JerseyHarold

Pull out a headlight and see what voltage it is.

If your Dodge fenders are attached the same as Plymouth, the rear of the fender has bolts accessible from inside the trunk, and the bolts for the front half of the fender (towards the rear door) are reached from the outside in the wheelwell. Don't forget to disconnect the taillight wires and if it's the driver's side you may have to wiggle the fender off the gas filler pipe grommet. Those free Harbor Freight flashlights come in very handy for looking around!

Posting to alert any '53 Plymouth fans out there. I watched the movie 'The Founder' on video last night. It is the story of Ray Kroc, who transformed a local hamburger stand into the McDonald's chain we have today. His car was a '53 Belvedere and it was on-screen a lot. The movie itself was well done and entertaining (IMHO). Worth watching if you have the time. Harold

The wagon video really captures the essence of the car. I, too, came home from the hospital in one (well, almost...it was a '52 Cambridge)

The horn button and rubber gasket all the way around the windshield makes it a Cambridge. The Mayflower emblem above the ash tray makes it a '51. The sure-fire way to pin it down is by the Vehicle Number located near the hinge on the driver's door post.

FWIW, the ignition lock cylinder is the same from about 1947-1967. Any parts store can get you one.

I wired a relay into the starter circuit on an automatic transmission car so that the engine wouldn't crank unless the cigarette lighter was pushed-in. It drove the repair shop guys crazy. You could also take the lighter with you for added security.

Very clever!

I knew someone years ago who fixed car floors using multiple layers of window screening and roofing tar. It took a while for the tar odor to dissipate, but the repair was sturdy and long-lasting.

Welcome to the forum. Beautiful Plymouth! Does the engine crank faster after it is warmed-up? If so, you may have a heavy weight oil in the crankcase that slows the starter when it's cold.

The only place we consistently shop at is the supermarket and they have one of those ripoff coin counter machines (about 12% fee!). They won't want rolled coins from me. I've seen those coin-roller devices and they're a good idea. We've like to count and roll the coins by hand on the kitchen table. On a somewhat related note, when is the last time anyone found a real silver dime or quarter in your change? We got a silver quarter about 3 months ago and it was the first one in several years.

Lately we've been carrying change and are splitting our smaller purchases into a few singles and the rest in coins. The cashiers may not like it, but the change jar is getting emptier.

I'd join the AAA or similar organization that has road service and towing. One mishap and the membership pays for itself.

My wife asked and there is a fee even if you deposit the coins into your account.

Seems to be the norm here in Jersey. The bank we deal with was originally free for customers, then they got rid of the coin machines in most branches, and now they charge everybody to use them. We get a discounted ripoff fee because we're customers. Whoopee!

I have about $50.00 worth of coins and none of the places I've tried (bank, Wal-Mart, supermarket) will take them without charging a fee, whether rolled or loose. This really bothers me since you are essentially selling your coins to a bank/store at a loss. Are there alternatives besides paying for everyday purchases with coins? Does anyone know banks that don't charge for taking coins (especially in New Jersey)? Any ideas appreciated. Harold

Watch out about donating to a museum. I've heard that many of them stipulate that they have the right to sell the vehicle after a few years, so your car ends-up with a 'buyer' anyway, except you don't see any money.

A thoughtless imbecile almost ruined your night. Glad you dodged the bullet.

The casting date is December 10,1954, which would be correct for a '55 engine. The D and N refer to day shift or night shift, and the 1616823 is the casting number (which may or may not correspond to the part number), and '-4' refers to which mold was used in the foundry (#4, in this case). HTH

Would hitting the area you want to weld with a heat gun have any positive effect?

I met Bob once or twice at the Rhinebeck show in New York, and communicated occasionally over the years. Sorry to hear he's declining this way. My thoughts are with him and his family. Harold

Oil changes at real gas stations don't guarantee things will go well. Years ago, I had our local Mobil station change the oil in my wife's car. They said the head was stripped on the original drain plug and installed a universal rubber plug that would be replaced with the proper one at the next oil change. Next day, my wife called from her office to say there was a puddle of oil under her car. The plug popped out. I called the Mobil station and was promptly disconnected, so I called the Chevy (sorry if it's a dirty word!....) dealer and had them tow the car to their shop. I had to leave work in Manhattan, go home to Staten Island, and drive to her office in Northern NJ to get her after work. Luckily there was no engine damage; the dealer installed a new plug and refilled the oil. The gas station guy refused to pay the bill, so I contacted Mobil directly (their main office was around the corner from where I worked so I went there in person). I explained that I wanted the dealer's bill reimbursed or I'd take legal action. A week later I had a check from Mobil.

Have you checked with local Maaco's? There must be at least one in your area. Dent and rust repair is well within their scope of work, but weatherstripping and window fuzzies may be beyond their comfort zone. I'd ask to see some completed jobs because quality varies shop-to-shop. A number of collectible cars in my area (Monmouth County, NJ, about 50 miles from Brooklyn) were done by Maaco and they look good.

NIce lantern at a bargain price.

Many happy returns!