Los_Control

I just bought a new rebuilt carb off Rock auto for cheaper then what it would cost to re-bush one ... ya-all figure out what works for you.

Sometimes we have to be detectives and look for clues on past history of our trucks. I am pretty sure my truck was over heating and is when they decided to park it. Looking at your truck ..... I get a detective feeling that it really has not been parked for 20 years. .... Maybe 10 years, I just do not have the feeling it is a stuck ring or valve ... especially if you drive it and it does not improve. .... How long did you spend rebuilding the brakes after it sat for 10+ years? My detective feeling is thinking all of us here are being kind, and wishing soaking it will help. I honestly do not think it will. Why I am suggesting soaking it like a big dog, Just so you have no undecided feelings as you open up the engine. I really think that is where you are headed .... I am not even sure if I drank 3 spoons of mmo ... would help me be regular in the morning. I am hoping you come back and tell us, A little oil and all is like new again. I just have this feeling, with all your other compression readings and the over all condition of the truck, you will soon get to take a peek at the insides of your motor.

` There is no right or wrong answer here. I used more, but my truck was parked between 10-20 years ... seller claimed 10 years and I think closer to 20 years. My worst cylinder had 60 psi. I feel I was lucky. And I also have a imaginary number in my mind, you need 60 psi to fire. I felt comfortable soaking it well, and then running it and soaking again. I think I soaked it 4 times and is up about 100 psi now and still lagging behind the rest but a big improvement. It is possible you do nothing and it starts to improve. You might add a few table spoons and it does the trick, you may find it does not. ... My suggestion is to use a funnel, and pour it in till it wont take any more on all cylinders ... maybe over kill, You wont hurt anything, and your engine will luv you for it ... By filling the cylinders up, just allows the rings to soak a little longer because sitting a few days the oil will all leak into the pan. But the 3 cylinders with valves open, the oil will overflow down into the valve train, when you rotate the engine 1/2 way and fill it again, now the other set of valves are open and getting lubed. ... On a old flathead that is exactly what you want. The valve stems are known to get gummed up and stick. ... Valve lifts up, cam goes around and valve stays up, the gummed up oil on the stems is stopping it from operating normally. Usually you get zero compression on a cylinder with a gummed up valve. But what happens if the valve is just pokey and needs proper lube to get it working correctly ...It is still possible it is the valves causing the main issue on #3 and not the rings. It is possible, you have a bad cylinder and only tear it down will repair it. So whats your plan, 3 spoons of oil for a week and see if it works .... then add more oil and see if it works ... and 3 months later pull it apart and find the issue? My plan to fill it & soak it, after a week and you have no improvement on #3 ... you are finished with that step, next step is to remove the head and the pan, and the piston/rod ... you will know then what is wrong. Just depends how long you want to mess with it. It is possible the truck was running and broke a ring and dropped a cylinder and and the ring dropped in the pan and damaged your oil relief valve ... so previous owner parked it, instead of fixing it ... soaking it is not going to help. FWIW, fix the oil relief and leave the piston & rod out, slap it back together and run it. I had a 1949 chevy with 5 cylinders, it ran and did it's job just fine.

That is curious, you have to have some play so the shaft will operate ... only way I know to tell if it needs bushings, spray some carb cleaner on the shaft with the engine running. If it sucks in and changes the idle, then it is sucking air and will cause drive-ability issues. I assume a original carb would get more miles before it wore out and needed bushed. Say 60k on original and 30k-40k on bushed? Just a opinion backed by no facts. I wonder if the softer metal bushing can be driven out and replaced with a new one, without enlarging the original drilled hole? Honestly I do not know, my first opinion is you can only bush them once, why I would want to wait until it actually is needed. Now I am thinking, why not just drive the old bushing out and replace? Dunno.

I think this is very good advice. I would go a bit further myself, And soak all the cylinders in marvel mystery oil is what I used, Or A 50/50 mix of ATF/Acetone is also a very good mixture. I would be concerned that at 20 psi compression, I question if the cylinder is firing or just going along for a ride, the excess fuel may wash the oil out of the cylinder and piston causing more damage. I think all 6 holes would get some benefit, even if you just soak #3, maybe 2-7 days, I bet you would see a good improvement. Get that cylinder up to 60 psi then drive it. The rings spin in the grooves as the pistons go up and down, just one happy merry go round ride. When they sit and the old oil gets gummed up, the rings get stuck in the grooves and they are not so happy, #3 is not happy at all. Also if you add the oil, let it sit for 2 days, rotate engine by half a turn by hand and add more oil, the excess is going down the valves lubricating the guides which is a bonus. The next bonus, all the oil is being pushed into the muffler, When you first start the truck, you will clear out every mosquito for a 2 block radius. You will need to change the oil after this, and as suggested above, try seafoam and see if will clear up the gummy oil relief valve.

