I'm that guy.

[sillyoldman]

I got the '49 Special Deluxe off of CL in Seattle. It has been parked for 35 years. The car is in really good condition as far as rust goes but it's sat for 35 years. Just wondering where to start, it's original & complete. Brakes, motor, tranny?  Mine is a "P"- What?? This is all new to me.

Edited June 11, 2014 by sillyoldman

[Young Ed]

That is a p15 and if its really a 49 its a first series 49. Looks like a nice car to fix up.

[Eneto-55]

Welcome to the Post-War MoPars, and to the forum.  Nice looking car, by the way.

- Neto

[greg g]

If it don't stop ain't no sense in getting it running.  Do the brakes, they are different, need a puller for the rear drums.  and pedal free play and proper adjustment procedure are necessary for a good working system.  The rest is simple basic good engineering.  Good luck, have fun.

[sillyoldman]

That is a p15 and if its really a 49 its a first series 49. Looks like a nice car to fix up.

Is this a good thing??

Edited June 11, 2014 by sillyoldman

[TodFitch]

Is this a good thing??

There were, I think, more P15 cars built from 1946 through early 1949 than 1949 "second series" cars so getting body and trim parts might be a bit easier.

 

Your serial number should be on the drivers door hinge post. You can look it up on the tool on the left side of the page at http://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin or post it here for someone else to look it up. Serial numbers were assigned by factory, model and year so that will tell what your model really is, what year it was built and in what factory it was built.

[Plymouthy Adams]

between the two 49's...the P15 in my opinion is the sharper car...and before I get attacked here..I have owned 3 second series 49's  the P15's rank in this order Business coupe, 2 door Sedan, the 5 passenger club coupe and the 4 door sedan would be a coin toss.

[Young Ed]

Is this a good thing??

Indifferent really just an important fact to know when hunting parts. In most cases as far as parts go you'd be better off calling it a 48.

[Andydodge]

As YoungEd says whilst it maybe "officially" a 1949 its for all intents and purposes a 1946-1948 P15..........as far as I am aware there were little or no difference in parts etc for this and the 46-48 versions which you probably need to confirm when chasing any parts........I'd try and absolutely confirm that its a 1949 via the body and engine numbers as you'll probably find people will call it 46-48.............either way its a nice looking car.....welcome to the world of Mopar.....if anyone knows whats what these guys sure do.......regards, andyd

[Joe Flanagan]

I own a second series 49 Special Deluxe and in my opinion, it doesn't look as sharp as the first series. It seems like Plymouth was in kind of an experimental phase with design at that time. The look of the second series 49 was kept in 50 and then I think by 51 they were on to something different. In any case, the second series look didn't last long. If it sat for 35 years, I'd go through everything: fuel system, brakes, wiring. 

Edited June 11, 2014 by Joe Flanagan

[captden29]

I would like to hear it run if it were mine. greg is right about needing it to stop if it runs. brakes are a top priority.parts are readily available.driver side of car has left hand threads for the rims.it is a nice car. worth fixing up. capt den

[jeffsunzeri]

If you haven't already, get a factory (copy) shop manual.

Buy the book before you do anything else.

[Silverdome]

It looks to be a Club or (5 passenger) Coupe. I can't tell if it is a DeLuxe or Special Deluxe. The interior accents will tell you as I can't see any badges on the cowling between the door and fender. Nice looking car, good luck and welcome.

Edited June 12, 2014 by Silverdome

[mrwrstory]

It looks to be a Club or (5 passenger) Coupe. The interior accents will tell you as I can't see any badges on the cowling between the door and fender. Nice looking car, good luck and welcome.

Yes, essentially a 46-48 P15.  Definately a Club Coupe.  The quarter windows are longer, the back light (back window) is curved glass and there should be a rear seat.  If there is no seat, there will be room for one.  All these are features of the Club Coupe vs the Business Coupe.    ????????? Did they even make a P-15 Bus. Coupe in '49   ?

Very nice car.  Congratulations.  Keep us posted.

Edited June 12, 2014 by mrwrstory

[BobT-47P15]

Also.......if it has the original motor, the number on the drivers side of the engine kind of above the distributor on a boss,

should start with "P15" followed by some other numbers.  Did you get a title with the car, or are you in a non title state?

 

Both a parts manual and a service/repair manual are highly recommended as they contain a wealth of information.....but

still do not tell Everything  you will encounter.   But you can ask here.  The engine should be a 218 c.i. model, with hardened

valve seats from the factory.  

 

Good ol eBay is a good source of parts.......which have become more costly in the last few years.  Also swap meets and some

antique parts dealers around the country.  There is a parts for sale section here also.  I see the typical rust below the tail

lights.  How is the bottom of the spare tire well and the front floorboards?  

