grea235

I got it at an antique store. It's a mini pool ball. I drilled it with a forstner bit, ground down a nut and epoxied it in.

I have a 52 Concord Fastback. You can tell by the hood ornament too, a 52 is round, not a crest. If mine were closer to stock I would have absolutely left it alone, but it had a lot of work done to it, so I added to it. Motor (p23) is in the shop for a rebore. All the top rings were broken and the #6 was scored. I just put in a double din radio and a backup cam. The radio plate was already botched up. I have an original if I ever take it out. Transmission had a plug in the backup switch location so it was as easy as finding a backup switch. I messed around with lowering it but it rode

I can't help very much, but I just pulled one with the same casting number from a 1952 Plymouth Concord 2 Door Fastback. I believe that the 'short' tailshaft is for the short wheel-based cars. I don't know about trucks though.

I ordered a glass kit for my p22 from Bobs Classic Auto Glass. For mine they had clear or green tint. I got a kit because I took my drivers door window to a local shop thinking that I would support local businesses and they wanted 260 for two door windows, safety glass. The kit was 425, so it was more cost effective. The glass I received looks good and matches the originals so far. They may do individual pieces. Andy Bernbaum lists individual glass, but I passed on it because the kit was cheaper.

Just like my homemade fender skirts, I made wood bucks, two for the traps, and covered then with a couple layers of fiberglass. I used aluminum foil as a release layer. I let it overhang and trimmed it flush with shears. The pod covers were just attached to the hoops with stips of fiberglass and resin. They weren't heavy at all so it was enough to hold them on.

I know it's not car related, but my welding is ok for projects.

First, I would like to thank everyone on this forum for all their help. I've worked on several areas of the car now and your posts, suggestions and solutions have been a huge help. This is long, but we have more time on our hands now unfortunately. Finished a dual carb project on my 1952 Concord. I wanted to get it in and working before I pull the motor to replace leaking seals. This way I know I can get the manifolds in and out with no problems and I know that the setup works in case other things change when I do the motor work. Got an Offenhauser 2691 ma

This may or may not help. I just wired in a turn signal into my 52 Concord. I made a schematic for it. I replaced the wires, so i don't have the original color codes, sorry. It was funny...when I first wired it up, my brake lights didn't work. Then it dawned on me, I looked at the front of the car then stepped on the brakes and my front lights came on. Switched the wires front to back and everything worked fine. The attached schematic is what I ended up with. My labeling is different tho.

Thank you!

Decided to make my own fender skirts for my work-in-progress 1952 Plymouth Concord. The price of 350ish for a reproduction set is too much and, from my experience with VW repop parts, they probably wouldn't fit. I tried fabric from a dress and drove around with it. I liked the pattern but it flapped around too much. Boy, was my granddaugher mad when she found out I used her dress!! Just kidding. The real skirts are made from fiberglass from a wood \foam mold. I flatted out the fender lip in two spots at the top and on the sides and drilled them with 1

Could you split the difference and put in 2 inch lowering blocks in the back and stiffer springs up front to get it higher? I have a 52 Concord and I recently tried some moog cc850 springs. About $60 on ebay. They were shorter than the originals, but after putting them in, it sat about 2 inches higher because they were stiffer. For reference, the moogs were about 12" high. Increasing the height in the front may make it 'boat' in front. I resolved my boating by putting in 'F1 Shock mounts'. I got them from Speedway Motors - 1948-52 Ford F1 Forged Upper

Thank you for that Mr. Buchanan. It is working ok at the moment, but I am pulling the motor in a month or so to do some work on the motor and I will be changing the front motor mount. A new front mount may affect the reverse, so at that time I will more than likely need to adjust the rod. I really appreciate the diagram!

I have been experiencing the same issue with mounts on my 52 Concord. I was changing them because it wouldn't go into reverse on a decline. Got uppers and lowers from Bernbaum. My car had no lowers...don't know if they were removed or not. Put them in and got a lot of vibration, but got reverse back. I had to slacken the bolts to where they were just barely tight to get the vibration to go away. I wasn't comfortable with the barely tight bolts and figuring that the rubber was too hard, I ordered the A2014 Marmon mounts from Rock Auto. I received them yesterday and what I got

I used a 6 1/2 inch one from speedway motors and gabriel 81676 shocks. Thanks for the info on the springs, at least I won't be too high.

I've driven the car around town and on the freeway after the shock mounts and shocks were installed for a month or so and it really stopped the boating of the front end around the corners and is a lot more stable. It had a sway bar, so I couldn't tell you if a sway bar helped or no. I had previously put on new rear leaf springs because they were flat, new shocks and 2 inch lowering blocks because the back sat a little too high. If the springs relax some, I will take them out. I am very happy with this part of the suspension changes. I do have a little problem with speed bump