dpollo

when deceleration is happening, and especially when the brakes are applied, the snout of the differential is forced downward enough to require the driveshaft to extend itself via the slip yoke or, in the case of ball and trunnion (sealed) joints , the trunnion balls are pulled toward the dust boot end. even If the joints are still good, it is possible that dried or hardened grease is interfering with smooth action. It can make a dreadful noise.

The gauge end of the fitting is not your regular inverted flare, in fact it is kind of ball shaped and when they were still available I bought several. They were meant to be used only once. However, I have had no trouble reusing them. I hope you kept the steel line that ran from your gauge to the engine side of the firewall. On Chryslers, a flexible hose ran to the gauge which allowed the instrument cluster to be pulled out for bulb replacement. It is possible to use a coupling with double flares to make a serviceable connection. The all important item to have is the original connection for the gauge end. I had a hydraulic shop make flex hoses for me at $ 20 each so Bernbaum's $15 item seems to be a bargain.

just some observations . I notice that the engine is the 25 inch (measured along the head ) and is newer than '49. ( there is a bolt hole on the pan rail both sides which is used for a brace for the Powerflite which did not appear until 54.) Your engine has a rebuilder's tag near the fuel pump. The pump is like the one used on trucks of that era. It must be awfully tight at the rear with the exhaust , pedals throttle and steering all so close together ! I worked on a Kiwi '38 and as I recall the exhaust was a little further forward. If you order gaskets and seals for the 251 engine, you will avoid any confusion with the USA 217 ...... 251s use the same gaskets and front seal as the 3 3/8 bore engine originally found in your car. The rear seal may be different. As for the clutch, it looks like the larger of the two offered and does not appear to be badly worn.

This topic was covered very thoroughly on this forum some digging will turn it up. Dodgeb4ya has the best info. Myself, I would leave the Fluid Drive unit alone and use Atf in the .transmission

absolutely gorgeous . Congratulations on a job well done.

All of the cylinder studs except three go into the water jacket . all of the manifold studs go into the water jacket same with the water pump

My grandad bought a new 48 Deluxe Coach (2 dr sedan) The dealer dressed it up a bit to clinch the sale. Included were the white trim rings, fog lights and back up light a cigarette lighter and an odd plastic wind deflector on the door window but behind the driver. Perhaps it was to protect the rear seat passengers from drafts.

Mike is quite correct but I think it is a good chance that yours is an R10 which was used from 52 to 56 . The overdrive part shares service parts with Studebaker, Ford, Kaiser Frazer and even Chevrolet. The gearbox ahead of it uses the same internals from 41 to 56. (40 had a different second gear ratio). I do not think it would be difficult to come up with a standard three speed for parts. I have lots of them but shipping into the USA is likely to be prohibitive. The front case is slightly different with the overdrive but the bearings are all standard issue, the numbers are engraved on the outer race. I got my first OD in 1966. Still have it. Treated right, they are very reliable and a real benefit in a car operating at highway speeds.

Mike is correct. What you can do is take a piece of 5/16 ready made tubing. One of the flare nuts will be longer than the other. If needs be, lathe off some of the leading threads. Then make a "bubble" flare by using a double flaring tool but performing only half the procedure. You can then connect this to your original gas line.

The circuit breaker is on the headlight switch and protects the headlight circuit. The stop lights and the dome light are on the protected side. The ignition has no protection and accessories like the radio have in-line fuses. On later models the circuit breaker was fastened near to the ammeter. The breaker is of the self closing type and will open and close until the heavier than 30 amp load is removed or the battery goes dead. You will find the same type of breaker on power window circuits in later cars.

my P10 has a solid door hinged at the bottom with a latch behind the passenger seat. It is not very convenient to use. It has a canvas cover over the spare tire which is behind the driver's seat

I think PA nailed it.

