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buddy123

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  • Content Count

    10
  • Joined

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About buddy123

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge Deluxe

Converted

  • Location
    Great Barrington, MA
  • Interests
    Outdoor kinds of stuff mostly

Recent Profile Visitors

68 profile views
  1. Ok, nothing unusual then , thanks Sniper.
  2. Thanks for the pics that wire was what was missing on my Dodge. can you guys run through the proper starting procedure For me one more time when I follow what the original owners manual describes, it’s reluctant to start thanks again
  3. Excellent, now I understand. Thank you very much Be well
  4. Thanks Plymouthy now I understand the starting procedure, but where is the solenoid and the wire supplying voltage from The starter ? I don’t see either one on my car thanks again
  5. My ‘48 Dodge Deluxe, with a Stromberg carb is difficult to start cold. Ok when warm. When cold the choke is 75 to 80 percent closed. If I close it all the way, she leaps to a start. after reviewing this thread, it seems that there should be a solenoid on the choke activated by the starter that closes the choke 100 % on cold startup I don’t see any thing like that and no wire from the starter to the choke. The manual choke adjustment directions make no reference to a solenoid. Although these directions to say to adjust choke until choke blade is closed tight Any suggestions. thanks guys
  6. I'm in the process of cleaning and rebuilding the BXVD carb. I bough the kit from Roberts Mopar Parts, cleaned the carb up, but, I'm at a loss as to what to do with the accelerator pump leather and little round spring that goes under the leather. I'd like to replace both and the kit did include a replacement round leather part, but no replacement spring. So how would I replace that leather piece and what about the round spring? Thanks in advance for any guidance you can give.
  7. Thank you Don, that was it. Push down on the clutch for the last inch.
  8. One more question on this repair. Any tricks or tips to replacing the transmission. The fluid drive and clutch is back on , but the transmission does not seem to want to go into the fluid drive unit all the way. The transmission gets hung up about an inch from being completely inserted back in thanks
  9. Yup, that was it! That unevenly spaced pattern for the studs was not obvious at a quick glance. Thanks for the quick reply. Also, the old rear main seal was a neoprene type. It appeared to be worn and rock hard, but it did not have either a top or bottom gasket. I'm thinking that was the cause of the oil leak that made this whole repair necessary. thanks again
  10. My local garage is replacing the rear main seal in my Dodge D24. Transmission came out ok, clutch and fluid drive came out ok. Rear main seal top and bottom went smoothly. Problem has become replacing the fluid drive unit. They removed the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate off of the fluid drive. However, they are having trouble getting the fluid drive mounted back on the engine. It just doesn't seem to fit back in. Can't get the studs lined up to slide the unit back into place. Some part of the fluid drive unit seems to be blocked by the bell housing. Any thoughts? thanks guys
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