Los_Control

ok got it figured out. The rear case, > heater core with rubber bumpers between case/core Is the little tabs in the corners of the shroud. Those go to the heater core frame and prevent shroud from sliding around. Then when you put the other side of the case on, the lip circled in red, goes into the matching lip on case. Then you really need to squeeze both 1/2's together. This compresses the rubber bumpers pushing core against the fan shroud, locking the heater core in place. Very simple design that seems to work quite well. I wont call it restored, but saved it from the scrap heap since all the doors were rusted closed and pitted metal. It will be easy to do a proper paint restore on it now at a later date, and can use it in the mean time.

I have never been there or know nothing about the place. Over on the H.A.M.B they are saying most cars are private owners and for sale on consignment. Meaning the car owner would be responsible for their own car insurance. I doubt was some kind of insurance fraud/scam going on because the market is down. Bad news anyways you look at it.

here ya go p15-d24.com/topic/43179-bulls-eye-headlight-retrofit/

I borrowed a timing light from a buddy once. The lead that goes on the spark plug was a spring, the end was all unraveled and hardly stay on the plug. You had to get it just so to stay on. So I sat down and did a little trimming and re-wrapping, I made it just like new again. Boy did he get pissed, he spent a lot of time to get it just like it was for a certain job, but kinda worthless for what it was meant to be. He was right, I was wrong. It was his tool and I should not have changed it .... last time I borrowed a tool

I love my uncles philosophy, I aint borrowing no damn tools, be my luck I would break it, then have to buy them a new one, I still wont have the tool. No sir, I will just buy my own!

https://muskegon.craigslist.org/pts/d/1948-dodge-flathead-6-and-4/6227030346.html This one seems pretty rare, Have a flathead slant 6 with the 4 speed transmission that's out of a 52.

dont forget to run a want add on craigs list auto/truck parts.I have seen a lot of times someone will pull a original motor and try to sell it on craigs list, they sit there forever with no sale. Guy eventually just pushes it in a corner and forget about it. Just a idea that is worth a try before you buy anything, might find a good running motor that someone wanted to drop a small block chevy in instead.

My first thought was maybe a tool to find top dead center, but if it is only for 40's-50's, kinda leaves out the engine as would include 30's also

I feel sorry for you, is tough choice to make, but the right choice. I went through same thing with my sister last September. She was sick but doing ok, then test showed positive for lung cancer, they kept poking and said she had stage 5 brain cancer. Just in 3 short weeks we went from laughing and joking, to pulling her off life support ... it was hard. I felt somehow guilty and wanted to try more, but it was the right thing to do, she did not suffer and was her wishes. I feel your pain

15 is to young 36 is to old 24 is just right

I would say this is fairly common with the quality of Chinese junk we are sold.Over on another forum I had a post about a old international truck, Had 2000 miles on complete rebuild.New points cap condenser rotor at that time. First time I looked at the truck for my uncle, it would not start. Had a weird spark at the points. They were pitted and the arm was worn off from the lobe on the dizzy. I tuned it up with new cap rotor points condenser. It started right up and ran fine ... one time, could not get it to start again. Everybody over at the other forum, told me to check the new condenser. I went out to the shed and grabbed a condenser off a engine that has been sitting for 20+ years, it ran fine. General consensus is the modern quality today is junk, not enough business for these old parts for anyone to bother to improve the quality. Just never leave home without a spare in the glove box. And is also a good time to consider switching to electronic ignition, not because we cant keep these old points system running, because we cant get quality parts that last.

While over at my uncles couple weeks ago, cleaned up the shop so it could be used again. Was looking at my wifes grandpas lathe. My uncle explained that grandpa put the chevy 3 speed transmission on it, so he could change speeds easily. While I stood there thinking & shaking my head at the projects old Ed use to get into ... should have been taking photos. I will get a couple next time am over there.

sorry, I just added on to this thread instead of creating a new thread about the same heater. The motor is fine. I started this thread when I took the heater apart, several months later trying to put it back together. Is the fan shroud mounting that I am holding in my hand. I see no way to fasten it in the case. If I show it sitting on the heater core, it looks like the sheet metal screws will ride right on top of the shroud, holding the shroud and heater core in place. Just seems a little flaky to me, but with all the sheet metal screws on all four sides, it would hold it. I was just wondering if anyone could confirm that was correct?

