dpollo

Shades of Tulsa's Miss Belvedere , the buried Plymouth !

You gave yourself the best advice in your original post. Beating on things may well cause more problems. Prying on the ring gear can be effective but it is possible to bend a connecting rod if the angles are just right (or wrong). Filling the block with hot water really hot water may gain you some ground too. Your machine shop maybe would hot tank the entire assembly to free things up. Disassembling the engine yourself will not save much especially if there is the risk of bending something or even cracking a cylinder wall. You will want to remove the bell housing and fluid drive unit before the trip to the machine shop. Since the engine cannot be turned, you will have to partially drive out the dowel pins at the back of the block so the bell housing can be removed giving you access to the bolts on the fluid drive unit. If this cannot be done then the crankshaft and fluid drive can be lifted from the block after all the bearing caps have been removed. Mark #2 and#3 main caps as they are easily mixed up.

Given your proximity to Vancouver BC, you might try Shadbolt Cams . They have the necessary profiles and have been around a long time. www.shadboltcams.com

That engine will work in your 41. You will have to change the front pulley and probably the bell housing. Manifolds should be OK. Looking at the block, it is pre war judging by the oil pressure relief valve. The starter is 1946 or newer The distributor is from a car or light truck. The oil filler cap is the "heavy duty" option.

This problem usually is a result of the pinion not being fully engaged when the switch energizes the starter. I have encountered it only on cars with 12 volt conversions so I suspect that a more sluggish 6 volt system allows the teeth to mesh before the pinion really starts to turn. A solution is to slightly chamfer each ring gear tooth. This can be done by removing the clutch cover. Given the number of teeth, it is not a job I would want to volunteer to do. Perhaps an adjustment of the starter switch may help.

It is a 52. The hood ornamentation gives it away as well as the lack of a bracket for the front license plate. The two tone is black over Glacier Gray. If you are in the Shuswap area there is a world class motorcycle museum near Sorrento. It is worth a significant trip to see.

Could be. In over 50 years I have had very little crankshaft trouble . Those that I did have were well advanced before I came into the picture, usually dirty oil or extreme abuse. Recently though, I have had trouble with the 230 in my 50 Plymouth. It has a spray welded crankshaft and the oil passages on some throws are restricted by material left from the welding process. Fortunately no damage to the journal surface has occurred I will have to have a machine shop ream the passages and chamfer the openings. I have prepared another engine with a NEW crankshaft and even had it balanced.

Back in the day (early 50s) when you would see ads for Mc Cullough superchargers and the like, they were not offered for Chrysler's sixes because as one article clearly implied the crankshaft would not be up to the extra stress. Only one way to find out for sure.

The thickness might make a very slight difference. I do not think I would use a gasket as thick as a pan plug washer. As I recall it is just a composite paper gasket. A brass ring would be fine.

The serial #, 12290010 is in the sequence for the 1949 P18 Special Deluxe 12120001 to 12384178 built in Detroit This does not match your description of the car as a P19 ( which is a short wheelbase 1950 model) The body number bears no relationship to the serial number that I am aware of It was assigned by Briggs Body works and was not used for registration The engine number can be found on the frame above the left rear axle. as well as on the original engine above the generator.

No S U -4s. But you will be amused to learn that I have bought some of my stuff back at swap meets. The people who got the stuff from me are OFF the Christmas list.

I feel so much better now ! We could start a Christmas exchange. Your Junque for mine and so on. Get the Beach Boy's "Little St Nick" to deliver and we could spend the rest of the year blissfully sorting stuff out.

I have one for the 25 inch engine but that is no use to you. Is your manifold cracked ? Perhaps it can be repaired.

