chop

A few guys from my car club came over and helped out with some body, it's slowly getting ready for paint.

I've welded fenders on a few cars. On my '52 I took the fenders off and removed the rubber gasket then bolted them back on and got them adjusted. I put a spot weld every few inches, ground them down then covered them seam with All Metal, it's like body filler but it doesn't absorb moisture like regular filler does so you don't have to worry about rust forming later. Then I just used regular filler over the top of that for the body work. I did the same on my '54 Chevy and never had a problem with cracking.

So it's been a while since I've done anything but I'm getting back into this car and will hopefully get it done this winter. I worked out of town for almost a year (I'm a carpenter) then bought a house so working on this hasn't been much of a priority. I just brought it home this morning.

Try a beugler wheel, you could probably do it without making a turntable.

I haven't been able to work on the car lately but the I did manage to mold the passenger side drip rail out of 5/16" round stock and finished up most of the body work the lat time I was in town.

It's getting a built 230 flathead 6

Got some more work done, finished both the passenger side doors and got the skirt mounted.

The 426 hemi flexplate and 230 crank have the exact same 8 bolt pattern so it mates up perfect. I got the adapter from quality engineering in Bend Oregon. It was pretty simple other than the Durango / Dakota starter was a little tight to the block so I had to grind a few spots down.

Here's my build of the bucket. The chop wasn't too bad, I did a '54 chevy 4 door and that seemed like a lot more work for some reason. Just wish I had more time to work on it. http://p15-d24.com/topic/34976-flathead-powered-t-bucket/

I never got to drive it before I traded it. Hopefully I'll get to when my friends finishes it.

It's getting a 230 flathead. I originally built the motor for a t bucket project I was building but that has since been traded to a friend. It's got a balanced 230 crank and rods, small block chevy valves, 280 / .395 cam, electronic ignition, edgy aluminum head, offy intake and fenton knock off manifolds. It's backed by a 426 hemi flexplate to a 904 automatic. Here it is in the car when I was making the transmission tunnel. And in the bucket

I've been working out of town the last few months but managed to get a little bit done when I was back for Thanksgiving.

I need a rear drivers side door for my '52 Cranbrook sedan and was wondering if a 1950 door would fit or just '51 - '52 doors? Thanks!

Thanks guys! I'm going for the 50's lead sled look with a twist since it's not the normal shoebox ford or '53-'54 chevy everyone else does.

I'm not a fan of the front ends so that had to change too. I love desoto grills but they are way out of my budget, I ended up using 1952 - '67 VW bug bumper guards for grill teeth.