Can A Flat Head Be A Daily Driver, 230Cu, Route Van

[Don Coatney]

I like the wheels.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I like the wheels too. What is the rim width?

[ggdad1951]

I should clarify my question further.  When I was looking into redoing FEF's wheels I could NOT find a hoop that would fit the rim center.  When they placed the centers did they have a hoop that was the right size, or did they have to cut something down to fit?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Some close up pics of the hoop to rim mods  would be great to see too.

[rkldesign]

Here are detail shots of the wheels from Stockton Wheel.  They are 16x6.5"  Centers were cut from the split ring rims and there was a loss of .25" of the diameter.  They were welded into new barrels that were just the right size for the trimmed centers.  The barrels have a part number as follows:  Made in USA 16x6.5 L.G.I.D. JJ Dot CT&W 02 28 2013

Stockton Wheel, Andre, 209-594-0486 and 209-464-7771  Cost per wheel was 170.00, 50.00 powder coating, so after taxes and shipping back to me about 250.00 a wheel.  They fit perfectly over the large monster drums that I have on the rear of my DRV.  If you don't want powder coating he can send them back to you media blasted ready for primer and paint.  

 

 

Edited January 30, 2014 by rkldesign

[ggdad1951]

not a bad price.  I'm sure they had to mount it all up in a jig to keep everything concentric and true.  Back when i was looking for FEF 4 years ago, no one would do that.

[John-T-53]

Wow, that's pretty cool. Good resource to know about, thanks for sharing!

[ggdad1951]

that info should get pinned someplace IMO, or at least set up as it's own thread so it's more searchable in the future.

Edited January 31, 2014 by ggdad1951

[rkldesign]

Hey Guys and Gals,

 

I am cleaning up my leaf springs and want to know if I should use Por-15 on them or some other paint?  I know they need to slide against each other and so not sure on the finish for them.

 

When I assemble them is there some form of lubricant that I need to use?

 

Thanks,

 

Richard

[Jeff Balazs]

Richard;

You can get teflon anti- friction pads to place between the springs and I have heard this really helps. I couldn't say if one finish is better than another in this application. Seems to me they would all wear off quickly in the contact zones between the springs.

I have been using PB blaster Corrosion Guard spray on mine. I did not take mine apart. This treatment seems to have penetrated  the contact zones and lubricated my old spring packs helping to restore the full range of movement. I like this stuff.....it clings well and does not wash off. Seems to me it would do very well in harsher climes than ours.

 

Jeff

[pflaming]

POR 15 is the same product as ACE's Prime and Paint except that ACE's is 1/4 the price. I sprayed mine with silicone which I learned is also referred to as Teflon a popular brand name. For your climate anything will work. Just too dry for them to rust.

 

Paul 

[Dave72dt]

You may want to try a product called "Slip-Plate". It's a graphite based paint that gets slicker with use.

[John-T-53]

I'm not a believer that anything special is needed for increased "slip" between the leafs on a truck application. I would assemble the spring dry and then paint it. I used POR-15 on mine and they came out great. After that, they were sprayed with WD-40 and squirted with 30-WT oil with a can at a few points along the spring. This soaked in to provide some corrosion protection between the leafs. Perhaps I got a little better ride out of it, but nothing noticeable. What made a difference was the re-arching, new bushings, and new shackles.

[rkldesign]

I have taken all my leafs apart and cleaned then and now need to paint them.  SO I will try the Por-15 and then lubricate before I put them together.

 

It has been fun to work on an old truck again as it is much simpler than todays trucks.  The history of design is neat to see too.

 

Richard

[BobK]

 Richard, go to Detroit-Eaton Springs website. Lots of info on springs. They say to assemble the springs without paint, and then paint the spring pack. They say no paint between the leaves. As to lubrication, on springs made before the mid 50's, it's ok. Later made springs, the metal is different, and oils will weaken the spring. I find that hard to believe, but they are in the spring business and they explain all the reasons why they recommend what they do. Very interesting stuff on springs which I'm sure many of us won't agree with.

[wayfarer]

As to lubrication between the leaves, I would be worried that the 'oil' (or whatever) would attract and hold dirt and possibly accelerate wear at the contact patch.

[pflaming]

". . .  'oil' (or whatever) would attract and hold dirt and possibly accelerate wear at the contact patch. . . "  

 

As compressed down as a pack of springs is and them compressed even more when installed, I cannot image water and dirt could enter as long as the vehicle is in use. Once it is parked for a long time, that is different, still hard to believe but water/rust does. Now it is very possible that i am ignorant to the 'pores' of steel so that water can enter THROUGH THE STEEL itself. Interesting just to think about, does steel in some way have 'veins' such as wood, or can moisture get between the molecules???? I have no clue on this. 

Edited February 17, 2014 by pflaming

[MBF]

I cleaned mine up still on the truck and painted them.  I'm going to give them a shot of WD-40 if I see rust streaks starting to show during the season.  That and a quick wipedown should keep them looking better than they were when I started.

[rkldesign]

Hey guys, 

I need to get my Stromberg BXV-3 rebuilt, any suggestions as to where to have it worked on?  I found a place called Recarb Company in Pittsburg, Ca.  Has anyone used them for their rebuild?

 

Moving right along with the Route Van.

 

Richard

[jeffsunzeri]

I had the stock rims on my WD-21 (1 ton) powder coated and fitted with modern radial tires and tubes. The rims are the lock-ring type, and most any truck savvy tire shop can deal with them. They are plenty safe as others have mentioned, and the modern tires help the ride and stopping a lot.

 

Check your rear end type. It is likely that you can interchange the gears with those from an automobile (Ply, Dodge, Chrys, DeSoto) of the same vintage and get the gearing down (up) to around 3.2:1. I did this on my WC-15 pickup, and it's a great enhancement, and keeps it all stock, and lets me do 60MPH on the freeway with no sweat. The car rear ends are the same as the 1/2 ton pickup chassis, and perhaps your van.

 

I've been using these old things as daily drivers for over 30 years. Six volt, everything just as it came from the factory except a good set of 7 wire turn signals added on. They are pictures of reliability.

Edited March 6, 2014 by jeffsunzeri

[rkldesign]

Hey there guys and gals,

 

It has been almost two years since I dragged this beast home and she is finally ready to hit the roads.  Thanks for all your help in the process and here are some pics to feast your eyes on the beast.  Now it is time to drive to meet ups and shows.  Any suggestions?

 

Hope to meet some of your folks in the months to come.  Richard

Edited June 7, 2015 by rkldesign

[The Oil Soup]

Cool milk truck!

[Plymouthy Adams]

do you have any after pictures...?

[Darkrider]

Nice truck!

[cavisco1]

Nicely done. I especially like how you kept the patina.