Los_Control

I have a question about selectrolux. This here is a 1952 B3B. Right next to the gas pedal rod, is a tag with mismatched screws on the floor. My google fu has let me down with this, I have searched in this forum and H.A.M.B. along with google, finding nothing bout selectrolux. there is a s, under the flathead screw. At this point, am thinking just a trick some old geezer did years ago, used the metal tag to hold down the padded flooring, Is up above us now laughing his butt off while I research this. Any input on this tag?

Been a long time since I have operated a 6 volt vehicle, assuming your is stock 6 volt. So I have been living vicariously through this forum to keep me entertained inbetween working on my 49 dodge. Which I plan to do today. Couple things that come to mind, a common problem is installing new battery cables for a 12 volt system. Might work for awhile, but not heavy enough cable to last. And then there was a article about the ground cable being attached to the generator from the factory. When the brushes wore so thin, no longer provided a proper ground. Replacing the brushes in the generator would cure this, but many just moved the ground to a new location. At least that is how I read the thread, maybe someone here can correct me. But a good cleaning on all 4 ends of 2 cables would not hurt anything. Good luck

The interesting thing about 6 volt to 12 volt conversions, 6 volt requires heavier wiring. Looking at your stock 6 volt battery cables, size should be 00, while 12 volt cables are pretty small and not adequate for 6 volt. All of your original wiring harness will be over sized for 12 volt, 6 volt requires larger heavier wiring. The 6 volt starter is the same way, it is built heavier then the 12 volt starter. I would use the 6 volt starter as long as it worked. If it wore out, I had a choice sitting on the bench with a 6 or 12 volt starter, I would grab the 6 volt again, and install it without giving it a second thought. To mr the 12 volt starter would be like a "get me by". I wanted the 6 volt, but this is all they had, so guess will use it.

I love the simplicity of a carb. which is why I love old trucks. My last work van, I drove for 10 years and was a old ford. Had a 500 holley 4 barrel, and I lived in Albuquerque NM. I lived in the valley and my Ford ran well, in the valley. If I had a job in the East end of town, at the foothills of the Sandia mountains. It ran like crap with the higher elevation. Head towards home and ran great again. Took a Sunday drive up to Sante Fe once, elevation is so high, I fouled 3 spark plugs just getting there. I prefer old trucks and carburetors, does not hurt to have a modern car around for the Mrs to drive.

IMHO, EFI has so many advantages over carburetors, for driveability the efi cant be beat by a carb. Will automagicaly adjust the fuel mixture when cold, return to normal as engine warms up. Will compensate for higher altitude as you climb mountains, provide you with best fuel economy and performance. A carburetor just kinda sits there and wags it tongue at you. Nothing like the character a good ol temperamental carb will provide.

What a mochine \o/

Thank you. I do plan to file for a lost title for it, my uncle bought it 25 years ago for parts and no title. I plan to take the original motor out and put in my other truck, So I would not want to title it with the engine number. And the 1949 truck does not have the original motor, so probably need to fix the title on that one as well ... always something!

Excuse me for asking in this thread, there is a lot of good info here. I have a 1952 truck that want to file for a lost title, I wonder if the trucks also have a Number on the frame, in the same location?

I just used the search term "dual carb manifold flat head 6" and first hit is summit. They sell 2 manifolds, one for the 23" blocks and one for the 25" block

I was thinking about the effort it would take for the intake. Probably easier to adapt a single newer 2 barrel carb, then all the machine work to build manifold for 2 single barrel carbs. Back in the day, they did not have the selection of carbs that we do now, was worth the effort to make the manifold.

Any chance there would be some written article/info on how to go about doing this? Love that early American Hot Rod look, even if not practical

Not me, but that would be a nice donor motor for the truck. I had the slant 6 in a early 60's 1 ton dodge, It had the 4 speed with granny gear. I bet there would be just about any flywheel, clutch , bell housing available for you. I have no idea what you will need to do to the motor mounts, sure it could be done.

I thank you for your time and effort in maintaining this great site.

That is really looking good, I think I may check into the soda blaster myself. Looking forward to watching this thread.

All great info, I am very happy Hagens is still around. I remember as a kid driving by and looking at all the cool stuff they had sitting around, and going there with my uncle a few times to buy parts. Of course I was only joking when I suggested we might be hoarding the sources for parts

And you expect us to remember where all those cotton pickin wires go? Surely you jest!