I also enjoy Kieth's video's hope he keeps them up.

And dang proud of it! My only point with bushing a carb, it is fine and acceptable practice. Just like putting a sleeve in a cylinder block. You do it when it is your best option ... not just because you can. I would not want my engine rebuilder to punch out the factory bore on my block when all it needs is cleaned and honed and is in specs. I would not want a re-builder to put bushings in my low mileage carb that did not need them. But If carb was wore out and did need them, That's fine, get er did. I will look for a better core for future use.

Here is what I am doing, not sure if it is right or wrong. I like the choices of different materials ... using the thinner black rubber gasket for my gauges on the rear of the housing, then used the cork gasket for the glass ... there is 2 thickness of the cork gaskets, when I mount my marker lights, I think the thinner cork would work, but if needed I may use the thicker ... just playing it by ear as I go. Will be judging by how well the housings fit to the body ... same with the headlight buckets. Felpro 3060 Amazon sells for ~$10, If you find which one you like best, you can order just that kind from Amazon and get a bigger sheet at a better deal. I bought mine from local parts plus auto parts store. I have used all the different sheets for several projects not just my truck, but will need to buy more when I do start final assembly of the truck. One headlight bucket will just about use up one sheet, but the drop off from the center may do one or 2 marker lights. So is cost effective to just buy a roll of one size. But it is convenient to have the different material on the shelf when you need to make a gasket, and use it as a tool to decide what you will order.

My only point is, if the shafts need new bushings .... I assume there is 3 guys Left in the United states can rebuild a carburetor. Lets find the right one! This is wrong in so many .... If the carburetor is decent and works well, They would get a decent working carb in return. If you expect them to start drilling holes and adding bushings ... you will need to start a whole new thread. I bought my B&B carb rebuilt from Rock auto ... works good for me, just sucks for you as you think it is some rare piece.

Pretty sure, if you need to drill out the side of the carb and fabricate new bushings Absolutely this can be done ... by your machinist and not your carb re builder. What you are asking is a carb rebuilder to be a machinist and make magic for you. Not typically how life works ... Can it be fixed yes, who will do it .... probably the machinist ... yes they feed a family and like to eat also. People like to eat and feed their family, I doubt you get many calls back from your questions. Take your carburetor kit to your machinist, and ask them to do what is required ... not ask your carb rebuilder to do machine shop work. Figure it out, ... Any fool can put the parts in.

whole different story then someone asking $1500 for a set of wheels of rusty wheels with unknown outcome. They can have them sand blased and primered for a cheap price ... maybe $200? Then see if they are re-usable? They may at that time maybe ask more for them... as is just a pig in a poke and bad photos and out of country for bad delivery. I bet they have rust holes going all the way through them, they give poor pictures and hope some fool buys them.

My biggest problem with replacing them, I was ordering new wheel cylinders from DCM ... There was just to many options and sizes and reasons .... My dust seals were not bad so just kept them and re-used them, figure as a future daily driver will be re-visiting many areas anyways. Today looking at the rear brakes .... really pleased with what I see, looks like the rear axle seal was leaking, shoes look good, drums have minor wear on them ... will keep and reuse what I can, same time I expect it to be safe.

I was not going to say it .... I used wood blocks to straighten the metal after I pulled them ... clean and oil and put em back in use

This thread gave me the energy needed to pull out the new puller I bought off ebay several weeks ago. I just wanted to add a few observations now that I have pulled 1 drum and am a expert Happy with the tool, it took a couple min, I used a 3# sledge, I did not swing it hard, just let the tool do the work. Happy with the tool, bought it off ebay for $85-$90 plus shipping, Think it cost me $110 total. Is a Napa tool with a Napa part # ... no idea why was sold on ebay. Almost awkward like the tool is to big for the job, impossible I know, But if I had a 6 lug or 8 lug, or Ford 5 on 5.5 it would fit better. I had to leave my lug studs 1/4" loose to get alignment. I would prefer to snug them down. The most important thing I have to offer, stand to the side even when the axle nut is still on, when mine popped loose, the T handle flew off and hit the house. Would have been my ribs if standing/sitting in front of it. Because of the tight space I was sitting on the side of the tire and was spared. It does come loose with a bang!

Just be sure you are not following pictures in a book, where #1 plug wire is on the distributor cap. Put #1 where the rotor is pointing. If for some reason the oil pump was removed or replaced and the mechanic did not properly set the timing, follow procedure installing the oil pump, Your TDC on #1 will be in a different location then factory. I fought this issue myself, I pulled all my wires and threw them in the trash, pulled the distributor and did my magic with it ... put it all back together by the book with #1 at 7:00 o'clock and nothing. .... Finally I put it on TDC compression stroke on #6 because am lazy, then installed #6 wire where the rotor was pointing and installed rest of the wires from there ... I was now one step counter clockwise from what is factory, #1 is at 6 O'clock instead of 7 ... and it fired right up.

