Getting really anxious to finish my truck. Christmas has a LOT of diversions. 

 

ps. Todd, Global bought a large old storage in the San Diego area and moved the inventory to Fresno.  They have even more now than when you were down. 

Posted

Not sure what you guys are talking about re: the starter. Seems to me it was a 5 minute job with the front end off. As I recall I used a long extension and a socket.

I highly recommend Permatex #2 for eliminating leaks. The only "leak" I have is a bit of weep at the rear seal of the transmission and I haven't ever touched it.

 

Jeff

Keep up the good work! Hurrah for Dolly Dodge!

  • Like 1
Posted

As I understand it not all starter mounts are the same. It was easy on my engine with a long extension.

 

starter_removal.jpg

 

But as been discussed in the past there is a special curved wrench designed specifically for starter R&R as pictured below.

 

P1260004_01.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

My truck starter, push post start, only has about an inch between the clutch housing an the starter "proper". Yours has maybe 3 - 4". . Maybe mine has to be shorter for the push post to reach. May be a very good reason to switch to a solenoid style. 

Posted

it's that top bolt that is a ^&%^#@&%#@%& with the fenders on.  Even with them off it was a lot of short turns on the ratchet.

 

AS for oil leaks I still have one on the front seal...and I did use permatex up there...I think for the most part these engines tend to leak period.  Tappet covers and any place that might, can eventually IMO.  But I am also running synthetic, I've been told (true or not) that tends to leak easier.  My professionally rebuilt tranny also has a few small weepy leaks.

Posted

When your the "ALPHA MALE" truck of trucks, you have the responsibility to mark your territory. LOL 

  • Like 1
Posted

it's that top bolt that is a ^&%^#@&%#@%& with the fenders on.  Even with them off it was a lot of short turns on the ratchet.

 

AS for oil leaks I still have one on the front seal...and I did use permatex up there...I think for the most part these engines tend to leak period.  Tappet covers and any place that might, can eventually IMO.  But I am also running synthetic, I've been told (true or not) that tends to leak easier.  My professionally rebuilt tranny also has a few small weepy leaks.

 

Yes they are tricky with the front clip on. I believe I did mine with a swivel socket(different than a sviwel with a socket on it) and an long extension to get past the starter.

Posted

I do not subscribe to the oil leak thing. There is always a fix....you just got to keep at it until you find it. The truck isn't really complete if oil is still leaking.

I guess we will just have to make an exception for the Phoenix ? :PI prefer the stealth approach Paul.....

 

Mark;

I don't know if synthetics can find their way out any easier than conventional oils? I have heard that same thing. Perhaps?

I have my doubts as to if there is any potential benefit of running them in an engine like ours. I believe they actually need a bit of friction for items like rings to run in properly. To me the best way to protect one of these engines is to keep good clean oil in it.......have the best filtration possible..... and have a properly functioning PCV system. I think there is more protection to gain by keeping moisture and other contaminants out of the crankcase than any synthetic oil could provide. Of course that is just my opinion.

 

I sure am happy to see old Dolly Dodge going back together. :) :) :) That is indeed a great thing. Yeah!

I feel certain you probably already know this but you will need to re torque the head and manifold fasteners a few times as you begin to run it. Even things like the oil pan bolts will need snugging up after a good warm up.

 

Jeff

Posted (edited)

Smile on your face tells the story!  :D

 

DJ

Edited by DJ194950
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The latest.  The engine is ready to go, except the distributor which is at VPW for a rebuild, putting on the generator harness, and installing the radiator.  I will see how she runs before reinstalling the transmission, clutch, clip, etc.  The motor is all rewired and ready to go,  It looks gorgeous.  I was pleased how easy it went back together. When I took it a part I cataloged each piece in order that it came off, and put each piece in a plastic baggie. I am so glad I did that, for in the three years it took to get the engine back I would have had a terrible time trying to remember how it all went back together.  I can't wait to hear it purr!

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  • Like 3
Posted

PS, I thought you all might like to see a photo of Marv, they guy who did the rebuild-very slowly did the rebuilt, but did a nice job :)   Also you can see my custom engine stand I made (It was very nice, including stained finish :) ) so the old engine would have a safe ride home. 

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  • Like 2
Posted

PS, I thought you all might like to see a photo of Marv, they guy who did the rebuild-very slowly did the rebuilt, but did a nice job :)   Also you can see my custom engine stand I made (It was very nice, including stained finish :) ) so the old engine would have a safe ride home. 

 

I like the posters he has on the wall in the background too - the one on the right looks like it says "Mopar". Pretty standard decoration for a machine shop. There's a shop in Hayward across the bay from me that has several of the like, including one with the text "Pedalin' abreast"...

 

Lookin' good bud!

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Jeff, I am keeping my fingers crossed regarding the tart up. mI hope she fires up with no issues, leaks, etc. probably wisheful thinking. Zbut I have been very careful putting her back together.

Posted
Jeff Balazs, on 11 Jan 2015 - 09:09 AM, said:

You are welcome. I am sure you know the drill. One thing I would do just before starting is turn it over with the spark plugs out until you see oil pressure at the gauge.

 

Jeff

I did that and a compression test while the engine was still on the workbench.

 

comptest.jpg

Posted

I like how you mounted the oil gauge, I will copy that when I pull the Phoenix engine to clean and repaint. Your attention to detail is a great example for me, something I'm trying to improve on. Thank you.

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