Dartgame

I'll Give the plunger another try some day. Too darn cold here to fool with it. Block is sitting in the unheated part of the garage...

I bought a stripped down standard bore 218 block that had been hot tanked and then shelved. Unfortunately the pressure relief valve was not removed and rusted into the block. I tried like He** to get that thing out and gave up. It now sits in the garage.

There are at least three outfits making disc brake conversions. AAJ, scare bird, and one other I don't recall at the moment. I used AAJ, he has brackets for front and rear discs and also to adapt to a tandem master cylinder. For the rear axle - consider an 8.8 axle from an older ford explorer w disc brakes (lots of ratios available), or an older jeep cherokee (not the grand model) with an 8 1/4 mopar axle - most are 3.55:1. Advantage to using the ford or mopar axle is you retain the 4.5" on 5 wheel lug pattern. For a front sway bar look at jeep cherokees (smaller one) search this site for info on that retrofit. Consider making a bracket to use either a 70's into 90's mopar or GM 12 volt alternator. Later GM's are nice because they have internal regulators which simplify wiring. If your wire harness is good you can use as is. Otherwise look at a wiring kit with a modern style fuse panel. You don't have to retrofit the starter, it will turnover the correct direction with negative ground, and as long as you dont crank for extended periods of time will live using 12 volts. The ammeter will need to be reverse wired, (easy), use a runtz resistor for the fuel gauge, if you have a heater you will need to drop the voltage to it or use a 12 volt blower motor.

I'm with Plymouthy. The stock cast iron intake is an excellent piece for the street hard to improve upon. As for TQ's they are my favorite carb. Excellent mileage and tons of airflow if needed.

I dont much about the 25 inch motors. For the 218/230 23 inch motors they use the same piston. Items that change are the crank and rods between the two. So to make a 218 into a 230 you only need change the crank and rods since the bore is the same on both.

Well, no our's had a black shifter knob. I believe it was a hurst shifter although it did not say it on the shift arm going through the floor. I recall adjusting the shifter linkage and it seemed to me it appeared to be a competition plus.

1970 hemi 4spd cuda, red with black vinyl top and interior. 1968 chrysler 300 two door buckets and floor shift. 1964 ferrari GTO Mid sixties Jaguar XKE coupe Jersey Harold - you posted about wanting a 4 spd Aspen wagon. My dad bought one, (special ordered it), 77 aspen 318/4spd overdrive. had a light blue interior with black carpet. Nice car until rust started 2 years after new....

If I understand your set of parts correctly, as long as you match 218 parts together it should work. The difference between 218 and 230's as I understand it is that the crank flange for the flywheel is offset differently for the two engines. Why I do not know. So if you intend to drop the 218 in place of the 230 and keep the 3spd manual trans you will need a 218 car flywheel or a flywheel of the same diameter and tooth count (218 flywheel truck or car) as the 230 you are replacing. Use the 230 bell housing from the dodge (no change) and bolt the three speed to it. If this involves a trans change to a fluid drive vs manual I cant help you decide what to do.

I bought mine on ebay for the opening bid + shipping. I don't think the seller was too happy. He used a women's hygiene product box to pack the heater (a subtle message i believe), which ended up in pretty bad shape by the time it got to me, but the heater itself was fine...

If you live in a highly populated area look up a semi truck transmission and clutch rebuilder and take your pressure plate disc and flywheel to them and tell them to do it to it. Living near Chicago there are companies that do this, which is exactly what I did. Perfect result. Turnaround in an afternoon.

The cable is secured to the side cover of the transmission using roughly a Y shaped piece of steel about 1/8 to 3/18 thick. A pinch bolt is used to clamp it in place. You would be best off getting a service manual and examine the drawings inside, which are above as well from KeithB7. All of the stuff related to the parking brake is external you do not need to drain the transmission. It sounds like you are mainly missing the adjuster bolt which as you can see is a specialty piece of hardware. I'd look into getting a complete assembly as it sounds like there may be some other items missing from your set up. The whole shooting match is bolted on to the side of the trans. These assemblies are pretty much the same on most years of the flathead powered cars as long as the diameter of the trans brake drum is the same.

