Los_Control

HAH, I heard about popeye and a old panel truck. I thought was the cartoon popeye, not the restaurant.

Looks like I will pay for that one

Ok now I have extra parts Last night when I was taking it apart, these square washers showed up, and unsure where they came from. Any ideas? The good news is, I forgot to install the round washer on the mechanical advance, I get to take it back apart and do it over anyways. Got the coil all cleaned up and touched up the paint, pretty sure it wont have any spark now.

subscribed, I have same question, if the master cylinder is worn and needs rebuilt. Can it be replaced with the newer dual stage master and keep the original drum brakes?

Welcome to the forum Steve. o/ I also am new, been here a few weeks and is a wealth of info here. A very active forum for such ugly trucks I actually just got my 1949 B1C, I was researching some about it before I made a deal for it, and actually posted here before I bought it. This forum, the enthusiasm, the knowledge, And the fact I fell head over heals in love with Molly, all played in the decision. Molly has been sitting since 1978. I did add 10/40 oil to the cylinders and let it soak for a few days, I tried to turn it over by hand with the plugs out, and it turns fine. So I dont really think it was froze, but added some more oil anyways and turned it by hand some more. I then found a youtube vid on rebuilding the carb, is really simple. I tore mine apart and just soaked it in dawn dish soap and water, scrubbed it with a tooth brush and air dried it with the compressor. Everything looked fine, it was just filthy from sitting for 30+ years with no air cleaner on it. The float bowl had a thick layer of crud on the bottom. It had to be cleaned, was no chance it would run as was. Then I pulled the distributor out. They have both mechanical and vacuum advance, Both were frozen solid on mine, the mechanical was pretty simple to clean and oil, the Vacuum part has a ball bearing the points plate rotates on, the bearing is frozen solid and been soaking in oil all night. Also the cloth wires inside the dizzy were all frayed and will ground out on the base, this is not wanted. Just saying, might be a good time to look at your fuel and ignition system, while the engine soaks, dont get in a hurry. Keep us posted on how it goes, am interested and glad to see another pilot house saved.

Thanks again Jerry. I have two more complete 218 engines. They are both 1952 engines from B3B's. Maybe can find something that works, or order a new one.

Model number 1AP-4101-1 Also has Chrysler corp part number, 1233564 Now that I think about it, this is a 218 motor in a 1949 B1C, the engine numbers say it is a 1937 dodge motor, could maybe be the 37 dizzy to?

Now I am jealous! That tube with the cap looks like something I need to have. I do have 2 more distributors that I can look at, see if I can rob one of them. Here is what I do have, sure it is fine, but would prefer to at least have the tube with cap..

Thanks Jerry, that helps a lot. I see how the cup works, and is the hole with the felt that I have. So I can add a few drops now and then, just doint have a fancy reservoir. I thought it would be strange for someone to take apart the dizzy and just replace one spring, guess seen stranger things though.

In the process of cleaning my dizzy. It has frayed, bare ground wires. mechanical advance is rusted close. All typical stuff. Will have to check the vacuum advance with a pump yet. 2 things puzzle me though. 1, the springs for the mechanical advance are different sizes. Same lenght, but one is heavy and stiff, while the other is soft and easy to stretch. I dont think this is correct? 2, using this link for reference, the paragraph below talks about a oil cup, I dont see it. But I do have a hole that seems like it might be stuffed with felt, could that be it? http://www.allpar.com/fix/electrical/distributors.html If the car has a vacuum advance, disconnect the vacuum line. Then remove the two screws holding the vacuum advance to the distributor body. The arm of the vacuum advance connects the distributor with a tiny clip. Use a tweezer to remove it. Don’t lose it. Remove the bolt down plate and the oil cup on the side of the body. Sometimes the oil cup will unscrew. Other times it is a press fit. Be sure to clean this part. The old oil sometimes hardens and plugs the oil passage.

Looking great, keep up the good work!

uggg, forgot about the battery under the floor boards ... was thinking the helper would ride on the fender while lodi drove around the block

of course you will have to check it while it is acting up, could be only when driving. Is good to have a helper with this, while you drive ....

That makes sense! You can even see a 1/2 round indentation on the tag, where the linkage rod has worn, while riding on the tag. That make perfect sense to me and sure you are correct. Thank you

Hoping to get back over there tomorrow to work on it some more. Raining today and going crazy stuck inside with nothing to do. So I am restoring the cloth wiring on my heater motor, with thread and the wifes nail polish Tomorrow I will remove the tag and get a better look at why it is there.. selectrolux sounds familiar, probably because of electrolux. And dodge had so many different shifting options with push button and lever on the dash, fluid drive ... selectrolux fooled me as another shift option. Just took the photo and figured would google it later and find something more on it.. At this point, it seems like something Hokey, that a previous owner did.

