pat lehmann Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 Hey Guys, I joined this site last fall but havent spent a lot of time on here. I bought this truck in the fall of 2011 for $300 from the orignal owners nephew(original owner is dead, his nephew is probably 70 years old). I have been slowly chipping away at it. The truck sat since 1973 and is in pretty fair condition for a Minnesota vehicle. I'm starting to pick up steam now. I'll have the engine all buttoned up here in the next month and when the weather breaks I'll start working on the chassis pretty heavily. Hope to get it on the road sometime this summer. I'm sure I will have some questions along the way. I post updates on my blog from time to time. http://www.donorcycles.blogspot.com I'll try to update this too. Between raising 3 little kids, working full-time, chasing my wife around and riding motorcycles I stay pretty busy! 1 Quote
pat lehmann Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Posted March 19, 2013 (edited) The engine was stuck (one cylinder stuck, but 6/7 valves were stuck in the guides too). The truck has 43K miles on it. I'm just going to get it all mechanically rebuilt. Not going to do a full restoration. Going to spray everything underneath with Chassis Saver and drive it. The oil pan had some pinholes rusted through the bottom, so I repaired it. Installed new valve guides. The photo in the above post is my son machining out the old guides. Replaced some cracked seats. Edited March 19, 2013 by pat lehmann 1 Quote
B1B Keven Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 Welcome! Keep us updated Good to see another Pilothouse saved!! Quote
pat lehmann Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Posted March 19, 2013 One of my questions off the top of my head... Are there any taller gearing options for the stock rear end?? So I can run with modern traffic. Or am I better off to put a different rear end under it? Quote
Apittslife Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 Hey, Looks like mine did when I bought her, Same Green. Like you, I purchased her from a family member of the Original Owner. Welcome to the forum, & keep us abreast of your progress. Quote
Apittslife Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 One of my questions off the top of my head... Are there any taller gearing options for the stock rear end?? So I can run with modern traffic. Or am I better off to put a different rear end under it? From what I have read here, go with the the jeep cherokee rear axel Assy. Quote
52b3b Joe Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 One of my questions off the top of my head... Are there any taller gearing options for the stock rear end?? So I can run with modern traffic. Or am I better off to put a different rear end under it? You can swap out the center pumpkin with one from a car. It needs to have the same axle shaft spline count and same number of mounting holes to the housing. Look here: http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/topic/28233-rear-end-ratios/?hl=%2Brear+%2Bratios Quote
JBNeal Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 if not the Cherokee, then maybe a Dakota rear could make the modern traffic driving a reality Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 You might want to read this valve guide information just in case you dont know how they should be installed. http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html#installing 1 Quote
pat lehmann Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Posted March 19, 2013 I have installed them all with the counterbore down. My original service manual said nothing about running the counterbore UP on the exhaust side. It does have a special NOTE to run the counterbore down on the inlet side. I am pretty certain that the original guides I removed were all counterbore down too?? Quote
HanksB3B Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 Cool Dad... and Cool Kids Too! Welcome, Hank Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 I have installed them all with the counterbore down. My original service manual said nothing about running the counterbore UP on the exhaust side. It does have a special NOTE to run the counterbore down on the inlet side. I am pretty certain that the original guides I removed were all counterbore down too?? The decision is yours. I just wanted you to be aware of this issue. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 Exhaust valve requires the guide counter bore up to protect the upper part of the valve stem. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted March 22, 2013 Report Posted March 22, 2013 welcome! Looks like you are kinda handy! Your truck is a Minnesota save? Does that mean we've got another 'sotan on here? Quote
pat lehmann Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Posted March 22, 2013 welcome! Looks like you are kinda handy! Your truck is a Minnesota save? Does that mean we've got another 'sotan on here? Yah I live in Plainview and I work at the Harley shop in Rochester. This truck came from the Red Wing area. It must have been stored in some sort of shed/leantwo for awhile because the seat isnt all cracked/rotted. The drivers door is all rusted out on the bottom and the passenger is starting. Otherwise the rust isnt too bad, dont get me wrong, everything is rusty. lol. just not rotted out. Quote
Young Ed Posted March 22, 2013 Report Posted March 22, 2013 Cool we'll have get together. Mark and I are up in the twin cities. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 22, 2013 Report Posted March 22, 2013 Speaking of Rochester... Has anyone heard from Dan Olson lately? I haven't seem him here on the forum in quite a while. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 22, 2013 Report Posted March 22, 2013 Yah I live in Plainview and I work at the Harley shop in Rochester. I have a couple of cousins in, or around, Plainview. I was planning to swing through there on my way home from the WPC meet in Lake Elmo this summer. Merle Quote
pat lehmann Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Posted March 26, 2013 So I did some port work to this thing. Mainly I enlarged the inlet ports to 1.600" to match up to a CV carb. I am going to run three of them on this engine, & build a header for the exhaust. Maybe a 6-3-1 or something. I have to get the engine all back together & in the chassis to see how much room I have to package everything. I started on the flange today. Hopefully get some holes drilled tomorrow Quote
pat lehmann Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Posted March 26, 2013 I have a couple of cousins in, or around, Plainview. I was planning to swing through there on my way home from the WPC meet in Lake Elmo this summer. Merle When you get into town Merle you'll have to look me up. I went to school with some Coggins'. Sarah, and there was a boy too I think, but they were both older than me. Quote
pat lehmann Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Posted March 30, 2013 I did some more work on the engine today. You can check out all the details on my Blog http://donorcycles.blogspot.com/2013/03/shes-spinnin.html Quote
pat lehmann Posted April 12, 2013 Author Report Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) Got some more done today. Installed the Oiling system with a new pump. Got the Oil pan all buttoned up. When you guys do the first initial valve lash adjustment are you setting them at .010" for intake and .014" for exhaust? I know I'm supposed to reset them with the engine HOT. Edited April 12, 2013 by pat lehmann Quote
pflaming Posted April 12, 2013 Report Posted April 12, 2013 Rear axle. I put in a 97 Cherokee axle, drums, et al. It bolted in. With this you get bigger more modern rear brakes. Last Saturday I put 360 miles on the truck, averaged 14 mpg and I traveled with the trucks. I could have gone faster, did a couple of times to pass, but it ran smooth at that speed and I like smooth. I have a three on the tree but will swap it with another three speed with overdrive. That should get me another 3+ mph. I also removed one leaf from each spring so it rides very nice. Looks like you know what your doing, I'm just a retired novice. My first vehical. Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 12, 2013 Report Posted April 12, 2013 An extra 2 thousandths on intakes and 3 on the exhaust over the hot settings will get you close. They close up a bit when they get warm. Retorque the head when it's warm too unless the head gasket specifically tells younot to. 1 Quote
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