dpollo

It is indeed the knob for resetting the trip odometer as Dodge b4ya says.

anything I have ordered from Rhode Island has been colour coded the same as the original and of excellent quality.

Looks like 10, 12, 14 and 16. and what you have there is in relatively good shape so rather than rewire, tidy up the frayed spots with a bit of shrink tubing.

That is not necessary. Just install the correct bolts with the threaded end closest to the engine. If the bolts are already in the crankshaft then install the flywheel that way. As long as they are shouldered and fit the holes , and the nuts have a suitable lock washer, there is no problem in practical terms. I cannot think of any reason to put a spacer between the flywheel and the crankshaft unless there is a mismatch of parts and clearance or starter pinion engagement is an issue. These are all easily checked with the engine on the "bench".

Sorry to rain on your parade, but the 228 is 3 3/8 by 4 1/4 and is a block with a 25 inch head. This is the engine which powered the 37 Desoto and was later used in the larger Dodge in Canada and was last found under the hood of the Canadian 55 Plymouth The 230 had many applications but had a 3 1/4 bore and the cylinder head measured 23 inches. Bellhousings will interchange but be careful with ring gear and starter as mentioned in earlier posts.

Don is correct. Only the pilot bushing is oilite . The crankshaft bolts have a special head which is shaped to fit through the flywheel and not turn. The nuts usually go between the crankshaft flange and the engine however they can be on the flywheel side. In order to have the nuts on the flywheel side, studs must be inserted through the crankshaft which means they must be installed before the rear main bearing and pan are put in place.

Some starters were moved around the ring gear ( to gain clearance for steering and gearshift) but held the same relative position to the gear itself. 57 and up used a smaller starter pinion and more ring gear teeth so were closer to the crankshaft center line. 56 therefore is the only 12 volt starter which is fully compatible with earlier engines. 6 volt starters run on 12 volts rarely cause any problems. I am surprised to learn your Desoto has a 23 inch engine. However, the bell housing should fit.

If your car has broken an axle, it is most likely the left rear. As Niel says, check the axle keys.

The engine does not care what the voltage is. It should fit your bell housing perfectly. The flywheel likely has 4 bolts in your Desoto but it will fit on the 8 hole crankshaft. An eight hole flywheel would be better but there is a difference in the ring gear tooth count in 1957 and later. One item to check is the distance the ring gear is from the starter's mounting flange. In your case this should be OK but it can be a problem with the 3 1/4 bore 218 and other engine sizes including the 230. Incidentally, you cannot use a 57 or later flywheel in an earlier bell housing.

Make sure the wire to the solenoid is at least #10. The engagement current is significantly higher than the holding current. Also, if possible draw the power for the overdrive from the starter solenoid terminal rather than through the ignition switch. Some overdrive relays are set up to do this. However, the overdrive circuit does not draw power below "cut in" speed, so it can be wired this way successfully. Rail lock out switches were not considered necessary when 12 volt systems came to be because of lower amperages.

interesting. The LHD model 52 mounts on the bell housing. The reservoir is up on the firewall with a little tee handle which is pumped every so often to keep the master cylinder full. mine has a slip joint on the pushrod so that the piston is not pulled back too quickly as this would allow air to be drawn in. Apparently this was a real problem in 1925 when the Lockheed system was introduced,

I wonder if adding something political to the post would then result in its deletion? Just kidding . I suppose the posts slowly settle down into the archives which must in time have become massive.

an expansion plug such as the one used on the lower shift rail will fit this hole. The hole is slightly tapered so the countershaft will seat tightly with no leaks. It MUST be removed through the back otherwise the reassembled unit will usually leak at this point.

The seal is doing its job but oil is moving along the splines. It does happen but not all that often .Some sort of sealant applied to the splines or the back of the washer may be the solution.

That high an idle speed is at the root of your problem. RPMs must drop off 30 % and do it quickly or the internals of the overdrive will not allow it to engage. The generator need not be charging at idle.

I did one this way thirty years ago and it is still running so as haywire as it sounds, it worked :, I left the stuck valve where it was with its spring back in place. I then substituted the oil pump cover which has a relief valve built in. This was used on 53 and 54 cars with Hydrive or the torque converter filled by engine oil. Oil pressure is then regulated at the pump. The drawback is that a bypass filter will not work as intended.

If the engine rpms do not fall off fast enough then the overdrive will not engage. or if the idle speed is too fast. The balk or blocker ring in the od unit prevents engagement. This is an intermittent situation depending on several factors so this may explain the sometimes or sometimes not behaviour.

This seal is not much more than a washer which keeps dirt out of the box. It does not have to keep oil in. Seems to me there is a coil spring and a metal cap which slide over the shaft and fit inside the jacket which is dimpled to load up the spring. I think a washer cut from leather would do the job.

The windshield knob pulls off like a radio knob then the decorative collar unthreads from the part that sticks up through the dash. The problem is how to get a grip on it without scratching something up. The headlight switch either has a slot in the bottom of the knob which allows a slim tool to be inserted which releases the knob's grip on the shaft or there is a button on the switch body which when depressed allows the shaft and knob to slide free. The decorative collar then unscrews. ( some replacement switches have thread on knobs look for a set screw) The instrument panel, if it is similar to the 48, is held in place by the High Beam indicator fitting and the choke and throttle cable nuts.

I guess we are off topic enough now but I will in due course send you a PM about John P OGrady.

Very nice, Andy. I am Canadian so I had to learn all the differences in production. Applies to GM and Ford too.Canada had a very distinct Pontiac built for the most part on Chevrolet bodies. Best wishes. btw my favourite Australian novels are those by Nino Culotta which will give you a clue as to where I am intellectually. They're a Weird Mob being the first and favourite. The episode with the taxi driver is a classic.

Something else Andy. The foot actuated starter would be really inconvenient if it had to be used on a RHD car. "Pilot to Copilot......engage starter...." of course your car has a button and a solenoid operated starter.

D 8 is the engineering code for one of the series of cars made by Dodge in 1938, as was D10. Plymouth in 1938 used P5 and P 6 .

Right hand drive cars had the lock on the left hand (passenger) side. Can you imagine having to slide across the seat of a modern car? I had to do this on a ferry with our Dodge Journey and it was not a pretty sight. Probably will appear on "Funniest Home Videos" with the language blocked out.

Congratulations. The bumpers from a Plymouth both Canada and USA will fit if you have the irons . There are some differences as noted in a later post.