Dave72dt Posted May 3, 2015 Report Posted May 3, 2015 (edited) If you were changing rear axles to a more modern one, hangers and shackles are available that might make it a cleaner install. Grab the springs and hanger off the donor as well as the diff. Dorman has some hangers and shackles you may want to take a look at. Edited May 3, 2015 by Dave72dt Quote
Young Ed Posted May 3, 2015 Author Report Posted May 3, 2015 If you were changing rear axles to a more modern one, hangers and shackles are available that might make it a cleaner install. Grab the springs and hanger off the donor as well as the diff. Dorman has some hangers and shackles you may want to take a look at. I am putting a 94 jeep axle in. Already bought it off craigslist. Quote
Dave72dt Posted May 3, 2015 Report Posted May 3, 2015 Hit one of your local boneyards and have them clip the frame off ahead of the front spring mount and get the springs with it. Once you get the hangers off front and rear, give them back the chunk of frame. Quote
Young Ed Posted May 4, 2015 Author Report Posted May 4, 2015 Dave I am assuming to use a different rear hanger like this http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-32967-722-010.aspx?origin=keyword I'd have to use the matching front in order to keep the springs in a straight line? Quote
Dave72dt Posted May 4, 2015 Report Posted May 4, 2015 (edited) If it matches your spring width or you could shim to make up the difference. Whether or not you would need the front would depend on how the spring lines up. Cutting the front and rear brackets off a Cherokee frame and getting the springs would mean you might not need cut and weld new perches on the axle. Edited May 4, 2015 by Dave72dt Quote
Young Ed Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Posted May 22, 2015 Who won me or the truck? 8 rivets drilled and removed. 3 bits broke. one twisted. If you look close you can see where the flat spot is for the chuck and that it curves off around the bit. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 22, 2015 Report Posted May 22, 2015 glad I don't have to keep you supplied with tools...lol Quote
Young Ed Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Posted May 22, 2015 (edited) glad I don't have to keep you supplied with tools...lol The two little ones didn't surprise me much. The 3/16 and 3/8 that was a little bit of a shock. Edited May 22, 2015 by Young Ed Quote
ggdad1951 Posted May 22, 2015 Report Posted May 22, 2015 having taken rivets off myself...they are beasts! Quote
Young Ed Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Posted May 22, 2015 You need a gas axe. Wouldn't you risk damaging the holes with that? We did use one to remove the hangers Quote
Young Ed Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Posted May 22, 2015 having taken rivets off myself...they are beasts! I've still got at least 8 more to go for the running board mounts..... Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 22, 2015 Report Posted May 22, 2015 Wouldn't you risk damaging the holes with that? We did use one to remove the hangers No. Don't heat the frame, just the rivet. It will burn out leaving the hole intact. 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 22, 2015 Report Posted May 22, 2015 Gas ax!!! Got too get me one. No you don't! You already burned one garage down. Not knowing anything about how a set of torches works is just an invitation to disaster. Don't do it. 3 Quote
RobertKB Posted May 23, 2015 Report Posted May 23, 2015 (edited) Who won me or the truck? 8 rivets drilled and removed. 3 bits broke. one twisted. If you look close you can see where the flat spot is for the chuck and that it curves off around the bit. The truck! Edited May 23, 2015 by RobertKB Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted May 23, 2015 Report Posted May 23, 2015 You did a good job of drilling them on center . Quote
Young Ed Posted July 26, 2015 Author Report Posted July 26, 2015 Well I got the front spring pins out. Found a video by 48 dodger and the passenger side came right out although I did wreck the pin because the threads stripped out of it. The other side wouldn't come out so I pulled the whole hanger off. Then the pin pushed right out from the inside. However a disaster also occured and it even looks like a mocking smiley face. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 26, 2015 Report Posted July 26, 2015 hey still up...why did you leave chat without a goodbye... Quote
JBNeal Posted July 26, 2015 Report Posted July 26, 2015 .... However a disaster also occured and it even looks like a mocking smiley face. That perforation might not be so bad: it's parallel to the channel neutral axis with no visible radiating cracks. This can be gouged of loose material and a flush filler patch welded in place & ground smooth. It also may be possible to just gouge the hole, maybe run a weld bead along the hole perimeter and grind smooth, install the hanger & run with it, as the hanger is bridging this area and reinforces the channel web. DC brings up a good point with the blue wrench: oxy-acetyl can be used to melt out a rivet or bolt without damaging the surrounding material. This is my preferred method when dealing with cast iron, as it has a much higher melting temperature than any bolt broken off in it. The trick is to focus the flame tip at the center of the bolt/rivet and slowly work in a very small circle once the metal starts to flow, eroding the little cuss that necessitated the extra heat. Gravity is your friend, so try to angle the work so the metal will flow away from the heat asap. Things don't have to be turned up on end, just enough so that there is a gradient for stuff to flow. Another thing to consider is that rivets & bolts, even though held tight in place by the wedging action of their engagement, are not a complete engagement of components, as there are verrry small gaps between the fastener & mating items. Heat should transfer through the fastener before completely bridging this gap, so the fastener should heat up faster than the surrounding components. With the fastener melted out, the threads can be chased out or the hole can be reamed to clean things up for assembly. And this all requires a great deal of patience and attention, because if ya get hypnotized by your flame, you may do the damage that you are trying to avoid...flame carefully 2 Quote
Young Ed Posted September 20, 2015 Author Report Posted September 20, 2015 Took a while but I think I got that hole fixed. Further inspection on the other side also found it to be rusty. Got that patched and one of the holes in the cross member. When the frame is bare for doing the T5 we'll patch in the bottom side of that cross member. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 20, 2015 Author Report Posted September 20, 2015 Does anyone know what the hole is for? On the one side I cut above it so if it serves some purpose I'll have to drill one there. Quote
Desotodav Posted September 20, 2015 Report Posted September 20, 2015 Which ones are you working Ed?... the front mounts of the rear springs have a hole in the chassis so that you can get a drift in there from the back to know the pin out, but the back ones really have no need for a hole in the chassis there as they have a grease fitting on the side of the shackle mount and no hole in the end of the shackle bushing. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 20, 2015 Author Report Posted September 20, 2015 Which ones are you working Ed?... the front mounts of the rear springs have a hole in the chassis so that you can get a drift in there from the back to know the pin out, but the back ones really have no need for a hole in the chassis there as they have a grease fitting on the side of the shackle mount and no hole in the end of the shackle bushing. Yes these are the front mounts for the rear springs. My crossmember there is boxed in except for a pass hole for wiring/brake line. Quote
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