acasey64
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Thanks guys!
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I have a pair of Delco Lovejoy shocks serial numbers R-23 1060635. I am thinking it came off an early 1930s Mopar vehicle. Can anyone tell me for sure?
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Thank you!
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I need to install these springs on the hinges of my hood (1949 Chrysler Windsor). Could someone show me a picture of what it looks like once installed? I also welcome any advice on how to install the spring. I believe I know where the spring goes and I indicate it on the picture.
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I know this is an eight-year-old string, but it was helpful to me. The biggest thing I learned from these posts was that I had to be patient, and I took it to heart. Here is my journey. January 2018 I started working on a 1949 Chrysler Windsor Highlander that had been setting for 12 years. After doing the brakes, I turned to the engine. It was toward the end of February. I only had compression in the #2 cylinder. I poured Marvel Mystery Oil down the spark plug holes. After a couple of weeks, I got compression in #5. I continued with Marvel for a couple more weeks, but no luck. March 31 I pulled the head. Intake valves on #1 and #4 were open. Exhaust valves on #3 and #6 were open. I started alternating between three kinds of lubricant on the valves: Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF/Acetone mixture, and WD-40. I took a rubber mallet and tried to bang the open valves down. I always made sure the opposite valve was up. For example, I turned the engine over by hand until the intake on #3 was open, then I took the rubber mallet and banged on the #3 exhaust. Eventually, I was able to get the exhaust on #3 and the intake on #4 to go down. #4 started to work after two or three times of banging the intake down, turning the engine over, and repeating. The #3 exhaust took a couple of days of lubricating and banging. The intake on #1 and the exhaust on #6 proved to be more of a challenge. The rubber mallet didn't move them at all. I eventually turned to a 16oz ball peen hammer. My greatest fear was bending the valves. I used the ball end of the hammer and was extremely careful to hit the center of the valve. I lubricated and tapped them down more times than I can count. Once the spring started to "suck" the valve down, I switched back to the rubber mallet. The #6 exhaust valve was so hard to tap down, I thought the valve would NEVER loosen up. However, a day came when it gave the slightest hint that the spring was starting to "suck" it down. On April 14 the #1 intake started opening and closing on its own. On April 29, the #6 exhaust valve started opening and closing on its own. I put the head back on and started it up May 1, 2018. Again, thanks for all the prior posts! Valves.mov
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Again guys, Thanks. It smokes less and less each time I drive it.
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Thanks everybody!
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1949 Chrysler Windsor (C45) with flathead 6. The car sat for 12 years. Five valves were stuck open. After a few weeks of patiently working with them, I finally got them all free. Because I put so much lightweight oil (Marvel Mystery, ATF/acetone, WD-40) on the valves, I changed the oil before I tried to start it. The car is now running. Of course, it smoked to high heaven when I first started it. Now that I am past that there is a definite pattern and it is as follows: When the car is first started, the exhaust runs clean for about 7-8 minutes. Then it starts to smoke. The carb has been rebuilt. The plugs do have black soot on them, so some adjustments need to be made. I am concerned about compression. Compression is as follows: four cylinders at 80, one at 75, and one at 85. That is better than when I tested them before it was running; however, The car has had a total running time of 80-90 minutes now. If I read the manual correctly, it should be 120-150. Thoughts? Also, while working with the valves, I pulled the head. I put on a new gasket and tightened according to proper order and torque. I have attached a picture of a leak. It is the bolt the throttle linkage sets upon. I assume I need to take it out, put joint compound on it and tighten it back down. Or, is this more serious than I think? I checked my oil, it looks great! No antifreeze in oil.
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I will be putting the head back on my 1949 Chrysler Windsor 6 Cylinder. I bought new head bolts and gasket. I read I should use sealant on the head bolts. Pipe joint compound was recommended. Is Loctite ok for this job? Thanks for any response.
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I just read your June 12, 2016 post about the “Fluid Drive Coupling” on the prestomic transmission which is in my 1949 Chrysler Windsor. I have an issue and I think you might be able to help me. I drained the fluid drive transmission on my 1949 Chrysler Windsor and refilled. Right after, I realized I put in three quarts of 10W but was supposed to put in three pints. When I went to drain off the additional three pints, nothing came out the drain plug. After reading your post, I realize that I put the fluid in the fluid drive coupling unit. Can you give direction as to what I need to do to correct this. I feel like a fool! Any help would be appreciated.
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After more reading, this is what I understand. It was the transmission that I drained, and the transmission fill and drain is different than the fluid drive coupling fill. Now I see where I need to fill the transmission. Going back to my original issue, I poured 10 weight oil into the bell housing thinking I was putting it into the transmission. I never removed the nut that would allow me to see the fluid level in the fluid drive coupling. Here is my question, where did the oil go that I poured into the bell housing? Nothing came out onto the ground.
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The fluid should have drained right out of the bell housing for sure!
It's just an open cavity enclosing the fluid drive coupling and at the bottom of it there is a 4" square screen and or a 1/4" hole at the bottom of the bell housing. The above drawing shows that lower screen that oil would pour out of. It is not sealed in any way. The oil you poured into the bell housing had to come out. I just don't see haow the 3 quarts of oil would not run out of the housing.
I've had so many of those housings apart over the years.
Did you have your drain pan under it? Was the car parked over dirt or concrete when you did this work?
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Ya, know. I had a square basin of gas underneath the car during that time. Off and on for a week, I used it to loosen up the old grease and grime that had built up around the grease fittings and under the car. It must have gone into the basin. That is the only thing I can think. The car is on concrete. If it had gone anywhere else, I would have seen it. Also, I simply put the three quarts in and went on to something else in the shop. I didn’ work under the car again until the next day. Thanks so much for your help. I appreciate you taking time out to answer me!!!