Frank - that will become obvious because of the shape of the tube - once you go to install it.

Absolutely love cold war motors. Those guys are a hoot, and the owner does fantastic metal fab, paint and body work. The 60 fury is a head shaker - what a project.

There are a number of designs used for throwout bearings. Of those the most durable is called an angular contact bearing. Be sure to get one of that type.

Purple - the easiest auto trans to use is either a 904 or a 727 torqueflite with a 273/318/340/360. These were used for 30 years or more in mopars, lots of them around in bone yards and in the aftermarket with reman and hipo units. Refer to Plymouthy's post for later model units with overdrive.

Or consider a late model ford 8.8 from an explorer, lots of ratios, limited slip units, with disc brakes 95 and up in the bone yards, and cheap - should be close to right axle width at 59.5 ". I had found a ford enthusiast website that had all the axle code info to search by the door tag. Another website to check is called "the ranger station". Mustang drag racers use these 8.8's with good success and durability. I considered using an 8.8 until I found the cherokee 8 1/4's w 3.55 ratio are cheap, plentiful and strong enough for a flattie powered car.

The original main seal should have been leather? Which you correctly soaked in oil. My guess is you need to install a speedy sleeve to get rid of the groove worn on the metal sealing surface of the drum. Speedy sleeves are thin stainless sleeves which repair a worn surface thereby establishing a new wear surface for the seal. To do this you will need to yank out the parking brake drum install the speedy sleeve and reassemble, I'd install a modern style neoprene lip seal as well while its apart. This can all be done without pulling the trans out of the car....

Check and see if the area where the nut that was under the trunk on the left side for the tank has a hole above it thru the trunk floor. It should use a similar shoulder nut like the other one that went in from the trunk floor. Most mopars of this era use the same type nut, they can be found. Maybe the left one was a retrofit for a missing piece of hardware. What you are referring to as fireproofing should be thick tar paper felt material, a cushioning material for the tank against the trunk floor and or frame members. The stuff in your picture looks like asphalt shingles ? By the way beauty of a car - and I have a 73 dart sport 340.... Not sure what the ferrule is for...maybe the fuel line connection ?

Main reason for higher zinc content in motor oil is to stop flat tappet lifters from wiping out the cam, it's a high shear high pressure lubricant additive. The EPA mandated a change in motor oil formulations that required the reduction of zinc content a number of years ago. Most if not all engines now use roller lifters which do not require the same amount of zinc as a flat tappet motor. Reason for this change were concerns over zinc affecting catalytic converters, trace zinc in the exhaust can apparently ruin the catalyst in converters, over an extremely long time, (over 100 K miles). I have a number of hot rod V8 flat tappet motors and use a zinc additive ZDDP plus in them. For the old flat head motors the valve spring pressure is so low that zinc is really not a requirement. And don't forget most oils still have some amount of ZDDP in them, it's just been reduced from the flat tappet era oil level.

Per Marc DeSoto above - I'd do some research on this model and when you go to see it, check that it has all the right trim items. The mechanical stuff I would guess is available. Its the soft and hard trim parts - chrome and glass, door handles arm rests, lenses etc that are probably difficult to find. (I'd still buy it if you want one. I think they are cool and way advanced for their time.)

Consider installing an overflow bottle too ?

You could try pulling 2 leafs out of the side that has ten and see how it sits....

The Aerostars are progressive as well, so they are non linear. So when cutting anything off of them be sure to cut the non-progessive end of the spring.

The parts store 180F types usually open at 190-195F. Before installing any thermostat I always check the opening heating the stat in a pot of water on the stove and an accurate thermometer, stirring constantly, heating slowly. You might find that a parts store 160 stat will open closer to 180. ...If you want a true opening at 180 F - use a robertshaw style stat from a muscle era mopar v8, yes they fit and work fine on my 52.

I personally am not a fan of these visors, (shoot me now), on any car, it's just my opinion. I understand the practical aspects of them, I just dont think much of the look. The lines of your car are perfect by the way, very nice car !