Los_Control

actually you open the kitchen Fawcett and beer comes out

another image

I am curious what the purpose of wrapping the springs in metal is? Never seen this before.

yeah really close, they are painted silver with beauty rings and center caps. They have 6 slots instead of 5. Not to bad cleaned up, not sure would want them on a pilot house though.

They are same style, looking and I think the lil red has chrome wheels, where these are painted with beauty rings. Or do lil red have beauty rings also?

So cleaning up, had these wheels sitting in the tire shed. Still trying to figure out if these are cool or not so cool. 15x7 steel wheels painted silver, 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Any idea what car they would have come off of? I have been searching and come up empty. Maybe someone here knows what they came on from the factory?

My 2 cents, I am looking for butt height. I want to open the door and slide in. I do not want to step up into it, or crouch down to get in.

sure is a sweet looking truck, how does it run?

Napa is a great store, a real auto parts store. I hate walking in there, I only do it if it is the last resort. The mark up is incredibly high, my uncle only deals with napa, and he brags about the discount he gets. If they just had a reasonable mark up to begin with, would not need a huge discount. And then there is joe blow that walks in off the street and he does not get a discount, they really stick it to him. I just do not like trading with a outfit like that, like vultures they pick and choose who gets the shaft ..... Now guess how I felt when I moved back to town 1.5 years ago, found out that every Tuesday for the last 3 years my uncle bought 4 huge pizza that you buy fresh from the maker and take home and bake, and brought it to napa to feed the crew. He needs a fuel pump for his buick, napa list price is over $300, with his discount, it is down to $128, he brags how good they treat him. Rock auto, I can get a factory ac/delco replacement pump for $90 or the same quality that napa sells for $35-$50 Write me off as a not a napa fan! Yet sometimes they have things nobody else does.

You wont have room between the springs and frame for the axle. Yes you could get it in there, but would be no room left for travel, frame would be sitting on the axle housing all the time.. I am in the middle of swapping out my rear end on my 49 truck. I pulled a rear end from a 52 plymouth. The plymouth sits on top of the springs, I figured to keep my truck a roller, would just put it in my truck on top of the springs. Esy peasy! yes it would temporarily be a low rider, but I would swap it around at a later stage. (I need to roll the truck from the back 40 to the shop, to get access to the welder) So anyways, this is exactly where am at, I have the plymouth rear end sitting next to the truck, I actually look at the two of them and is a real DOH! moment ... sure I might get it in there, but creating a plan B would be a better solution. On our trucks, the spring perches are on the out side of the frame, this allows the springs to be moved up closer to the frame, they still get full travel and truck does not sit to high. On the plymouth, the spring perches are on the bottom of the frame, this leaves lots of room to set the rear end on top and still have travel. You can see from the photo, I could get the rear end in on top the springs, by the time I got the weight of a bed on it, the frame would be resting on the axle.

This gas we get today is lousy stuff, get rid of it and use fresh. I had to rebuild a carb on a 1979 dodge truck this summer, when I took the float bowl off I thought might vomit. Was like gray guey sticky yuck! The truck rarely got driven for last several years, but gas did get added here and there, it did drive to town once in awhile, maybe twice in a year. But all the time they were just adding fresh gas to the old nasty gas that was still in the tank, making it all nasty. Yeah it was moved and parked just 3 months ago, but now it wont start. (was last summer) My uncle was a crying and complaining, was no fixing that carb and we need to buy a new carb ... it already has been taken apart and cleaned twice by two people! And I asked him why did you hook it back up to the dirty gas tank without cleaning it also? If the gas is questionable, if you added gas to it 6 months ago but it had gas in it from a year ago ...... just dump it and start fresh.

