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Posted (edited)

Sorry, still learning how to post pics. Won't let me post another picture, says file too big.

post-6317-0-70968700-1392325202_thumb.jpg

Edited by wdoland
Posted

Could be leather, as the old timers were fond of using it in/on just about anything. I would guess that you could use anything that does not conduct electricty.

 

???

 

Or, I could be totally and completely wrong!

 

k.

Posted

W,

If that is your Wire Terminal off of your front driver's side "Inner Fender" they used some real tough fiber insulator.

There is a guy that sells these new. The Two and The Three Type. His name is Dennis at: Iola Wisconsin.

715/445-3791 . He calls them 2 & 3 Post Electrical Junction Blocks - screws to the inner fender, ahead of Radiator on driver's side

aluminum stampings authentic reproduction - about $45 for a set of two (This includes S&H).

Check with him prior to ordering as my catalog is 4-5 years old and pricing may have changed.

Tom

Posted

If you aren't concerned about keeping it original, you can get a barrier type terminal strip at stores like Lowes, Home Depot, Radio Shack, or your local electrical distributor.  Ideal Mfg. makes very good quality ones.  My local Lowes stocks them in different sizes.

 

Wayne

Posted

If you just want to replace the insulator I would think that you could use some type of plastic. Whatever you use should be both an insulator and waterproof. I wouldn't use leather. If leather gets soaked it can become a pretty good conductor.

Dave

Posted

Does the terminal block, which is metal, have to make contact with the body?. The two terminals have what looks like rubber insulating them from the block so it might not need to be. 

I would like to stay as original as possible but a few bucks compared to $45...well I might have to go with McMaster.

Posted

W,

Yeah, Dennis is proud of his merchandise. I believe his business is call Vintage Woodies. His name is Dennis Bickford. He specializes in re-doing Dynoc Woody Sides

Bent Ashe Wood Trim and Convertible Tops. He is a great guy to get to know especially if you own a T&C. Now if your a Woody owner you would probably see $45 as a big Lunch out.

But for us working stiffs/fellows $45 is a weeks worth of gas to and from work, or Lunch all week out at work. L.O.L.

Don Coatney probably gave you the best lead - McMaster Carr. When I re-did my Wiring and Junction Blocks I didn't replace them or the Insulation Strips (as they were falling off) and they still work fine. I wire brushed them and re-installed them as is. The $45 wasn't coming out of my pocket unless it had to. And it didn't have to.

Tom

Posted

Paper/cardboard is a pretty good insulator if dry. Wax can protect against moisture. And we are only talking about 6v here. So if you are on a budget, cut some cardboard from the inner tube of a roll of toilet paper or paper towels, soak it in candle wax and install. Shouldn't cost you more than the time to scrounge the materials from around the house.

Posted

I believe the other wire harness suppliers have them too. YnZ or Rhode Island wiring. I don't think they were that expensive either.

Posted

I believe the original insulating material used may have been "fish paper". A substitute as mentioned above will probably do the job.

http://www.custom-shielding.com/sedco-information/fishpaper.html

  • Like 1
Posted

YnZ terminal block 3- terminal $15
Vintage Power Wagons terminal block:  2- or 3- terminal $20

 

the new terminal blocks have the zinc plated mounting bracket, but a solid original bracket can be repainted (or dipped in vinyl).  Rebuilding the terminal block can be done with the listed or other household plastics in place of the original paper-based insulating material.  New studs can be made with zinc plated nuts & screws from the hardware store.  I'm not crazy about the paper-based products on these old buggies cuz I live in a high-heat &humidity environment and that stuff just doesn't last around here.

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