Jump to content

Dan Heston

Members
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Dan Heston

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1951 Dodge Coronet Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Live in Arizona, building the 51 for my son.

Converted

  • Location
    Arizona
  • Interests
    Old stuff

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hey Plymouthy Adams, I wanted to give you our latest flathead decision as you are where we were just a few months ago, Sept 2020. My son and I are building a 51 Coronet Coupe for his high school ride and he wanted to keep it as nostalgic as possible. For that reason, we scrapped the V motor idea and kept the flathead 230. Basically, we rebuilt it in our garage. Now I will say that there was a learning curve but lots of help came from the awesome brains in this forum. If there is any reason to keep what you have, I believe it is originality and the nostalgia if that means anything to you.
  2. My 15 year old and I just finished rebuilding our 230 flathead and got it back in the Coronet. Got it started and...no oil pressure. We realized that we didn't have the oil pressure valve in place. We bagged and tagged each piece as it came off the block before it was sent to the machine shop. We believe the valve must have still been stuck in place by the old oil sludge, and we didn't think anything of it at the time. Needless to say, we are now without a valve plunger and there are no reproductions or eBay items around. ANy help from anyone would be really good. Hoping someone has one
  3. Thank you all so much for the quick replies on these questions. Very helpful for sure.
  4. I've tried to upload photos but they seem to all be too big. Shouldn't my cap sit flush to the block?
  5. We are now rebuilding our 1951 Dodge flathead 230 after the machine work was completed. We have the Best Gasket 3685 rubber seal for the rear main. That kit comes with small pieces of rubber in the shape of an "h". The rear journal seams to fit nicely so I can't help but think that the h rubber isn't needed. Can someone help me figure this out?
  6. Very good. So it sounds like the entire cluth and fluid drive mechanism comes out together?
  7. Are the nuts that hold the clutch to the flywheel accessed from the front side of the flywheel?
  8. Are the nuts you are referring to connecting the clutch to the flywheel on the front edge of the flywheel? I cod get an open end wrench in there.
  9. The total cost was approximately $1400.
  10. My son and I decided to rebuild the tired 230 in our Coronet and we pulled it without any problems. We still have the motor on the hoist because we can't get the bell housing off to put the engine on the stand. We have a 1-7/8 nut in the middle of the clutch that would ultimately allow our access to the flywheel. Can't keep the clutch plate from spinning to remove it. Any help and advice is welcomed. This pic is taken from the back of the bell housing.
  11. Okay everyone, VICTORY is ours. We have an original 1951 Coronet flathead 230 successfully turning a Sanden AC compressor. Not much of a drag on the motor either. As stated earlier, we had added a double groove pulley to the water pump thinking the original crank, water pump, alternator belt could remain unchanged. The AC compressor was stopping the spin of the water pump pulley. We tried belt dressing to sticky it up, to no avail. We decided we would try to put one really long belt on all four components. The belt is crank/water pump/compressor/alternator now. No slipping o
  12. Here you go. I added a few pics of where we are in the install. When the compressor doesn't bind the torque of the engine, it spins great and the evap blows at 38 degrees. The compressor is run off a double water pump pulley (converted chevy pulley) and the back belt still snakes from the crank, over the water pump, and to the alternator. I am going to try a long belt over all four pieces to see if that may work. Give me your wisdom. That's what I need. Thanks. 1a.pdf 2a.pdf
  13. Hello all, my son and I added a Vintage Air Heritage under dash system to his '51 Coronet flathead. We got it working and blowing all the way down to 38 degrees. We used a Spal pusher fan in front of the condenser and had to take off the engine fan as it would hit the compressor. We have a Champion aluminum radiator on order, which should help with our "running hot" issues, but I wanted to see if anyone has had success in adding AC to their flathead. We have a little bit of binding (only sometimes), which keeps the water pump pulley from turning. Any help is welcomed. Dan
  14. I was able to use the diagrams and photos to figure out the placement of the two wires (not including the condenser wire) in my distributor. I was getting a spark from the end of my spark plug wires and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't fire. My distributor wasnt pulled out so I knew the shaft was still in alignment. I tested the .020 gap and found that it had moved on me. Remember to lock down the screw after the adjustment screw is turned. She fired right up. Gapping sure is important, that's the lesson of the day.
  15. Here's what I have. Hopefully this helps my previous explanation. As seen, I need to find out where the small wire goes. Thanks everybody. The owner of the car, my 13 yr, will be super happy.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use