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Everything posted by 1952B3b23

  1. Well I've been chipping away at the fender slowly. The top section of the fender is shaped and i am currently working on the front portion which has the reverse curve section. Once I'm finished with that panel it will be time to add the bead detail to each of the 3 sections and weld them together. I'll keep adding pictures as i make progress. Maybe this will inspire some other folks to take a whack (literally) at shaping metal! -Chris
  2. Cool, thanks for sharing the pictures. In what town is this located? I live in western, MA and hadn't heard of this show till now. I usually go to the Ty-Rods fall swap meet at Stafford Motor Speedway. -Chris
  3. Thanks. I'm actually glad I was working on a different project for all that time. I learned so much on the '39 and my skills have gotten better. So the work done on the truck will be much higher quality than what I was able to do back then. All I can do is get a bit done at a time and keep improving. -Chris
  4. Well i'm finally back to working on this thing, boy it's been awhile! Since i last posted i got my '39 Plymouth coupe (see my avatar) back on the road after buying it in July of 2014. That turned into way more of a project than i expected. But i learned a ton in the process and the new skills will help me on the truck. The cab needs a lot of metal work so i decided i'd start with the drivers side door jamb. I had removed the rusted out section a few years ago so i copied the passenger side jamb using the flexible shape pattern method. This method is something that was created by my friend and top notch metal shaper/coachbuilder Wray Schelin (check him out at proshaper.com). Using this method i was able to take the passenger side pattern and turn it inside out and i instantly had the pattern for the drivers side. I then used a combination of bead roller, hammers, dollies, chisels, and sand bag to form the jamb section. It still needs to be gone over one last time to tune up the surface and also to do the final fitment. For now i just clamped it up so i could get an idea of how it was looking. Thanks for looking, -Chris
  5. My technique is this: 1. Wire brush or scrape the lose rust off the panel. You can do this by hand or with a wire wheel in a drill. 2. Buy Naval Jelly, available online or Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Here's a link to the stuff i use: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-16-fl-oz-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver-Bottle-553472/203009241 3. Forget about the part in the directions that say the stuff will work well in about 20 minutes, it doesn't. Unless the part has very very light surface rust. Apply it to the area you would like to de-rust using a small paint brush. Apply liberally. 4. Get yourself some of the cling wrap stuff you use in the kitchen and cover up the naval jellied areas. Then let it sit for 24 hours. The cling wrap will keep the naval jelly from drying out as quickly and it will do its job much better. 5. The next day scrape and wire brush the rust and dried up jelly off. It may be necessary to repeat the process so that you can get it right down to bare metal. This works well but it requires patience and some elbow grease. I used this process on all the panels i needed to weld on my '39 Plymouth coupe. Good luck. -Chris
  6. Thanks. I hear ya on the time issue. Thats why in the three years since taking the class i hadn't done much shaping, no time for it. I spent all my time trying to get the '39 Coupe back on the road. It involved making some small patch panels but that was it. I now told my self that i need to do more shaping and i really want to learn. So theres no other way but to get out there and do it. Did you take Wray's class? Yea he is a great guy. Im happy to call him a mentor and a friend. Thank you. It's funny that you bring that up. The two front fenders that i have now are fiberglass. I might end up recreating those in steel.
  7. Here is another picture that i forgot. The fender will be made in 3 pieces then welded together. The tools used so far are, stump, mallet, sandbag, and english wheel. -Chris
  8. Hey Guys,I picked up this '54 Dodge fender off of Ebay awhile back to use on my project. It's in really sorry shape with lots of damage and paper thin metal. I figured i'd try my hand at recreating it. It'll be a great learning experience and lots of fun. I'm fairly new to metal shaping but i did take Wray Schelin's class back in June of 2014. It was a great investment, i learned a ton and would highly recommend his class to anyone wanting to learn. Wray is a master at the craft and an all around nice guy! Since then i've made several small patch panels but no large panel shaping like in this project. I've been doing the shaping at my house and going up to Wray's shop in Charlton, MA for help when im stuck. He's really been a huge help and i can't thank him enough for passing on his knowledge. Check out his website if you're interested, http://www.proshaper.com/ I'll update this thread with my progress as i go. It'll be slow going since im still learning and make lots of mistakes. The attached pics are of the first corner piece i'm making. Thanks for looking, -Chris
  9. Here's a link to a site that list different stations in TX, as well as other states that sell ethanol free gas. http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=TX I did some research on this in my area of MA and found one station closest to me wanted $75 for 5 gallons of "pure" gas. That's way more than i was willing to pay. So i've stuck with the regular ethanol blended fuel from the pump. -Chris
  10. You can call Pertronix customer service and they will help you with finding the coil you need. I believe that depending on what the coil is filled with dictates if it's orientation sensitive. Meaning if it can be mounted horizontal,vertical, or maybe it doesn't matter. -Chris
  11. Dont feel too bad. I've done this before as well. I had a friend pumping the brake pedal while i bled the front brakes (with the drums off). Next thing i know i hear a funny sound and see a ton of brake fluid pouring out of my drivers side front wheel cylinder. Duh, the wheel cylinder basically over extended because the shoe had no drum to contact. The fix was easy, put the drum back on and start the bleeding procedure over. I did feel like an idiot though lol. -Chris
