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windsor48

Members
  • Content Count

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About windsor48

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/11/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver, WA
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Chrysler Windsor

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Father and a lucky Husband
  • Occupation
    Sales

Converted

  • Location
    Vancouver, WA
  • Interests
    Upholstery, Sports, Family

Recent Profile Visitors

371 profile views
  1. I agree it doesn't seem to. Interesting that some eras it's a HUGE DEAL but in this case it's not. It's still nice to have though...
  2. How far do people go with numbers matching? So far today I've matched engine, carburetor, generator, and starter to period specific. I'm pretty confident they are original to the car. I'm was mostly doing this out of curiosity to see how much Frankenstein I have but it doesn't appear to bad...
  3. Sorry if this has been addressed. I've searched through the forums but couldn't find the simple answer... It's my understanding that VIN numbers and Engine Casting Numbers where only matched at the factory starting in the 60s. I've been asked several times if my 48' is numbers matching, but honestly never took the time to find out until about a week ago. From what I've read; you can match the engine casting number to a general timeline that can be matched to vehicle production but really there isn't a way to say that specific motor came from that car (in the case of 40
  4. Good clarification. I meant I didn't see that they sold any mats even if application was correct. In my case, was hoping for a molded trunk mat... which nobody makes.
  5. I agree... it had to have bottomed out and tore back that section cause all the metal is there just curled up.
  6. They don't do mats though that I could find... which is a bummer cause I need a trunk mat.
  7. I got my kit from Auto Custom Carpets (ACC). It was molded to fit and was SUPER EASY to install. Fit like a glove!
  8. I can't find any other damage. Nothing is inside the curdled piece, the pulled back part rolled over itself twice.
  9. So... wasn't caused by rust. Literally beat on every part of the rail with a hammer to check. Not sure how I haven't seen this before. Looks like a puncture and peeled back. I've been spending to much of my time under the hood and fixing the interior I guess. Is this a significant structural thing? I know if rust was involved the integrity of the entire rail would be in question but has anyone had exerience with non-rust caused holes??
  10. Although mine isn't nice (yet)... being four doors helped sell the wife on the hobby. "It's perfect for the kids and us on a Sunday drive; we all fit." Nevermind the lack of safety features (although I did install seat belts). Cheers!
  11. This wiring configuration appears to have corrected the issues. No problem getting to freeway speeds and no lunging a stops. Makes sense that the previous owner wired the coil wrong, then to "correct" the acceleration just disconnected the relay. Crazy a simple thing caused such a headache this weekend. Thanks to all who helped and advised. I really appreciate it! All this gave a good portion of my car a look though which isn't a bad deal either. BIG THANKS!!!!!
  12. So two wires to the positive on the right side of the coil and one wire connected to the negative. As shown in photo. Time for a quick test drive!!! Glad the rain hasn't come in yet!!!
  13. So... back to basics but confirmation is important. Can you help me with which wire goes into the the positive of the ignition coil? Right now the wire running from the Coil to the distributor is ran thru the negative of the ignition coil... is that correct?
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