Just something to think about. Anytime you have two cylinders next to each other with exact same compression, and lower then the rest, they could be suspect for a leak between them. They would be connected through the warped head/bad gasket and share the exact same compression. And because of the higher volume of space of combined cylinders, the compression would be lower. And of course, could be nothing wrong, they just happen to be the same. Could be you just rounded the numbers off to 80, actually one was 79 psi and the other was 82 psi. These cylinders would be reading differently and not throw a red flag. And all this means to me, if I suspect some issue and doing a compression test looking for the issue, I would check those 2 cylinders multiple times to be positive they were constantly reading the same. Then when head was pulled, I would be looking very carefully at those 2 cylinders for some sort of trail.

As a newbie myself, I think that maybe nobody wants to reveal their sources. If you buy a part this week, sure enough they will need same part next week and they will all be gone. I myself just got a 1949 B1C and am wondering about brake shoes. I see Rockauto.com has some wheel cylinders and master cylinder, but not seeing shoes or drums. Am curious about what others are doing for these items.

Molly is a spinner \o/ I just put the hand crank through the grill and with the plugs out, turned freely.I do have a battery on a charger , never did install it. I saw that the ground wire was for a 12 volt system and not 6volt. And it was attached to the transmission, not where it belongs. I pulled the distributor cap and was going to clean and reset the points, it really looked so clean already I decided to leave it alone. Pulled the seat and looked at the rust on the floor, there is some but not as bad as I expected it to be. Realized it has the soft/firm adjustable seat, has the instruction .tag up above the windshield for it. Just a lot of tinkering and comparing notes between the 2 trucks. Just not sure when will get back to it, in the process of moving a 8'x20' building on the property, is sitting up in the air on blocks and a trailer ready to back under it. When the building is moved and back on the ground, then flower pot gets moved back to where the bed is, and then molly will be moved so is room to work on it. As is, just barely enough room to squeeze by it and a pita to do anything. But very pleased the motor is not froze up at all.

You guys crack me up Finish my coffee and on my way over to play, will be laughing all day!!!

That was my first impression, or maybe a stress crack that was common with these years. After reading this from Jeff, and thinking of the rust on the back of the cab. They are all inline with each other and basically floor height. I expect to find more surprises under there, when I get all the original flooring and rug up, seat removed and all cleaned and swept out. Water would get in through the broken glass, and sit on the floor in this area. Makes me concerned about the cab mounts to the frame back there. I am naive, in thinking this will just be work and a few extra steps to repair, the cab will be off anyways and all flat metal and easy to duplicate. As long as it is a solid welded patch panel, wont bother me if it does not look 100% original. Very few would be able to see it or tell the difference anyways. And I will need a area like this to practice on, before I tackle the rust on the bottom of the door skins.

I am also new to the forum, found it a great place for info. I read this article the other day and thought it was vert well put together. Was a good read.

How often does the opportunity come along, to remove and refurbish your floorboards? I would suggest, not nearly enough. I would welcome this chance, and you could remove your steering box/column while at it.

Myself, I would run straight water until all coolant issues were repaired. Water will boil faster then 50/50 antifreeze, but if it is overheating, again is a cooling system issue you need to deal with. No sense in wasting the antifreeze or allowing it to leak on the ground, where animals could drink the sweet tasting antifreeze and die.

Ok, game on! I let uncle settle down over the property dispute deal, and then approached him with the deal, trade my labor for molly. He is very pleased to do it, happy to see someone in the family fix it up. And save him some cash at the same time. The picture below is not molly, we will call it "flower pot" I will push it straight back where the bed is, and switch the bed off the frame onto flower pot. I checked the engine, and it is the original 1952 flathead, numbers start with T306, I will pull the motor to eventually put in the 49. I could use some ideas on what all to keep. Just plan on making it a roller, and the girl wants it for yard art, will never be driven again. Sometimes it would be real easy to forget a important piece that I may need later and very difficult to find. I plan to keep, motor, radiator, heater, maybe the fuel tank. I was also given another plymouth flathead 6 that was in the truck that the bed is coming from. Gives me 3 218 flathed sixes to work with. I pulled the plugs on molly today and put some oil in the holes, give it a couple days to do it's work, before trying to turn it by hand. I also found some more rust in the cab today, nothing to bad, just another thing to fix. Second photo is the newly found rust, When you close the door, you can see that cab corner move. It sits nice and flush and hard to see, for the photo I am actually holding it in my left hand and pushing it back to expose it. I just thought it was a odd place to rust myself.