 

All the "chrome" trim pieces are stainless steel.  Tail light frames, hood ornament and a few other

things are pot metal.  

 

Welcome and keep those cards and letters coming.   LOL 

Edited June 12, 2014 by BobT-47P15

[greg g]

yes they made a Business coupe in 49.  probably 2 and early series, (P15) and a late 3 window style.  My 46 P15 and Mark Aubuchon's 49, at the Petty Race shops in 08.

[sillyoldman]

It's a '49 for sure. I have the title (really old paper) from the second owner. It has a back seat .I'm pretty impressed with the car. I want to fire it up. Aside from fluids, priming the oil pump, plugs, points etc is there any other precautions I should take? I doubt that the carb or fuel pump are functional so I'll just do a few dribbles of straight down the carb? Maybe pull the head or should I spray the cylinders and hand turn it first? Just thinking out loud some. Thanks for the advise and warm welcome.

[Tusler 49 New Yorker]

I would get the gas tank and all fuel lines flushed clean first. Then check the fuel pump, then at least open the carb and clean the float bowl (it probably has junk in it you don;t want sucked into the motor or clogging up the jets if they are open).

Oil and filter next. Then pull the plugs and if it has not turned in 35 years, I would put some wd40 or marvel mystery oil in every cyclinder and let it sit over night then manually turn the eng Only a little bit, the next day just to make sure no pistons are stuck.

Chock the wheels, put the plugs in with fresh gas and fire it up.

I say do it this way because my car sat since 1970 and I did not oil the cylinders and turn it before I stared it and wound up braking the pistion rings on #1,#2, cyl. I am putting new bearings,rings, and a full gasket set in mine.

Nice car have fun.

Yes do the brakes before you try to drive it!!!

Edited June 13, 2014 by Tusler 49 New Yorker

[Don Coatney]

How do you plan to prime the oil pump?

[_shel_ny]

To get oil in the cylinders where it will do some good (actually in the cylinders) you will need something to help get the oil over there.

 

The plug holes are over the valves, so to get the oil over to the left side of the engine, and down the piston holes, and onto the rings, you will need some plastic tubing or such on the end of what ever you are using to get the oil in.

 

Same applies if you are adding oil to do a wet compression test. Oil down the valve holes won't tell you anything.

 

Exception would be if the valves were closed in the cylinder you are putting the oil into. Then it would likely get over there if you add enough.

 

 

EDIT: After you have gotten some oil down the cylinders, and all is loose, and turning ok, crank the engine over without the spark plugs in until you see an oil pressure indication on the gauge before attempting to start the engine.

 

It is my understanding that by that method you will put much less stress on the engine bearings until they get some oil on them than if you just fire it up.

Edited June 13, 2014 by shel_ny

[_shel_ny]

Your accelerator pump in the carb will probably be dried out after sitting for that extended time.

 

The gas will not make it expand back out.

 

When you have the top off the carb, pull the pump out and soak it in some oil for a while to soften it up.

 

Then work it out a bit at the bottom so that it is a snug fit when reinstalling.

 

 

Edit: If it's dried out, and you don't do that you won't get that little squirt of gas in the carb when move the linkage.

 

Gas line filters before the fuel pump are also a good idea.

Edited June 13, 2014 by shel_ny

[sillyoldman]

How do you plan to prime the oil pump?

No plan but more info absorption/gathering at this point.. Thanks for the help.

[sillyoldman]

To get oil in the cylinders where it will do some good (actually in the cylinders) you will need something to help get the oil over there.

 

The plug holes are over the valves, so to get the oil over to the left side of the engine, and down the piston holes, and onto the rings, you will need some plastic tubing or such on the end of what ever you are using to get the oil in.

 

Same applies if you are adding oil to do a wet compression test. Oil down the valve holes won't tell you anything.

 

Exception would be if the valves were closed in the cylinder you are putting the oil into. Then it would likely get over there if you add enough.

 

 

EDIT: After you have gotten some oil down the cylinders, and all is loose, and turning ok, crank the engine over without the spark plugs in until you see an oil pressure indication on the gauge before attempting to start the engine.

 

It is my understanding that by that method you will put much less stress on the engine bearings until they get some oil on them than if you just fire it up.

Great info I appreciate your reply.

[GlennCraven]

What a fantastic buy! Good luck with the car, and definitely heed the advice you get here. There are more Mopar flathead experts here per capita than anywhere else on the Web. (I am not one of them.)

[soth122003]

For putting oil on the pistons, a syringe and a short piece of tubing will work real good.