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Dan Heston

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About Dan Heston

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1951 Dodge Coronet Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Live in Arizona, building the 51 for my son.

Converted

  • Location
    Arizona
  • Interests
    Old stuff

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  1. Okay everyone, VICTORY is ours. We have an original 1951 Coronet flathead 230 successfully turning a Sanden AC compressor. Not much of a drag on the motor either. As stated earlier, we had added a double groove pulley to the water pump thinking the original crank, water pump, alternator belt could remain unchanged. The AC compressor was stopping the spin of the water pump pulley. We tried belt dressing to sticky it up, to no avail. We decided we would try to put one really long belt on all four components. The belt is crank/water pump/compressor/alternator now. No slipping o
  2. Here you go. I added a few pics of where we are in the install. When the compressor doesn't bind the torque of the engine, it spins great and the evap blows at 38 degrees. The compressor is run off a double water pump pulley (converted chevy pulley) and the back belt still snakes from the crank, over the water pump, and to the alternator. I am going to try a long belt over all four pieces to see if that may work. Give me your wisdom. That's what I need. Thanks. 1a.pdf 2a.pdf
  3. Hello all, my son and I added a Vintage Air Heritage under dash system to his '51 Coronet flathead. We got it working and blowing all the way down to 38 degrees. We used a Spal pusher fan in front of the condenser and had to take off the engine fan as it would hit the compressor. We have a Champion aluminum radiator on order, which should help with our "running hot" issues, but I wanted to see if anyone has had success in adding AC to their flathead. We have a little bit of binding (only sometimes), which keeps the water pump pulley from turning. Any help is welcomed. Dan
  4. I was able to use the diagrams and photos to figure out the placement of the two wires (not including the condenser wire) in my distributor. I was getting a spark from the end of my spark plug wires and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't fire. My distributor wasnt pulled out so I knew the shaft was still in alignment. I tested the .020 gap and found that it had moved on me. Remember to lock down the screw after the adjustment screw is turned. She fired right up. Gapping sure is important, that's the lesson of the day.
  5. Here's what I have. Hopefully this helps my previous explanation. As seen, I need to find out where the small wire goes. Thanks everybody. The owner of the car, my 13 yr, will be super happy.
  6. Hello everyone. I made a huge mistake and pulled the guts out of my distributor without taking pictures where the wires went to. I thought I would remember but obviously that didnt happen. I have the new points added but can't finish. I'm hoping someone could pull their cap off and take some up close photos of the guts and wires. The pics I have found online don't help me much. Thank you so much for any help you can offer. -Dan
  7. I love the look of the red motor.  I notice the absence of a radiator fan.  I assume you have a pusher electric fan in front of the radiator?

    1. bones44

      bones44

      Yes, a 16" pusher.

  8. I've heard that some people will use small rivets every 6" or so to attach them too. Any thoughts on that? It would just make it so I could buy another tool so that's good.
  9. Thank you very much for the info. I think stapling is my last resort. I'll go to that sweep manufacturer and buy a few lengths. For the outside sweeps there are tiny little clips so the only staples are on the sweeps attached to the painted inside window trim.
  10. The 51 is coming along nicely. We just cleaned up the old busted out glass from the bottom channels and got it ready for the new side glass kit that I bought from Balls Vintage Glass in Florida. I got a quote for $1200 from a glass shop here in Arizona that specializes in vintage installs and I decided to do the job solo. So I got the mechanisms greased and its smooth. I fitted the glass in the lower channels and because I left the original C channel in the car (glad I did now) the windows are fairly tight when rolled up. So here's the question, the old sweeps were stapled in.
  11. Thanks @Hickory, we love her. Her name is Sharlene, after the dear friend and woman who owned her. My son and I are getting through a complete rewire project. We built our own harness and have added a few things along the way too.
  12. That's a good point. Is there a good conversion kit for front discs on these old rides?
  13. Dodgeed, I really hope my boy keeps this one for a long time too. I would prob buy it from him if he ever talked of getting rid of it. Currently, we are going through a rewire and 12v conversion of the car now. I am trying to find a new ignition switch for it. The original one has a metal tube containing an affixed wire inside and the tube extends through the firewall. The NOS switches don't have that so I'm hoping they'll work. Any insight?
  14. Well, that sucks. The wire is frayed right at the end of the conduit and I need to replace it all, all the way back to the switch. I hope to get the back plate off like the pictures above. Hopefully I won't have to mangle any of the switch housing to do the job. Thanks. Dan
  15. Also, I need to see if anyone knows if the ignition switch wire that is inside the metal tube is replaceable on the 51 Dodge Coronet? It would seem that the metal tube would detach from the back of the switch if so.
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