chop
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Everything posted by chop
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A few guys from my car club came over and helped out with some body, it's slowly getting ready for paint.
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I've welded fenders on a few cars. On my '52 I took the fenders off and removed the rubber gasket then bolted them back on and got them adjusted. I put a spot weld every few inches, ground them down then covered them seam with All Metal, it's like body filler but it doesn't absorb moisture like regular filler does so you don't have to worry about rust forming later. Then I just used regular filler over the top of that for the body work. I did the same on my '54 Chevy and never had a problem with cracking.
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So it's been a while since I've done anything but I'm getting back into this car and will hopefully get it done this winter. I worked out of town for almost a year (I'm a carpenter) then bought a house so working on this hasn't been much of a priority. I just brought it home this morning.
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Try a beugler wheel, you could probably do it without making a turntable.
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I haven't been able to work on the car lately but the I did manage to mold the passenger side drip rail out of 5/16" round stock and finished up most of the body work the lat time I was in town.
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It's getting a built 230 flathead 6
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Got some more work done, finished both the passenger side doors and got the skirt mounted.
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The 426 hemi flexplate and 230 crank have the exact same 8 bolt pattern so it mates up perfect. I got the adapter from quality engineering in Bend Oregon. It was pretty simple other than the Durango / Dakota starter was a little tight to the block so I had to grind a few spots down.
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Here's my build of the bucket. The chop wasn't too bad, I did a '54 chevy 4 door and that seemed like a lot more work for some reason. Just wish I had more time to work on it. http://p15-d24.com/topic/34976-flathead-powered-t-bucket/
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I never got to drive it before I traded it. Hopefully I'll get to when my friends finishes it.
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It's getting a 230 flathead. I originally built the motor for a t bucket project I was building but that has since been traded to a friend. It's got a balanced 230 crank and rods, small block chevy valves, 280 / .395 cam, electronic ignition, edgy aluminum head, offy intake and fenton knock off manifolds. It's backed by a 426 hemi flexplate to a 904 automatic. Here it is in the car when I was making the transmission tunnel. And in the bucket
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I've been working out of town the last few months but managed to get a little bit done when I was back for Thanksgiving.
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I need a rear drivers side door for my '52 Cranbrook sedan and was wondering if a 1950 door would fit or just '51 - '52 doors? Thanks!
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Thanks guys! I'm going for the 50's lead sled look with a twist since it's not the normal shoebox ford or '53-'54 chevy everyone else does.
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I'm not a fan of the front ends so that had to change too. I love desoto grills but they are way out of my budget, I ended up using 1952 - '67 VW bug bumper guards for grill teeth.
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Also made some fender skirts that you can see in a few of the earlier pictures. Started with a cardboard template then a 3/4" plywood buck to shape the sheet metal over.
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Rear window came forward about 8" Roof done and B pillar finished
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A few months back I picked up this '52 Plymouth and have been slowly working on it. It's chopped 5" in the front, 6" in the back with a lot of other kustom touches. Here is the day I brought it home. Getting ready to chop Braced up the inside so the body won't flex No turning back now.
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I'm picky about my straight pipes, on a stock motor they usually sound bad but with the cam and compression this motor has it should sound pretty good. You can't beat the tones a hot motor makes with each cylinder firing into it's own exhaust pipe.
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It has a 904 auto tranny now and 2.80 gears in the rearend. I'm going to see how it drives then maybe swap them for something in the 3.3 area.
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I haven't had a lot of time to work on the bucket lately but I did manage to get the intake and header done, master cylinder and head lights mounted and finished glassing the floor.
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The engine is duplicolor metal specks red. It is a "metal flake" spray paint that is good for 500' degrees. I also added some real flake to it over the red before I cleared it, it looks really cool in the sunlight but it was kind of a pain to get to flake to lay down on such a rough surface like an engine block.
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Thanks guys! The adapter is from a company called Quality Engineered Components http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/, I highly recommend them. The owner Gary is a really nice guy and even hand delivered the adapter for me when he was in town to save me a few bucks on shipping. My friend Mike makes the side covers and his website is http://www.rodallperformance.com/, he is a mopar guy too and is working on supercharging his '51 Plymouth Concord. I wanted to try and use as many locally made parts as I could, even is it costs a little more I like to support local business's.
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The slicks are locally made by Hurst Racing Tires in Oregon City, Oregon. They bought all the molds from Ron Hurst and reproduce the tires he made in the 60's and 70's. It's a father and son run business and they both run slicks on they're daily drivers even in the rain and snow. The difference is the now tires are made with a much softer rubber compuond than the old slicks so the hook the road way better. I had a '38 Ford truck with a big block I built and I ran slicks on that without a problem too. The carbs might be a little bit of a blind spot but they shouldn't be too bad, better than driving a car with a blower.
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flathead to 904 auto all mounted up Starting to look like a car
