ggdad1951 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 (edited) So I ran the engine for a while again last night for kicks and to get the newly repaired rad up to temp for a while. I put a 180° thermostat in but my temporary temp gauge runs up to about 220 before it drops back down to about 180 and then cycles back and forth....normal? not normal? Edited September 29, 2011 by ggdad1951 Quote
Reg Evans Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 Not normal in my book. Are you sure your gauge is accurate? At 220 the radiator would be boiling over. Quote
TodFitch Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 Sounds like the bypass is not working properly... Do you have a non-bypass thermostat installed in an external bypass type system? You need a little flow in the head so that the thermostat properly senses the overall temperature. If there is no flow, then the thermostat will not detect the heat in the back of the block and stay closed too long. Then once it opens everything cools off. Now the thermostat closes and the cycle starts over. Net result the temperature does not remain stable. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 Also sounds like maybe that thermostat is sticking closed for a bit. 1 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Posted September 29, 2011 (edited) so what max temp should it be running at? 180° Maybe some air trapped in the system after everything got drained? If it WAS running at 220 was I in danger of wrecking something? Edited September 29, 2011 by ggdad1951 Quote
Young Ed Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 If I remember correctly that gauge seemed quite accurate when we were running it before. Since this was the first one after a refill it could have been air. Did you notice the level in the radiator go down afterwards? I think I'd keep an eye on it next time and if it doesn't happen again let it go. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Posted September 29, 2011 yah it was pretty close to right if I remember right. How high should the temps go with the 180 in there? Quote
55 Fargo Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 yah it was pretty close to right if I remember right. How high should the temps go with the 180 in there? well when your first refilling a dry system, your temp gauge could rise over 200, then back right down once t/stat opens and all coolant gets circulated. If you are asking what temp your engine should maintain at, well that depends, a 180 t/stat should be gine to open at slightly below 180, and should be fully open at 190-200 reange. Hot weather, high speed=higher engine temps, cold weather, and your engine may have trouble staying at 180 on the highway, so all depends. Quote
John-T-53 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 Perhaps you still have some trapped air pockets? When filling it from dry, I always like to disconnect the heater hose at the firewall to let all the air out of the head. Not sure if entirely necessary but it allows filling of the system once without topping off after first heat-up. Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 You may want to take the thermostat and drill a 1/8 hole in it. This is to bypass the thermostat allowing air to bleed off and also to allow a little circulation when it is closed. Many thermostats have this hole, I seem to recall the stock flatheads had such a hole with a jiggle pin to prevent it getting clogged up. Quote
NiftyFifty Posted September 29, 2011 Report Posted September 29, 2011 Sounds like what my engine did the first time... Sounds like air in the system. I have a 180 in mine and on the highway it lives at about 190 on the gauge Quote
JBNeal Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 if yer running that motor at idle, it's gonna take forever and a day to get all of the air out. Throttle the motor up to 1200-2000 rpm up to and several minutes after reaching 180 to get that flathead to burp it out. Quote
Dave72dt Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 Thermostat is designed to quickly bring an engine up to a prefered minimum operating temp and to help maintain that mininmum. It does not have a maximun. Cooling system capacity limits the high end so things like coolant flow and restrictions, air temp, air flow can change where the high or low end is on any particular day. That's why parades in summer are tough and winter cold may not ever get them warmed up properly. Pressure caps can raise the boiling point of coolant past the natural boiling point. IIRC, 1 psi is worth 3 degrees so a 3 pound cap should hold to about 221, theoretically, and for trivia, a maple syrup cooker told me boiling point on any given day varies by a few degrees. He'd start the cooking process each day by boiling water, recording the temp and then adjust the cooking temp. It only took a couple degrees too hot to burn the syrup. Quote