I recently acquired two of these. good shape and definitely fit the Plymouth wheel there must be two more out there somewhere.

no secret, but you will probably need to fabricate a puller which will come up under the wheel hub without causing damage . Hooks on a typical gear puller will damage the hub.

The solenoid for kick down is amidships. I recently gave a 39 unit to a friend in Oregon who will be making good use of it. I wish I had studied it to see how the solenoid actually kicked it down. I suspect it somehow defeated the centrifugal motion by pushing against the rotating part. I may get another look at it in January but I do have pages copied from a Motors manual which shows the unit and its internals. Send me a PM with your full name and mailing address and I will mail you a copy...... right up the street and across the strait. Once, while traveling north, I saw the snow line as it went right across Peace Arch Park. Snow on the North side, of course.

your overdrive does not have a kick down, that was introduced in '39. You have to slow down to disengage the overdrive since the control is entirely centrifugal I believe yours is designated R6. Later overdrive, R10 as used in many cars of the 50s has electrical controls and is quite different. These can be locked out while in motion PROVIDED the car is not actually in overdrive. Kick down to direct drive and pull the handle. It should be possible to lock yours out while the car is in motion provided that you are accelerating but not actually in overdrive ( below normal overdrive engagement speeds)

Short answer is No, The bodies share no stampings at all. 49 to 52 however, while not identical share many of the stampings including the transmission tunnel.

If you want to use a bell housing from a 35....( up to39) you will need to use the transmission as well. The bell housing is made so the shifting forks can extend out the front of the trans. Whatever you choose to do, before you make any major tear-ups, check for compatibility of the starter and the offset of the ring gear. A 230 has an 8 bolt flywheel. The 217 has a 4 bolt . The offsets for the ring gear are different . Measure how far the starter pinion must move to make full contact with the ring gear. It can all be done but be careful. The front mount is easy to deal with but when a 35 bell housing is used, a new rear crossmember will need to be fabricated unless you can get the crossmember from the car that gave up its bell housing. 35 6 and 7 use 2 saddle type mounts at the rear. Sometime during 38 the donut type made its debut and with a few minor changes was used up to 56. Other people on this forum have done the very same swap and I am sure they will be willing to help out with advice.

Looks like we ( I ) have started something here however, in my defense, I have been familiar with these engines for over 50 years . All the bypass filters I have seen have had the return line at the bottom with the inlet at the top or near the top on the side. Except for the one I removed from a 59 Dodge with the filter hooked up so the oil was delivered to the bottom and the return from the side. This engine had failed at just under 3000 miles , Material from the filter was in the pan and some of it had worked its way back into the oiling system. It had the consistency of wet toilet paper. The cartridge looked typical with a perforated metal frame sealed around the center tubular post .

Nash used a baldy cap that fit the Plymouth wheels but they were hard to get back in the 50s let alone now.

Good point, Merle but if I were CB, I would check it out since he said he is in there anyways. Nobody needs the expense of changing a crankshaft for such an obvious mistake.

Cold Blue's connections are backwards. I have seen the stuffing of the element work its way back to the pan when a filter is hooked up this way. This material is then picked up and circulated to the bearings where it will block the annulus on the end mains , resulting in bearing failure. Conn47, your original diagram is correct. Also, the filter is the by pass type where it filters about 15 to 20% of the oil at speeds above 30 mph when the oil bypass is open. Not as good as found on Chrysler sixes and all modern engines but better than nothing.

It is hard to tell if it is a Canadian model but if it is, you will soon find that the engine specs are different, I am the tech advisor for '50 in the Plymouth Owner's Club and am just across the strait on Vancouver Island. I have not been without a 50 Plymouth since 1965. They are truly very nice cars. send me a PM if you have any specific questions. dp

In 1952, the starter drive was changed to minimize this problem, and it worked. If you can get a starter from 52 to 55, change the whole unit.

above advice is good. I may have a cable. PM if interested. I believe you will be happier with the floor shift. there is no special need for lubrication on the "ball" but a dust boot must be installed on the top side.