dpollo

Top picture 49 Bottom picture 50 with tin cover missing

That wheel might be for a '49 but as mentioned above, the 50 and later wheels had a press-on cover at the column side which when removed, allowed the installation of the custom turn signal and canceling mechanism. If you wish to close the gap, have a muffler shop cut a piece of exhaust tubing and expand it so it slides snugly over the column. Then measure it carefully, and cut it so it just clears the steering wheel. When all is right, use a little JB weld to hold it in place. That way it can be removed at a later date if needs be.

The Hy Drive transmission is the same --- so far as gaskets are concerned---- as any other standard Plymouth transmission of that year. Your real challenge will be to get the right seals that go between the adapter plate and the engine. This may be simple ---as I recall as they are just O rings ---- but it has been over 45 years since I looked at one. The shaft seal for the Hydrive's torque converter is another matter entirely. If it is not leaking now, then leave it alone until you get further advice.

behind the face of your speedometer is a unit which is shared with other Chrysler products of that year and also 1940. In fact there was a replacement works made which allowed the odometer to be placed either above or below the needle shaft so this could be used on 41 to 48. My guess would be that the little cogs are the same in almost all of these.

Back in the sixties I used to tell my friends that they should never knock a Stovebolt Chev as they would eventually knock all on their own. However, at this late date the inherent weaknesses of each company's designs are well documented. It was our duty as teenagers to find these weaknesses and we all worked hard at it. That a car of the late 40s/ early 50s has survived this long has to be some sort of tribute to its manufacturer. I am now on my fourth 50 Plymouth in over 50 years and have covered at least 300 000 miles under all weather and road conditions. I have never tired of driving this particular car with its (to my eye) good looks, gorgeous dashboard and unsurpassed reliability. Rust killed the first three but the present one is never exposed to salty roads. It should outlast me. Good luck.

Foaming glass cleaner works well to. It is very difficult to install glass without some sort of lube. As I recall, the D24 windshield pane is installed from inside the car. Shop manual is a Must.

The part you are referring to is called a starting jaw and it is in effect a bolt which secures the crank pulley. Why would you need a longer bolt, unless the threads in the crankshaft are stripped? If this is the case, you really have a problem. If you had a good Starting Jaw, you could make the threads go deeper into the crankshaft by lathing off some of the flange of the jaw and assembling without a washer.

I can vouch for Rhode Island, but the M 6 or Tip Toe has only about 3 wires, it is pretty simple to make.

I used the top motor from a mid sixties convertible in my 51 Plymouth. It is a 12 volt motor but runs just fine on 6 volts. I figure that because of the larger diameter top cylinders, the motor does not have to work as hard. The top rises and falls just as it was intended to and I have had no trouble in 30 plus years.

Why would you want to replace one of the better independent front suspensions ever designed and manufactured for something worse ? Better sway bars, possibly better shock absorbers and perhaps an equal length tie rod system is all anyone would need. All I have ever needed in over 50 years of driving these cars is that all components are in good shape and the alignment is on specs. These cars are Chrysler's products and for their time were superior. They are still good today.

The front bearing can be changed without removing the input shaft. If the transmission worked well, I would just change the bearing and not go in any further for now. Some play is normal. So long as the pilot bushing is good, there will be no problem. If possible, use a new retainer clip when you reassemble. If not, make sure this clip is fully seated.

I am sorry. I did not realize your car was a wood bodied station wagon. I just now read the information at the left . I will not offer any further comment.

You may find the missing piece in the bottom of the door. without the door check function, it would be easy to make.

I got a new kit in an unopened box. Nice artifact. I will keep it in my showcase for some future project.

There were many heater options available. In 46 to 48 Comfort Master was popular (models 503 and 504 as I recall.) also many aftermarket heaters were available. Some did not have water controls except for a shut off usually mounted at the rear of the head.

Only 1941. The 40 is similar but the park light is much smaller and so is the fender opening.

That sticky stuff was called Cosmoline .

Those are certainly for the six cylinder.

I put a 72 slant six with 904 torqueflite and a 8 3/4 3.23 rear from a full size Dodge into a 50 Plymouth Club Coupe. I used a rear sump pan from a van. This would be back in 76 and I last ran that car about 1988 after many miles. I later swapped that 225 into a 68 Valiant and used that until about 2000. I think the engine had about 150 000 miles of use when I sold the Valiant. All my cars are now flathead powered, a 201, a 217, a 230 and two 251s. I am preparing a fresh 230 for a 52 Dodge D40 Kingsway Convertible. Although it looks like a Canadian car, this model was built in Detroit for export. Unfortunately the speedometer was missing so I do not know if it was in Kilometers. Every one is quite satisfactory. The 201 is no ball of fire in the 40 Plymouth coupe but as the car is all original with 73 000 miles and the engine has good compression, I am content to leave it alone even though I have to add a quart of oil in 250 miles. I built a stock 265 for a friend's 50 Plymouth and performance was impressive. He tore up two transmissions and a rear end which rarely happens otherwise. In my 50 and 51 Plymouths and my 52 Fargo, I have installed R10 overdrives . Each has a 3.9 ratio in the rear. The 40 also is 3.9 but the 35 has a 3.7. The 52 D40 came with overdrive and has a 4.3 ratio which I will likely change to 3.9. " Positive ground six volt six cylinder and a flat head is the norm around here "

I have seen a similar unit where twelve volts was obtained by using two six volt batteries in a series but the switch put them in parallel for six volt running.

Brake systems retain a slight pressure when at rest. When this subsides, the master and wheel cylinder cups may leak. This is why it is a good idea to stroke the pedal every few months. Before you tear into it, refill the master cylinder. Chances are good your brakes will return after the air at the MC end is released through the relief port. This does not mean the rest of the system should not be checked out.

On the 39 and 40 these were used to fasten the throttle linkage assembly above the distributor 2 needed. The third may have been for an air cleaner brace.

The seal size is the same. Both the rope and the neoprene ones work just fine. Be sure to put some gasket sealer where the halves meet.

a 23 inch 218 uses a 4 bolt flywheel. so does the 201. These will fit the 8 bolt flywheel but you may have a situation where you get only partial engagement of the starter drive.. there are several relatively easy remedies which have been covered on this forum.

I would do a 230 or a short 218 rather than the 201. The parts are easier to get and the 201 is a little light in the bearing area. The truck engine may be the best bet but it depends on its overall condition and how many times it has been rebuilt already. The passenger car engine is a lot newer and may have had an easier life. Both engines can be bored as much as .o80 and the crankshafts can be ground to .030 but my personal preference would be .040 on the bore and .010 on the crank. Costs would be the same for both. The 201 was last built in 1941 and pistons and bearings will be harder to source.