HyDrive was not offered in 55. The 55 engine might accept a HyDrive. A standard bellhousing will fit any HyDrive block so long as the oil gallery has a plug put in it. One of the HyDrives I had , the one which I took apart , had the usual 8 hole crankshaft. The crankshaft does the same job no matter what is coupled to it so there is no reason why HyDrive would need a special bolt pattern but I have heard that some used only six holes. The parts manual shows no different crankshaft for HyDrive but does indicate " Note 24 ", something that I searched for in vain. As for the question immediately above, a Hydrive torque converter just as a Fluid Drive Unit takes the place of the conventional flywheel. HyDrive engines use an oil pump which has the pressure relief valve in the cover. The conventional pressure relief valve on the left side of the block remains in place.

Hy Drive does not fit just any block 23 or 25 inch. The block must have the machined surfaces to mate up with the adapter plate to provide oil to the torque converter and return it to the pan. Blocks cast in 53 and 4 and possibly some later ones have this feature but on later blocks the return hole was not drilled. The supply was from the back of the oil gallery and would have a threaded plug if there was no Hydrive. Same for the semi-autos with engine-fed torque converters.

If I can help, try me. I have a cousin in Bothell which is not so far from you and we travel the I -5 to Portland at least twice a year. Sometimes I use 405. I am on Vancouver Island just north of Victoria. If you would like my email address just send me a PM.

I bought the entire running gear and wheels from a 31 Desoto which was to be hot rodded. I used the axles brakes and wheels (19 inch) under a 26 Dodge (which in 26 was not yet a Chrysler product.) The swap, including the later front springs and steering box was relatively easy with no cutting of components. Moreover, it looked right and it gave me 4 wheel hydraulic brakes. Good ones too. The giveaway to a keen observer is the larger diameter hub caps. The original Dodge 4 was replaced with a 36 Dodge engine and trans. I traded it away but have no regrets as its new owner is a member of this forum and he is attending to all the finishing details. It is very nice to drive.

Sorry mate but my Oirish heritage makes it mandatory. Somewhere in Oz there is a roadster without a top and a distributor drive. I only wish my car was a "62"

My 28 is a model 52 4 cylinder. A little slow for modern traffic. It had been cut into a farmer's truck and would have been impossible to restore if I had not had an uncle who was a master woodworker . He respoked the wheels and did all the wood for the body and top. Parts came from as far away as Australia. The 29 model 65 is a very drivable car. It is a true Chrysler while my "52" is a Maxwell derivative. No less lovable though. Took 30 years to get it all together. I had to prove that I could do it.

I have been working on Chrysler's products for over 50 years and I have never seen a flywheel ljke the one pictured. Pilot bushings are almost always in the crankshaft. It also looks like the holes have been elongated which would be bad news in this location. The noise of a loose flywheel is something you will hear over and over in your worst dreams. I will give you the correct flywheel for your engine if you want to come and get it. Shipping is prohibitive

There is no problem using a canister filter on a 201. Just make sure the pressure line goes into the side or the top and the return goes into the vertical hole above the pressure relief valve.

I have passenger car wheels from a 50s Plymouth on my 1/2 ton Fargo . These are 15 inch by 4 1/2 inch wide and accept a 205 R 15 tire. They also have the clips to use the original hub cap. Any set of wheels from almost any Chrysler product of this era will work but as you realize, some have different offsets and the rim widths vary. All will work but they are best if matched as to rim width and offset. Your truck originally used a 16 x 4.5 wheel.

On the Plymouths of that era, the dash slights were dimmed by a little unmarked three position toggle switch under the dash. It is easy to overlook. Also, it is possible someone has substituted twelve volt bulbs in the instrument panel. Grounding is through the instrument panel case and should not be an issue given that the speedometer cable and the temperature gauge tube would provide grounding if somehow the instrument case was isolated from the dashboard.

It looks like one from the 30s or 39 to 47 truck.

First I will have to find the pan. It is from a 58 Plymouth 251. it may not be the same as a 55 . Freight will be prohibitive, I am certain of that. I went to send one special bolt from a differential housing to PA. $9.00. Manitoba (55 Spitfire above ) is a lot closer. and he does know his engines. Sounds like you are doing well after 4 years of collecting. I have been at it for 50 years. An oil pan has lots of places to hide.