Mr Bee

Yes, I would prefer to broadcast to the AM radio. I agree, there's not much on AM anymore. I currently broadcast to my FM radio in my current F150 and it works perfectly.

I'm just bringing in the photo of the C-1608 that Ivan provided a link to for future reference. This is the actual radio chassis without the decorative grill faceplate.

Thanks for the tips Rich. I like the idea of hiding the antennas under the running boards! I'm not keen to put a hole in my fender. Also thanks for your contact info...I just may have to get back to you should I find a radio!

Thanks, that link was very useful as it shows me what the actual radio chassis looks like.

Thanks, that link was very useful as it shows me what the actual radio chassis looks like.

Great, thanks. I'll send him a message.

I believe my 1939 Dodge D13 has a radio delete blocking plate as seen in the attached photo of my dashboard. Does the second screenshot look like the correct radio for a 1939 Dodge? I do believe in the screenshot the part of the trim at the upper left side is not actually part of the radio. You can see from my dashboard photo there's a full length plate that covers the left and right flanks of the radio. And I also guess that the trim at the very bottom of the screenshot actually goes on the top. Is it possible that in the photo of my dash that the radio delete blocking plate is in fact the front face of a missing radio? I would perhaps just have to find a Philco C-1608 radio body and knock out the two vertical black plates in my dash photo? Please note that the silver tuning knobs are not stock. It's all I had hanging around. Any info or photos of your 1939 Dodge, Plymouth or Chrysler dashboard with a radio would be appreciated! By the way, I've searched the internet using various terms to find 1930's mopar car radios. I did find vintage, antique or collector car radio websites, but stock for pre war cars is pretty bare. Is there anyone out there that you've done business with in the past for old radios?

Wow, thanks for your great response! Perfect, exactly what I needed. Thanks so much...never even thought of mounting it to that center bracket!

1939 Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler etc (cars). Does the long seat track slider return spring connect on the driver's or passengers seat track? Also, does it mount on the front or back of the track which is fixed to the floorboard? And finally, does it mount to the seat frame somewhere, or connect to the top slider of the seat track?

40desoto, which year of 70's Mustang master cylinder did you install? Do you have the make and model of your mc that works with manual (not power) front discs and drum rears? I'm using a 67 Mustang stock master cylinder (designed for power brakes) which works great on the new front discs, but its not enough for the rears.

I did get my original cable working. I gave a detailed how-to earlier in this thread. Long and short of it is that I bought a stiff push-pull throttle inner wire and brazed it to each end as per my earlier how-to. Works good so far. But...if I had a cable like yours that works for a couple days at a time, I'm pretty certain it's still got lots of sludge in the lowest 12 inches of the cable. In my how-to I described a number of methods to clean out the sludge. It would have worked on mine, however, I went a bit overboard by bending the cable while my drill was spinning the inner wire. That snapped my wire which led me to getting a fresh inner wire and brazing it in place. By the way, French Lake did send me a cable, but it was seized even more than mine was. No fault to them...they warned me it was badly seized.

Very cool, folks. Much appreciated. Thanks for helping build a knowledge base on these old beauties.

Ah...that makes sense. Did you come up with that idea of screwing in the grease cap a bit at a time, or was that in a manual somewhere?

Ah...Standard SL2 is a silicon lubricant. I actually have some! Thanks for mentioning it.

A couple things I was most unsure of. I had never seen a felt pad on the points bracket before. Yes, I recall getting a small packet of a jelly to put on the cam for my 60's cars, but was unsure about that felt pad on my 39. I ended up putting 3 in 1 oil on the felt and cam about a week ago as I didn't have any other feedback at thr time. I do like the idea of sewing machine oil on felt pad though, especially if one is diligent to touch it up once or twice a year. I'll check mine out later on in the year to see if it dries out. The second thing is the side port. Mine also had a bearing grease inside, but quite frankly, I can't see how it does any good as the small hole inside the port was just gummed up with old grease. Also, based on my distributor cap orientation, my side port is at 8 o'clock (if one were to think of noon being straight up). I would think the side port should be at least from 9 o'clock thru noon and into 3 o'clock for grease to melt in under high heat. And I assume you would only get a high enough heat when there's too much friction. Therefore one would need to know at what temperature your lubricant becomes viscous enough to dribble thru the small internal port, and at what temperature the friction gets high enough to warrant some liquid grease. Unless someone out there has a high level of knowledge about this, I'm going to say that its going to be pretty much impossible to get the side port lubrication right. Thanks for your responses so far!