  12. I just replaced the plug wires on my '53 flathead and i used Taylor Street Thunder 8mm set from Summit racing (P/N: 50047). I'm happy with the quality and how they look, maybe those are an option for you as well. Do you think that miss under load could be caused by the fuel that you are using? I've heard that this ethanol blended fuel can cause some wacky stuff with our old engines. Ethanol free gas is hard to find around me and quite expensive. So i've actually switched to running the "Plus" grade of ethanol blended fuel that they sell at the pumps. I believe that the octane rating is 87, instead of the 83 i use to put it. I think this actually had a positive effect on my cars performance. It could all just be cause I've installed the dual carbs and dual exhaust, but i dont know it sure feels like its helped. I'm just throwing out ideas maybe something will spark an "ahhh-haaa" moment for you. Good luck. -Chris
  13. Maybe Rich Hartung will chime in. He is a member on this forum and i believe he owns one of these tools and knows how to use it. The service manual for the car doesn't tell you how? I think my '39 Plymouth manual says what to adjust the brakes to using the Ammco tool. -Chris
  14. Yea i'd think you have a vacuum leak somewhere. I did a vacuum test on my car the other day and it's pulling about 19 inches at idle. Good thoughts on checking the carb. You do have the vacuum advance port on the carb blocked off for the test right? -Chris
  15. Im glad you finally got it solved. That looks like a nice reamer. Just curious on how much it cost? I've toyed with the idea of getting one but usually i just bring them to a local machine shop and they do a great job. -Chris
  16. Have you checked for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold with the engine at idle? You can take some starting fluid and squirt it on the gaskets where the intake bolts to the block, and at the base of the carbs. If the engine revs up then you've found your leak. Just use very small squirts, obviously starting fluid is very flammable. I would plug the vacuum port that goes to the vacuum advance as well. Just in case thats leaking. I've also heard of guys doing this same test with an unlit propane torch. I tried that before but i found that the fan blows the gas away so it didn't work well for me. Have you changed the exhaust/ intake manifold gaskets at all recently? I just put dual carbs and dual exhaust on my car and i found that it required a lot of heat cycles and re-torquing of the nuts to totally seal up the exhaust and intake. The gaskets will creep and settle in with the heat cycles. -Chris
  17. If you contact member "Tim Kingsbury" on this forum he may be able to help you with finding a replacement. Or maybe he knows of an overseas version that will work on the engine. Good luck. -Chris
  18. Here's another source for rebuilt vacuum advance that you might consider: http://www.classiccadillacwaterpumpsforsale.com/19divaadrese.html I had them do the one for my '53 218 ci last year and it works fine. They do require that you send in your old one as a core. As far as your timing issue goes, i was having troubles with my car last week too. It would start but run rough as hell so i started by loosening the distributor and adjusting it while the engine was running until it sounded better. Well after i did that i shut off the car. Tried starting again and got nothing. So i popped the distributor cap off and realized that some how the lead that connects the points to the distributor had come off. I have no clue how this happened, i hadn't touched the distributor or tried starting the car since last fall. I was amazed that the car even started at all. So i pulled the distributor and fixed the issue as well as checking the point gap. Then i reset the timing to 2 degrees BTDC per the instructions in the manual. The car started right up but still sounded a little bit funny. Next i put on the timing light and readjusted. This made me realize how my initial 2 degrees BTDC setting was actually quite off. Once i dialed it in with the light it made a world of difference. You probably checked all this stuff already but sometimes its the most obvious things that can be causing the most havoc. Good luck and beautiful car! -Chris
  19. I have new rear leaf springs on my '39 Plymouth coupe from St. Louis Spring and they work great. I think you'll be pleased with your choice. -Chris
  20. So i almost have the steering box completely removed from the car. Im now thinking about the rebuild process. Are there any old manuals you guys know of that might be helpful? I've never rebuilt one before. Or i may just see if my mechanic friend can help me out. Thanks in advance. -Chris
  21. Thanks. You did a nice job. Whats the name of the color you painted it? I like it. Thanks for the heads up. I bought 4 exhaust manifold nuts from AMS Obsolete on ebay.
  22. So along with doing the dual exhaust on the car i'm going to remove the steering box so it can be rebuilt. It's extremely sloppy and can't be adjusted any more. I made a simple steering wheel puller yesterday out of some .25" steel plate, three 3/8 bolts, and a 1/2 bolt. It worked great and the wheel popped right off. My steering wheel feels pretty sturdy but it does have a lot of cracks unfortunately. -Chris
  23. When i removed the intake/exhaust manifold i had one of the threaded studs snap off in the block. I got lucky that all of the others actually came out. To take it out i wanted to try welding a washer and nut to the end and then turning it out. I was paranoid that i would catch the car on fire with my MIG welder so i removed the fuel pump and covered as much as i could with fiberglass blankets. I first tried welding just a nut onto the end of the stud with the MIG. This didn't work, the nut broke off For round two i decided to use my TIG welder. But for that i had to remove the passenger side fender so i could reach in and actually see what i was doing. This worked great. The tig allows you to get really good penetration and it heats up the stud a lot too. So while it was still hot i squirted a little penetrating oil on it and was able to remove it without a problem. Also, the TIG doesn't produce any flying sparks so i wasn't all nervous that i'd light something off. Having the fender off will help with routing the dual exhaust and fuel lines. It's a lot easier then slumping over the fender for hours! Thanks for looking, -Chris
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