Los_Control

Good advice, I did find a couple right away, I am going to stay 6 volt on this truck, Not sure but believe positive ground should not make a difference in wiring. I am still curious to find out if I can bench test the one that I have. I also have a b3b parts truck with a model 65 heater I can use. If I can test it. I also have several early Ford heaters that are 6 volt. I just want to keep as much as possible 1949, back when things were better built then the Chinese junk pushed out today.

Curious if anyone has bench tested their heater blower motor? I have dissembled my model 61 heater for a molasses bath, so took a peek at the insides of the blower motor while was at it. To me the brushes look a little short,, but never seen a new set of brushes to compare them to. I also do not know how to tell if the armature is badly worn. I cleaned it with some rubbing alcohol. Basically ready to put it back together, just wonder if I can bench test it by connecting it to a battery charger, or will I need to connect it to the heater switch and resistors? Anyone have good luck buying replacement brushes and replacing them?

That sounds like a acceptable reason to run a dual carb setup

I that photo, I think I already pulled the biggest part of the rats nest out. I will also add, I do not live where the truck is parked at. So I removed the carb, heater and extra starter and took them home with me to work on. And just pulled apart the carb. Honestly there is just dirt and filth from one end to the other on this truck. Just getting it clean to see what is what, will be a challenge. But the carb does look serviceable, and once cleaned and oiled will look much better. Also my parts truck has been parked with the air cleaner on, is the carb I will throw a rebuild kit at when it is time.

Not much done, but at least got it moved to where can work on it now. I did get a battery in it, the headlights work nice and bright, but there is nothing when pushing down the arm of the starter. This may be a wiring issue, but think it explains the replacement starter that has been sitting on the seat for 30 years. You can see the indentation on the seat still, kinda doubt if it will ever come out. I did remove the carburetor, plan is to tear it down and soak it in water with dawn dish soap, just clean and rinse it well. Then air dry and clean the jets and passages and oil, reassemble. The carb looks good, butterfly, choke, accelerator pump all move freely, no rust and the air/fuel needle is in good condition. I just want to start and run the motor at this time to check the condition of it. I have another motor that I plan to rebuild, and I suspect the carb on it is the better of the 3 I have. Will rebuild it. I also pulled out the heater while was there, It had been bypassed long ago. Hoping will be able to rebuild the core, but more importantly the doors are rusted closed, it needs some serious loving and a lube job. I want to try my first attempt to using a tub of molasses to remove the rust. Has anybody used this method before? any tips can pass along would be appreciated. Not sure if it needs to be diluted with water or just straight ... hoping water. Also will check the fan to see if it works. got a few old Ford 6 volt heater fans around, pretty sure they are not positive ground though. Am I correct in thinking the fan motor needs to be wired for positive ground? Any thoughts on the replacement starter? I have no clue on the condition of it, the gear looks good and no sign of any wear. I will inspect the brushes and clean it the best I can. Maybe rattle can some paint on it. As far as I know, this could be a rebuilt or new starter, just rusty and dirty from sitting on a truck seat for 38 years. I expect the brushes to tell me a story. Any tips what to look for would be appreciated also. Here are just a couple pictures to show the real before work, now that it is moved to where can open the doors up all the way and get it cleaned out, on blocks and get to work.

BWAAAHAAHAA, I knew it! Love your handle, it did pop up a few times in my searches, almost mentioned you in the original post.

I have a question about selectrolux. This here is a 1952 B3B. Right next to the gas pedal rod, is a tag with mismatched screws on the floor. My google fu has let me down with this, I have searched in this forum and H.A.M.B. along with google, finding nothing bout selectrolux. there is a s, under the flathead screw. At this point, am thinking just a trick some old geezer did years ago, used the metal tag to hold down the padded flooring, Is up above us now laughing his butt off while I research this. Any input on this tag?