Kinda a lousy picture, you get the idea. I have same rims as you, they are off of a 60's - 70's dodge truck (I think) but they are 15" and 5.5" wide. They are a perfect size for a standard width radial tire. I have a chrome beauty ring on them and need to find the 9" dog dish hubcaps for center to complete them. But it is a look that I am going out of my way to create. Has been around Hot Rods forever and I think it is a good look for custom wheels. Not to flashy but not to drab either, cheap and easy to take care of. Just saying that I like your wheels, and is what I am going to run. Think I need to get them out of the living room first though I will toss in a photo of my old parts truck, it has stock 16" rims on it, 4.5" wide, You can see how center is different from what you have. I am going to clean them up and keep them close by. But for daily driver, what you already have is great.

Careful there, if you let that info out to to many people, everyone is going to want a pos ground flathead mopar!

Not everything can be repaired, but there could be a chance yours could be. Here is a video on lock and stitch repair, take a min and watch it, see if you could do the repair yourself. Also look at the website lock and stitch for more info. Welcome to the forum and good luck with your project. I would like to suggest you add your location to profile. First thing I did was look to see where you are, I may have a good block that a bearing went bad and it is seized up, I am sure it would need crank replaced ... maybe your crank would work. either way I am probably to far away for the block to do you any good. You can put in just about anything you want for a replacement, will require work and labor. I have not done it, but seems like almost everyone needs to fight with the steering box. Once you get past that issue, you have all the room you want. Now you need to change transmission, rear end probably brakes it just turns into a bigger project then originally planned. Nothing wrong with this, but it does cost money for all the changes, same money would go a long ways to putting the flathead 6 back in it with a few upgrades.

Thats great news. The 49 they are just gone, no interior door or window handles. I do have a set on the 52 parts truck that positive would work. But if given the choice, I like the spiffy plymouth handles, also checking out the plymouth cowl vent arm/handle. On the truck somebody came by and tried to force the rusted cowl open, broke the handle.

Thanks very much ggdad!

I feel a little silly here, but want to claim our ancestors were quite clever instead. Working on my dome light, I see no way to remove the lens. I would think that would squeeze the plastic lens and it would pop out. This one almost feels as if it is glass, or is a real thick plastic and not squeezing. Or maybe needs to be warmed up to be flexible? Any thoughts on how to dissemble this light for cleaning? Before I break it. Another question I have, removing door and window cranks. I was thinking to try needle nose vice grips, push the escutcheon back against the spring and clamp the pliers on the shaft to hold them back out of the way. What is actually holding the handle on? My truck has no handles on it, I see a square shaft with a hole in the end. Is it a pin that is driven through the handle / shaft, I just need to drive it out? Hoping I can figure it out when I get to it, just curious if any advice or tricks you guys like to use? Also wondering if the handles from the 52 suburban would fit my 49 B1C? They have some cool scroll work on them and would use them if they fit. as always, thanks in advance.

I am doing the same swap, I feel it will work, therefor it shall!

ok I gotcha now, I can pull that out and get pics. I pulled the front seat out so it would be easier to get up under the dash and pull gages etc... So while am in there will pull it out of my way.

OK I finally got to go over and play today. I took some photos, is flat out ugly. It all is in decent condition, but it is covered with some sort of under coating, same with the inner fenders and firewall. So here is a few photos, I want to say the whole thing is 3 pieces? The front has the blower, middle section has the heater core, is that heater core really 14" wide? Almost a second radiator. And the 3rd piece connects to the firewall. Is it the 3rd piece that you are making? Let me know if any more pictures would be helpful, If you point out a area or section for measurements I can get them for you. I also posted a picture of the under seat heater, was a hole cut in the floor, and the heater has a housing that drops in and is fastened to the floor. It is located directly under the driver, not sure I would like this.

Good thread, gives me ideas. One issue I need to fix, a previous owner welded the exhaust pipe to the draft tube. Some how need to cut and correct, maybe a pvc upgrade would look like it was planned and not a fix.

You might consider putting a stainless steel sleeve in them. But to answer your question, when I was a kid working in the shop, we left them in and honed them that way. Only time we removed them was when we were replacing with new because were to pitted to hone.