greg g Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 is your t stat in right side up?? Also most of these radiator are vented below where the cap seals so there is no way to build pressure regardless of the cap. Also over hot at idle or low speed is usually related to air flow, at high speed, its coolant flow. try placing a big fan in front of the rad while your engine is running. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 is your t stat in right side up??Also most of these radiator are vented below where the cap seals so there is no way to build pressure regardless of the cap. QUOTE] Thats a car thing. My truck has the vent/overflow right in the neck. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Posted September 30, 2011 is your t stat in right side up??Also most of these radiator are vented below where the cap seals so there is no way to build pressure regardless of the cap. Also over hot at idle or low speed is usually related to air flow, at high speed, its coolant flow. try placing a big fan in front of the rad while your engine is running. As YoungEd said when we started her up the first few times no problems...I'm thinking it is just air in the system, I'll fire her up today and see what she does. So I'd assume the stat is in right if it was workign before. It DOES pop and drop the temp quickly down, but that initial high temp had me worried. is your t stat in right side up??Also most of these radiator are vented below where the cap seals so there is no way to build pressure regardless of the cap. QUOTE] Thats a car thing. My truck has the vent/overflow right in the neck. my rad has the tube like the picture.....don't be going saying that's a car rad on me! Quote
Young Ed Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 my rad has the tube like the picture.....don't be going saying that's a car rad on me! Nope thats all truck. Some of the 39-47 guys put 4lb caps on them. Quote
greg g Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 is the opening of the tube above or below where the cap gasket seals? Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted September 30, 2011 Report Posted September 30, 2011 So I ran the engine for a while again last night for kicks and to get the newly repaired rad up to temp for a while. I put a 180° thermostat in but my temporary temp gauge runs up to about 220 before it drops back down to about 180 and then cycles back and forth....normal? not normal? If it keeps doing this once the cooling system is full it means the thermostat is sticking and not opening when it should. There are a lot of defective and short lived thermostats around these days. Quote
NiftyFifty Posted October 1, 2011 Report Posted October 1, 2011 Aaaaaahhhhhhh...... This thread must have jinxed me... Took my truck out tonight and like always it climbs past 200 on the first warm up but then kept going... I was on the highway in 5th at about 2100rpm and it crept all the way to 225 and then finally opened.. But then jumped up again... Dropped.. Then again up to 230 for a few seconds then dropped right back to 200/190 and ran that way the rest of the trip. I got into town and I was in a parking lot and realized all the white smoke ... I must have blown a head gasket... It did run fine all the way home and not hot at all... Can't win... Guess ill start tear down next week Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 1, 2011 Report Posted October 1, 2011 Aaaaaahhhhhhh...... This thread must have jinxed me... Took my truck out tonight and like always it climbs past 200 on the first warm up but then kept going... I was on the highway in 5th at about 2100rpm and it crept all the way to 225 and then finally opened.. But then jumped up again... Dropped.. Then again up to 230 for a few seconds then dropped right back to 200/190 and ran that way the rest of the trip.I got into town and I was in a parking lot and realized all the white smoke ... I must have blown a head gasket... It did run fine all the way home and not hot at all... Can't win... Guess ill start tear down next week Well that is not too bad a job, hope all is okay, what were you doing, going 120 kmh on the Trans Canada........ Quote
NiftyFifty Posted October 1, 2011 Report Posted October 1, 2011 Well that is not too bad a job, hope all is okay, what were you doing, going 120 kmh on the Trans Canada........ At 2100 I'm doing about 100-110... So I wasn't going too fast I didn't plane the head before rebuild.. Maybe that's all... But funny it took 1500+ km to show up Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 1, 2011 Report Posted October 1, 2011 Cjheck the torque on the head bolts before you take it off. Common practice was retorquing after a run in period, sometimes directions required it done when hot. Quote
NiftyFifty Posted October 1, 2011 Report Posted October 1, 2011 Cjheck the torque on the head bolts before you take it off. Common practice was retorquing after a run in period, sometimes directions required it done when hot. I have rechecked it once after I ran it a few times and nothing had moved.. But I will give them all a once over first.... Anything to not have to take the hood off again! Quote
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