Been a long time since I have operated a 6 volt vehicle, assuming your is stock 6 volt. So I have been living vicariously through this forum to keep me entertained inbetween working on my 49 dodge. Which I plan to do today. Couple things that come to mind, a common problem is installing new battery cables for a 12 volt system. Might work for awhile, but not heavy enough cable to last. And then there was a article about the ground cable being attached to the generator from the factory. When the brushes wore so thin, no longer provided a proper ground. Replacing the brushes in the generator would cure this, but many just moved the ground to a new location. At least that is how I read the thread, maybe someone here can correct me. But a good cleaning on all 4 ends of 2 cables would not hurt anything. Good luck

The interesting thing about 6 volt to 12 volt conversions, 6 volt requires heavier wiring. Looking at your stock 6 volt battery cables, size should be 00, while 12 volt cables are pretty small and not adequate for 6 volt. All of your original wiring harness will be over sized for 12 volt, 6 volt requires larger heavier wiring. The 6 volt starter is the same way, it is built heavier then the 12 volt starter. I would use the 6 volt starter as long as it worked. If it wore out, I had a choice sitting on the bench with a 6 or 12 volt starter, I would grab the 6 volt again, and install it without giving it a second thought. To mr the 12 volt starter would be like a "get me by". I wanted the 6 volt, but this is all they had, so guess will use it.

I love the simplicity of a carb. which is why I love old trucks. My last work van, I drove for 10 years and was a old ford. Had a 500 holley 4 barrel, and I lived in Albuquerque NM. I lived in the valley and my Ford ran well, in the valley. If I had a job in the East end of town, at the foothills of the Sandia mountains. It ran like crap with the higher elevation. Head towards home and ran great again. Took a Sunday drive up to Sante Fe once, elevation is so high, I fouled 3 spark plugs just getting there. I prefer old trucks and carburetors, does not hurt to have a modern car around for the Mrs to drive.

IMHO, EFI has so many advantages over carburetors, for driveability the efi cant be beat by a carb. Will automagicaly adjust the fuel mixture when cold, return to normal as engine warms up. Will compensate for higher altitude as you climb mountains, provide you with best fuel economy and performance. A carburetor just kinda sits there and wags it tongue at you. Nothing like the character a good ol temperamental carb will provide.

What a mochine \o/

Thank you. I do plan to file for a lost title for it, my uncle bought it 25 years ago for parts and no title. I plan to take the original motor out and put in my other truck, So I would not want to title it with the engine number. And the 1949 truck does not have the original motor, so probably need to fix the title on that one as well ... always something!

Excuse me for asking in this thread, there is a lot of good info here. I have a 1952 truck that want to file for a lost title, I wonder if the trucks also have a Number on the frame, in the same location?

I just used the search term "dual carb manifold flat head 6" and first hit is summit. They sell 2 manifolds, one for the 23" blocks and one for the 25" block

I was thinking about the effort it would take for the intake. Probably easier to adapt a single newer 2 barrel carb, then all the machine work to build manifold for 2 single barrel carbs. Back in the day, they did not have the selection of carbs that we do now, was worth the effort to make the manifold.

Any chance there would be some written article/info on how to go about doing this? Love that early American Hot Rod look, even if not practical

Not me, but that would be a nice donor motor for the truck. I had the slant 6 in a early 60's 1 ton dodge, It had the 4 speed with granny gear. I bet there would be just about any flywheel, clutch , bell housing available for you. I have no idea what you will need to do to the motor mounts, sure it could be done.

I thank you for your time and effort in maintaining this great site.

That is really looking good, I think I may check into the soda blaster myself. Looking forward to watching this thread.

All great info, I am very happy Hagens is still around. I remember as a kid driving by and looking at all the cool stuff they had sitting around, and going there with my uncle a few times to buy parts. Of course I was only joking when I suggested we might be hoarding the sources for parts

And you expect us to remember where all those cotton pickin wires go? Surely you jest!

Just something to think about. Anytime you have two cylinders next to each other with exact same compression, and lower then the rest, they could be suspect for a leak between them. They would be connected through the warped head/bad gasket and share the exact same compression. And because of the higher volume of space of combined cylinders, the compression would be lower. And of course, could be nothing wrong, they just happen to be the same. Could be you just rounded the numbers off to 80, actually one was 79 psi and the other was 82 psi. These cylinders would be reading differently and not throw a red flag. And all this means to me, if I suspect some issue and doing a compression test looking for the issue, I would check those 2 cylinders multiple times to be positive they were constantly reading the same. Then when head was pulled, I would be looking very carefully at those 2 cylinders for some sort of trail.

As a newbie myself, I think that maybe nobody wants to reveal their sources. If you buy a part this week, sure enough they will need same part next week and they will all be gone. I myself just got a 1949 B1C and am wondering about brake shoes. I see Rockauto.com has some wheel cylinders and master cylinder, but not seeing shoes or drums. Am curious about what others are doing for these items.