Dartgame
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Everything posted by Dartgame
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I've not noticed much difference in adjustable proportioning valves. If it make you feel more secure use a name brand, wilwood etc. Plumb it into the rear brake line after the master cylinder.
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Just a thought - assuming the engine is warmed up fully will it idle ? Maybe the hot idle speed RPM is set too slow, which would cause it to die.
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If you have not done so be sure to prime the pump. To do so remove from the engine and submerge in oil and rotate the pump shaft so all air is expelled and install in the block.
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I used a stat from a 60's 70's mopar v8. Worked fine in my car. Do check the opening temp. by heating in water on the stove and monitoring temp using a themometer - stir the pot constantly while doing this. Stats are notorious for not opening at the correct temp.
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My machinist likes to use jb weld to seal the disc types - which is what I use for that type. For cup type plugs I use permatex #2. I like the cup type where possible to use, they have more contact area for the sealant to do its job.
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Wow was the tube trashed. Good thing you got it out. I guess I got lucky with mine - after 68 years it was perfect and came out in one piece quite easily, and yes it was steel.
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I have a suggestion. Pull the thermostat out. Put it on the stove in a pot of water and slowly heat it up. Keep checking the water temp while observing when the tstat opens. Be sure to stir the water while doing this. My bet is yours is like most replacement stats, and it opens too hot. I've had many common replacement 180 tstats, that are new, open at close to 200F. My recommendation is to buy a robertshaw style tstat from a v8 muscle era mopar application. I have had no issues with robertshaw stats opening at the correct temp. After learning this many years ago, I check all new stats this way before installing. Hope this helps.
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Those spring loaded clamps are available new as they were used on muscle era mopars and probably long after that too.
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Body filler can be subject to moisture pickup, JB weld is not. But maybe being painted the filler could work?
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I was fortunate in that my pieces were very good, most if not all had none or very little pitting. It still cost an arm and leg to rechrome them. It depends on what you are willing to accept and pay for.
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I checked my interchange info and the 277-301-318 (1956 and up) series does use the same bell pattern. No info on the flywheel. My thought was to use a gyromatic bell housing & flywheel from that v8 series if such an animal exists and mate it together...not sure if this kind of thing exists. I dont know much about the gyromatic trans. The bell housing pattern on the early series hemi's are supposed to be the same as the LA motors.
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The early dodge plymouth small V8's (1950's ) are supposed to share the same bell housing bolt pattern as the LA v8 (273-360 series). If I remember correctly the difference is with the flywheel spacing, the two series dont interchange. I'll check my info and let you know what chrysler says about that.
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exhaust shop should be able to fab a down pipe for a few $ once the car is back together...looks good. Can't comment on the linkage though. Do you have a service manual to compare ?
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If you were going to keep the original tranny - another way to go would have been to rewind the 6 volt solenoids to 12 volt.
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I'd fix the heat riser or remove it altogether, your choice, and retry. Your comment about the carb being hot makes sense logically.
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I'd suggest running the fronts and rears separate from each other, and use a proportioning valve in the rear brake line. Front brakes do the most work and rears are kind of along for the ride until you stomp on the brakes (panic stop). If the rears lock up before the front you can spin.
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Have to sell Cambridge, but how much should I ask?
Dartgame replied to Jason @ Crazy 8's topic in P15-D24 Forum
4 K seems about right to me. Assuming the car is solid and not rotted. Maybe try running an ad in some other publications like Hemmings or you could try moparts.com for free... -
Thanks - I looked at the Plymouth doctors website sheet metal floor pieces. The rear part seems similar for a portion of it, but there are kick ups (for lack of a better term) I assume for the frame rails in the bus coupe, not present in the 2 door club coupes which are flat. But these kickups are behind the trunk divider. I am thinking the 2 door club coupe carpet should work when cut off...anyone else ?
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I reached out to some of the auto carpet outfits and found that one is making carpet sets for 1952 Ply. 2 door club coupes, but not business coupes. My question is about the differences in the floors of club and business coupes. Obviously the bus coupe has a shorter floor section to be carpeted, but is the floor sheet metal the same as a club coupe ? Assuming it is then I should be able to buy a set for a club coupe and shorten it ?
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soak them in solvent to soften the glass channel tape. After it softens they will slide out with some coaxing. You can take the glass pieces to a local glass shop and have them cut duplicate new ones and install them as well...some food for thought.
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Interesting, the automakers would never do that now, too much capital tied up in iron sitting around....
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If you folks like to see old cars check out so called Film Noir on Turner classic Saturday evenings...Lots of black and white films dealing with murder mysteries etc from the late 40- into the 50's...
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Often when these are split the front cylinders are blocked off from the rear - with a welded in plate at the heat riser. I'd check and make sure...Or do as suggested and keep it dual.
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Look for a bearing that uses a design called angular contact. As to which manufacturer, try talking with the companies making clutches. I believe the TO bearings used in the old cars like ours are similar to the muscle car era mopars...
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Hi Ed - The rears are the same as long as its a 2 to 4 door. I imagine the fronts are the same, but dont know that for certain.
