chop Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 I've wanted a flathead 6 powered Model A coupe or truck for a while now so when I had the chance to buy a 218 for an awesome price I jumped on it! Even better was that is was only a few minutes away from my house. So far the plan includes an Edgy aluminum head, big cam, 3x1 intake with Carter BB's, header, stainless valves from a small block Chevy, and a 230 crank and rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 ". . . Edgy aluminum head. . ." What benefits come with this head, and why the "stainless steel valves" from the Chevy? Will be watching this thread, will not do what you are doing but these mechanical creations fascinate me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourleaf Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 Sounds like it will be awesome man, and post the progress with us! good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 I installed shiverlay valves in my engine when I assembled it about 10 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybose Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 Don't forget to get the 230 flywheel when you get the crank and rods! Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 Didja notice all his pistons had all their rings. Also just a note to be very careful with that engine on that three legged engine stand. Those can get very unstable with that much weight (700 #'s) hanging on them. Several folks have reported messing up a nearly complete rebuild when trying to roll an engine in late stages of reassembly. I know the Edgy head is very nice eye candy, but milling the stock head can be just as effective in raising compression ratio and so much more reasonable in cost. Good luck and keep the pictures coming. You may have noticed that the rods are offset. it is important to keep them in their matched pairs. especially when swapping in parts from another engine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chop Posted July 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 The last motor I built, I shaved the head .070 and decked the block .020 and it was just over 8:1 compression. I want to try an edgy head because it's a bolt on 9:1 compression and the aluminum should cool better than a stock cast head. I want to try the SBC valves because they are a bit bigger and everyone I've talked to says they're the easiest valves to make work in a flathead. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 Very cool, maybe just maybe someday will try something similar, late 20s early 30s dodge/plym type hot rod. i do like the A model idea with this engine, looking forward to your progress.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chop Posted July 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 Thanks! Here's the last motor I built for my D19. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chop Posted July 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 Also, here is the 230 crank, rods and flywheel I will be using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40desoto Posted July 26, 2013 Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 Where did you get the 230 parts? from a donor engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 (edited) An open question?About a year ago a friend bought a reground crank and rods from what what was supposed to be a 230" mopar motor that was only run for a short time. Reasons for removal were due to some machine shop used of wrong type rings and motor smoked badly. Owner then built a diff. motor/ diff. machine shop to install in his 48 cpe.Decided to sell the crank and rods pretty reasonably and was bought by my friend for future build of 49 Ply. bus. cpe.Question is did all 230 cranks have 8 holes in flange? Did some 218's also have 8 hole crank flanges?Since the crank is not in a engine at this point cannot measure the stroke easily, only compare rod lenghts compared to a 218" rod.Just thinking 4 hole v.s. 8 hole might be an easy way to know the crank stroke. Am I just wishing?? Thanks, Think about my post I now see that I should have started my own post/questions. Sorry, I'll try do again later! And I must go inside now as it's just to damm hot in the garage, Thanks for your understanding!! DougDoug Edited July 28, 2013 by DJ194950 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40desoto Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 Thank You Doug!! sorry about the open ended question.. I though about that as I posted it. Im just new to this era cars and was wondering if there was a market for those parts therefore available if you seek them or do most find by purchasing the whole motor.. Im in the process of getting my 40 desoto rebuld (not sure of what size engine it is since the numbers where re-stamped) and would like to get some extra power by adding larger rotating assembly to do so.. Thanks for your response.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 All fluid drive engines had the eight hole cranks because the fluid drive unit is so heavy. That being said I do not know why the 230 cranks from Vintage Power Wagons would have eight holes as the Military 3/4 ton vehicle was standard shift with dry clutch. Seems the parts I have bought from them over the years were military surplus as they came in military boxes and were coated in the preservative that the military uses.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 I suspect it was for manufacturing simplicity. The 218 I have out of a pilothouse truck is 8 holes too. I would guess if there was any chance the engine was going to be put in front of a fluid drive they made it have 8 holes so there was no confusion later on. That is until we come along and try to figure this stuff out 50+ years later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 Just to throw in a monkey wrench, my 56 plymouth 230 engine uses a 6 bolt/hole setup. Maybe somebody can explain that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 Just to throw in a monkey wrench, my 56 plymouth 230 engine uses a 6 bolt/hole setup. Maybe somebody can explain that. 8 bolt used on fluid drive due to the rotating mass. 8 bolt used on 4 wheel drive due to the powertrain requirements. 4 bolt used on two wheel drive. 6 bolt? Is your car 3 wheel drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chop Posted July 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 Sorry for the delayed reply, I have been really busy the last few days. I got the crank, rods and flywheel from a local mopar guy that has a bunch of misc parts. The 218 in my D19 has a 6 bolt crank and fluid drive transmission, the crank in the 218 I'm building was a 4 bolt and it was out of a 1/2 ton, 4 speed truck and I was told the 230 crank I got was out of a 3/4 ton truck and it's 8 bolt. I really have no idea why they're are so many variations of cranks, but I'd like to know the real answer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alshere59 Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 So just curious. The 8 bolt flywheels for the 218 are the bolts D shaped as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 If I remember correctly they fit against a machined shoulder and are thus prevented from turning while being tightened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 The 41 Dodge was 218 cu in with fluid drive. I have a 41 Dodge engine in my 48 Plymouth with the eight hole crank and the four hole Plymouth flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 Just to throw in a monkey wrench, my 56 plymouth 230 engine uses a 6 bolt/hole setup. Maybe somebody can explain that. Greg, my 56 engine also has the 6 bolt flywheel. My 56 had a standard 3 speed trans. I used the starter from the 56, in my 38 Coupe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chop Posted August 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2013 (edited) For the last few months I've been trying to get parts together and save up some money for this car. Friday I got the block, crank and rods back from the machine shop. Bored .060 and decked .015 with new cam bearings and freeze plugs installed. I also sent my cam to Oregon Cam Grinding for a 288 / .410 grind. Started porting the block tonight. Edited August 25, 2013 by chop 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted August 25, 2013 Report Share Posted August 25, 2013 What are you porting too? manifold, gasket?? What are you using for an intake set up? You mentioned 3 carbs, are you maiking your own intake?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chop Posted August 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2013 Yep, just put the gaskets on there and traced an outline. They can really be opened up a lot as long as you're careful not to go too far towards the deck because of the water jacket. I'll also clean up the inside by where the valve guides go. A friend of mine is cutting me out an intake / exhaust manifold flange out of 3/8" steel on his plasma table so I can make a integrated intake and header. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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