Sometimes all we can do is show them love .... Not everyone will walk through the door.

My last 57 was a 4 door wagon, Think I paid $75 for it, ran and drove and sold it for $200. Would not be bad to have another old car. I bought a used 67 polara, from a co worker, his father died and was left with estate to get rid of ... I paid $200 and had to rebuild the carburetor and replace the master cylinder to make it a solid daily driver ... Then I gave it to my father inlaw ... My mother was blind and worked at the Goodwill, met this retarded man and together they made a great team, They went on and bought a house together. He loved the car, 2 door 318 wedge bucket seats, center console with floor shift, white leather interior ... He did not keep it long because of gas mileage. Liked his old pinto wagon better. Last time I seen the car, had a refrigerator strapped to the roof and trunk was full of aluminum cans, news paper and scrap metal from his recycle route. Sigh

I guess I was just hoping you did not put me on ignore for this Who knows, someone will go home with a free car ... delivery was never talked about, I heard you show up and drive it away. Pretty sure I have no plans to drive from Texas to Canada and make a road trip with a unknown chevy back to Texas. While some will think it a adventure.

Sometimes you just need to bite the bullet and buy the right tool. These old drums are on tapered axels ... Even with the right tool, sometimes you may need to apply pressure to them then walk away and come back and use a hammer and apply more pressure. ... There is old stories where a guy would loosen the drum/axle nut, then drive in circles for a hour in a vacant field until they heard a loud pop where the drum popped loose. They were never easy to remove, even when new. While the driver was going in circles to get the drum loose, his buddy would be leaned over the fender adjusting the valves. Myth or fact, I dunno. You need a proper drum puller for the older cars, I bought mine off of ebay a month or so ago, not used it yet but is right tool for the job.

I know how badly PA wants a chevy, Thought I would share this free 1957 chevy give away. The only requirement to win the car is you subscribe to their channel. When they get to 57k subscribers, They will randomly pick one name from the subscribers and they win the car. Will it be fair, honest and legit? who knows. I been watching this guy for a little bit, watching him build a old model T that was used as yard art for years. He seems to be a decent fabricator ... what impresses me about him, is his energy. He works a full time day job, then comes home and works in his garage till 11:00 pm makes videos and gets up in the morning and does it again. He , unlike me, gets work done ? So a few weeks ago, he goes out to some field and buys this chevy, been sitting for years ... they were going to fire it up and drive it home ... for good video, they got it running and then it lost oil pressure, they trailered it home. Decent little old school hot rod, 327, double hump heads, 4 barrel, cam, headers, Turbo 400 trans. He had to drop the oil pan, found the old after market oil pump had failed, and replaced it with a new high volume pump ... runs good now. Today he has 34k subscribers, gained 10k in last week, he quickly is heading to 57k, Rebuilding the rusted floors and rockers, new carpet and seats upholstered, interior repaired. rebuild the front end and add disk brakes. already has new tires ... will be a perfect beater with a heater for @Plymouthy Adams So please subscribe to the channel and lets help our old friend PA out.

Pretty sure the Romans burnt any book that would help us.

I wish you the best of luck ... just sad that some watch TV and think $2k is a acceptable starting point. Sure wish they would stick their money where their mouth is, and rebuild and sell themselves. They have no plan for that.

Am I wrong? car in that condition, $500 ... Just a joke they have a car with blown out glass that is easy to replace, It allows weather in the car that creates a lot of damage. If they think that rust bucket is worth $2k ... I hope they send it to the crusher and get $2 for the metal. The only value that car has is for the next person is willing to put in on it. If it was a chevy or a ford, every part is cheap and delivered to your door. ... A mopar that thing will need more money invested, then what finished car will sell for. Takes a special kinda fool to build a mopar.

To me it sounds like a poor ground wire or whatever it is that grounds the tail lights. To me this is a perfect learning moment .... yeah the lights work but not as good as I think they should. Good time to go through your ride and clean and replace, repair all grounds on your car. Really not that many, You can add a couple extra ... You will find your lights work better, your starter works better, engine may run better ... Positive ground system, really is important to keep all grounds clean. I think positive ground system is good, and possibly should be standard today ... possibly just some big corps that forced the system to negative ground. Just saying, nothing wrong with your positive ground system, it probably needs a little love.

Good point ... the shovel strips, is either tight against the metal, or loose because of missing wood. I would assume if the strips are flip flopping around, originally they had wood under them to hold them tight. If the strips are tight against the metal, Is possible but unlikely, someone went in after the wood rotted away and tightened the strips.