Slow progress, I have been doing some other work to the truck, just now getting back to the heater. The paint is terrible at this point, but after assembly and gaskets, grommets I plan to disassemble scuff and finish paint. I did use the molasses bath and it did a excellent job of removing the rust. Any paint that was solid, the molasses does not remove. so is some feathering in that needs to be done. Also I think the mirror is a good example. The body was complete rust, the paint looks like orange peel, but is actually the pits left from the rust. Sandblasting would have destroyed it, but is very solid as is. And parts of the heater is in the same condition. Is mostly just cosmetics. Problem I am having is the plate am holding, I see no way to fasten it. It fits snugly in to the case, just seems like if it moves the tiniest bit, it will hit the fan. Can anyone tell me if there is a mechanical way to fasten it? or is it just press fit and when all buttoned up it will not move? Thanks again, as always it is appreciated.

run coiled copper and can double as a portable still

Just curious if you would be interested in IRC (internet relay chat) it is free and open source software, there is no fee but as always, donations would be accepted, they do not ask for donations. I have been using freenode server since around 2005, is a very good server and first class groups on it. Just to try it out I went to a channel called ##p15-d24 I am the very first person to ever go there, so it is free for me to register the channel and become owner of it. If I issue the register command, it will then be taken and I own it and nobody else can take it away. I would prefer someone else long standing in the community, take ownership of the channel and I would be happy to help out as a channel moderator. All the owner needs to do, join freenode server, issue a command to register your nickname, then join the ##p15-d24 channel and then issue command to register it in your name. As long as I am squatting on it, nobody can take it from me. So if you want chat, we can do this pretty easy. And the group can pick any name so long as it is not registered by someone else already. It does not have to be ##p15-d24, could call it moparz or whatever, pretty obvious why I checked p15-d24. To try it out, all you do is go to this link https://webchat.freenode.net/ Enter a nickname and then for channel ##p15-d24 select I am not a robot and enter and it will bring you to the chat room. Basically we already have a chat room. Also you can download and install a free irc client, I use hexchat but there are many available that work on any platform including android, mac, linux, windows. This way I have my browser free to use and the chat window available at all times. There is a small learning curve for freenode, main thing for users is picking a name that is not in use and is best if they register the name, so nobody else can steal it. For the channel owner, is more involved with commands to set topics and a hundred other things such as granting moderator rights and banning channel abusers, but is well documented and not rocket science. use google search for info. And even though there are a hundred options, you only need to know a couple to get started. Be sure to stop by ##p15-d24 and say hello o/

I live in south eastern WA, years ago swamp coolers were all we had, and all that was needed. With the dams and widening of the rivers and irrigation on farms, man made humidity is much more. Right now is 94 degrees and 19% humidity, not rained for weeks. A swamp cooler would work some with this dry spell, but a lil rain and no chance.

have to agree, is same basic principle as a swamp cooler. And dry climate they work great, if you have humidity, wont work much if at all.

another alternative, that I have never tried but you can google. Is using straight vinegar, cheap by the gallon, not caustic and reports says it works ok.

thanks for the photos there JB, proves I once again forgot and the seat has the lever and not the frame. I am thinking about my seat options, because I now have two choices. Honestly what I really want, is bucket seats with a center console. And I need to claim a pair of bucket seats if I want them, they came out of a custom 1972 dodge van and mounted on pedestal and swivel. Or I have a set of ford seats from same early 50's era with new brown fake leather. I think I can just remove the hog rings that hold material to the frames, and modify to fit my frame. And am trying to figure out what would take to restore the comfort selection of the original seat, vrs throwing it out and just go with buckets like I want. Is all pointless anyways. I cant stop thinking about. We are only caretakers for a little while. Just keep it as is and when we pass, A new caretaker will step in. So bucket seats are out. Will just recover what I have, honestly a old horse blanket over it and would not be bad. I imagine is just some sort of wire that stretches the springs taught when lever is moved.

We use to use them on springs to raise the car height. Just saying, assume your springs are good, then throw in a couple sets of the blocks. Then throw on a set of heavy duty air shocks on the rear, we were turning 1963 falcons into gassers by raising the suspension up. But yeah, they have no value and should be tossed

Being in a position like that before. can honestly say. When one door closes, another opens. And if I had not been released of my current responsibilities, I never would have had the opportunity to accept the better job waiting for me. I know it hurts, but trust with your experience, you will fit nicely in a better position.

Still puttering away on Molly the 49 b1c flatbed. And have been thinking about the bench seat. It has the custom ordered "air ride" seat? I cant remember the correct name of the option. But it has a tin tag riveted to the cab above the wind shield with operating instructions. Move the lever to the left for a softer seat or to the right for a firmer seat. I am trying to find any info on restoring/recovering a seat like this. The seat still has the original covering on the bottom, so cant see inside to the springs. While the lever is actually on the base of the seat that is part of the cab. Just wondering if any have insight or a link to the construction of these seats. Thanks in advance.

Just makes ya wonder what the 1948 title goes to

good looking truck, my avatar picture is a 49, you can see the difference in the grills. Yours looks newer and 50'sh to me. But I also suspect sme work has been done to yours over the years and who knows what transpired.