This could explain the difference you are seeing in your 34. Makes me wonder, is the starter different or just the bellhousing? Link to source http://www.allpar.com/mopar/flat.html The old reliable flathead six kept many an old Plymouth on the road long after its original engine had been scrapped; the later engines were bolt-for-bolt swaps into the early cars (see note on right). The engine received a fully jacketed water system in 1935 which meant moving the starter slightly outboard on the bell housing. For a later engine to be put into the ’33 or ’34 models the bell housing had to be changed, but this was unnecessary from ’35 on.

I was thinking that maybe that HAWT bodywork/paint job might be rubbing off on the sending unit

Thanks that does answer my question. I did hook it up to a battery charger, typical shop unit with choice of 6 volt 40 amps, nothing happened. Have not tried it yet after taking it apart and greasing, cleaning it. But it did make me wonder if I would need something else from the ruck to test it.. Looks like I will be removing the heater from the parts truck later today.

Good advice, I did find a couple right away, I am going to stay 6 volt on this truck, Not sure but believe positive ground should not make a difference in wiring. I am still curious to find out if I can bench test the one that I have. I also have a b3b parts truck with a model 65 heater I can use. If I can test it. I also have several early Ford heaters that are 6 volt. I just want to keep as much as possible 1949, back when things were better built then the Chinese junk pushed out today.

Curious if anyone has bench tested their heater blower motor? I have dissembled my model 61 heater for a molasses bath, so took a peek at the insides of the blower motor while was at it. To me the brushes look a little short,, but never seen a new set of brushes to compare them to. I also do not know how to tell if the armature is badly worn. I cleaned it with some rubbing alcohol. Basically ready to put it back together, just wonder if I can bench test it by connecting it to a battery charger, or will I need to connect it to the heater switch and resistors? Anyone have good luck buying replacement brushes and replacing them?

That sounds like a acceptable reason to run a dual carb setup

I that photo, I think I already pulled the biggest part of the rats nest out. I will also add, I do not live where the truck is parked at. So I removed the carb, heater and extra starter and took them home with me to work on. And just pulled apart the carb. Honestly there is just dirt and filth from one end to the other on this truck. Just getting it clean to see what is what, will be a challenge. But the carb does look serviceable, and once cleaned and oiled will look much better. Also my parts truck has been parked with the air cleaner on, is the carb I will throw a rebuild kit at when it is time.

Not much done, but at least got it moved to where can work on it now. I did get a battery in it, the headlights work nice and bright, but there is nothing when pushing down the arm of the starter. This may be a wiring issue, but think it explains the replacement starter that has been sitting on the seat for 30 years. You can see the indentation on the seat still, kinda doubt if it will ever come out. I did remove the carburetor, plan is to tear it down and soak it in water with dawn dish soap, just clean and rinse it well. Then air dry and clean the jets and passages and oil, reassemble. The carb looks good, butterfly, choke, accelerator pump all move freely, no rust and the air/fuel needle is in good condition. I just want to start and run the motor at this time to check the condition of it. I have another motor that I plan to rebuild, and I suspect the carb on it is the better of the 3 I have. Will rebuild it. I also pulled out the heater while was there, It had been bypassed long ago. Hoping will be able to rebuild the core, but more importantly the doors are rusted closed, it needs some serious loving and a lube job. I want to try my first attempt to using a tub of molasses to remove the rust. Has anybody used this method before? any tips can pass along would be appreciated. Not sure if it needs to be diluted with water or just straight ... hoping water. Also will check the fan to see if it works. got a few old Ford 6 volt heater fans around, pretty sure they are not positive ground though. Am I correct in thinking the fan motor needs to be wired for positive ground? Any thoughts on the replacement starter? I have no clue on the condition of it, the gear looks good and no sign of any wear. I will inspect the brushes and clean it the best I can. Maybe rattle can some paint on it. As far as I know, this could be a rebuilt or new starter, just rusty and dirty from sitting on a truck seat for 38 years. I expect the brushes to tell me a story. Any tips what to look for would be appreciated also. Here are just a couple pictures to show the real before work, now that it is moved to where can open the doors up all the way and get it cleaned out, on blocks and get to work.

BWAAAHAAHAA, I knew it! Love your handle, it did pop up a few times in my searches, almost mentioned you in the original post.