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Wes Flippen

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  • Content Count

    27
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About Wes Flippen

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge Coronet

Converted

  • Location
    Dover, TN
  • Interests
    cars, woodwoorking

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Electrical superintendent

Recent Profile Visitors

467 profile views
  1. Check e-bay. There's usually quite a few old Mopar blank keys on there.
  2. Keith, Just finished an in-car overhaul on my '50 Coronet. I don't envy you replacing the valve guides. That was the absolute biggest pain in the *$$ part of the whole process. Guides that have been in a block for 70 years don't seem to want to leave their home. But after a LOT of swearing and finding a Bishman 810 Valve Guide Remover tool on e-bay, I got 'em out. Had to drill them first, then used a length of stainless 5/16 all-thread to replace the steel bolt on the tool, as the pressure ripped the threads off the steel bolts long before the guide let go. Wes
  3. Got it. Seems as if I had swapped the caps for the #1 and #6 rods. Must have been just enough wear difference in the bearings to cause binding. Spins okay now.
  4. I re-installed the existing rods and bearings, as they showed no appreciable wear. I numbered everything when I took them out, but that's not to say I didn't get one swapped by mistake. Cleaned and lubed the bearings when I re-installed.
  5. Checked gaps, They were actually about .002 over spec, so I didn't gap any more. Pistons went into cylinders fairly easy, just light taps with hammer handle. Crank got more difficult to turn as each piston was installed. After the second piston, I could no longer turn it with the fan. I guess my next course of action is to remove the rod caps and check that the bearings are all properly in place. May just try bumping it with the starter to see if it'll turn over.
  6. Just did an in engine overhaul. Valves, guides, pistons and rings. Used standard size pistons and rings. Torqued rod caps to 50 ft lbs per manual. Engine seems really tight now. Even with the head still off, I had to use a 3 ft breaker bar on the crank shaft to get it to spin. Used assembly lube for new valves and wrist pins and dipped pistons in oil before installing. Any thoughts? Wes
  7. Had the exact same issue with my '50 Coronet, ran great up to about 30-35, then started missing terribly. Removed points and installed a pertronix, no more problems. I believe the springs in the points plate were worn and to be honest didn't want to be messing with points. Wes
  8. Got this valve for my '50 Coronet. Works great. A little pricey, but not as expensive as some have said they found. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Heater-Control-Valve-1688946-fits-Dodge-Chrysler-Plymouth-DeSoto-1955-1956/112176543764?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Wes
  9. If I'm not mistaken, the heater control valve has a bi-metallic spring which adjusts the amount that the valve opens based on temperature in the cabin, which the capillary tube senses.
  10. Stromberg made a carb fro the M6 transmission as well. I believe the number is BXVD-3, (or close to that) I bought a Stromberg for my 50 Coronet with the M5 transmission, and I think the number was BXVD(without the extra number) Hope this helps.
  11. I have a '50 Coronet. Front seat cushion just lifts out. It's wedged in pretty good, but it will come out. To put it back in, I usually use a plastic pry bar along the front to ease it back down into the skirt.
  12. Don't have the gyromatic in my Coronet, but sounds like your RPMs may be too high. Your RPMs should be around 450 at ide.
  13. I use a voltmeter. Didn't like the high amperage of an ammeter flowing behind the dash. I did however strip down a voltmeter and mounted it using the original ammeter gauge. Reads backwards, but tells me that my alternator is charging properly.
  14. Sounds like your floats are set too high, overfilling the bowl. Had the same problem after I rebuilt my carb.
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