Dartgame

I bought mine on ebay for the opening bid + shipping. I don't think the seller was too happy. He used a women's hygiene product box to pack the heater (a subtle message i believe), which ended up in pretty bad shape by the time it got to me, but the heater itself was fine...

If you live in a highly populated area look up a semi truck transmission and clutch rebuilder and take your pressure plate disc and flywheel to them and tell them to do it to it. Living near Chicago there are companies that do this, which is exactly what I did. Perfect result. Turnaround in an afternoon.

The cable is secured to the side cover of the transmission using roughly a Y shaped piece of steel about 1/8 to 3/18 thick. A pinch bolt is used to clamp it in place. You would be best off getting a service manual and examine the drawings inside, which are above as well from KeithB7. All of the stuff related to the parking brake is external you do not need to drain the transmission. It sounds like you are mainly missing the adjuster bolt which as you can see is a specialty piece of hardware. I'd look into getting a complete assembly as it sounds like there may be some other items missing from your set up. The whole shooting match is bolted on to the side of the trans. These assemblies are pretty much the same on most years of the flathead powered cars as long as the diameter of the trans brake drum is the same.

Frank - that will become obvious because of the shape of the tube - once you go to install it.

Absolutely love cold war motors. Those guys are a hoot, and the owner does fantastic metal fab, paint and body work. The 60 fury is a head shaker - what a project.

There are a number of designs used for throwout bearings. Of those the most durable is called an angular contact bearing. Be sure to get one of that type.

Purple - the easiest auto trans to use is either a 904 or a 727 torqueflite with a 273/318/340/360. These were used for 30 years or more in mopars, lots of them around in bone yards and in the aftermarket with reman and hipo units. Refer to Plymouthy's post for later model units with overdrive.

Or consider a late model ford 8.8 from an explorer, lots of ratios, limited slip units, with disc brakes 95 and up in the bone yards, and cheap - should be close to right axle width at 59.5 ". I had found a ford enthusiast website that had all the axle code info to search by the door tag. Another website to check is called "the ranger station". Mustang drag racers use these 8.8's with good success and durability. I considered using an 8.8 until I found the cherokee 8 1/4's w 3.55 ratio are cheap, plentiful and strong enough for a flattie powered car.

The original main seal should have been leather? Which you correctly soaked in oil. My guess is you need to install a speedy sleeve to get rid of the groove worn on the metal sealing surface of the drum. Speedy sleeves are thin stainless sleeves which repair a worn surface thereby establishing a new wear surface for the seal. To do this you will need to yank out the parking brake drum install the speedy sleeve and reassemble, I'd install a modern style neoprene lip seal as well while its apart. This can all be done without pulling the trans out of the car....

Check and see if the area where the nut that was under the trunk on the left side for the tank has a hole above it thru the trunk floor. It should use a similar shoulder nut like the other one that went in from the trunk floor. Most mopars of this era use the same type nut, they can be found. Maybe the left one was a retrofit for a missing piece of hardware. What you are referring to as fireproofing should be thick tar paper felt material, a cushioning material for the tank against the trunk floor and or frame members. The stuff in your picture looks like asphalt shingles ? By the way beauty of a car - and I have a 73 dart sport 340.... Not sure what the ferrule is for...maybe the fuel line connection ?

Main reason for higher zinc content in motor oil is to stop flat tappet lifters from wiping out the cam, it's a high shear high pressure lubricant additive. The EPA mandated a change in motor oil formulations that required the reduction of zinc content a number of years ago. Most if not all engines now use roller lifters which do not require the same amount of zinc as a flat tappet motor. Reason for this change were concerns over zinc affecting catalytic converters, trace zinc in the exhaust can apparently ruin the catalyst in converters, over an extremely long time, (over 100 K miles). I have a number of hot rod V8 flat tappet motors and use a zinc additive ZDDP plus in them. For the old flat head motors the valve spring pressure is so low that zinc is really not a requirement. And don't forget most oils still have some amount of ZDDP in them, it's just been reduced from the flat tappet era oil level.

Per Marc DeSoto above - I'd do some research on this model and when you go to see it, check that it has all the right trim items. The mechanical stuff I would guess is available. Its the soft and hard trim parts - chrome and glass, door handles arm rests, lenses etc that are probably difficult to find. (I'd still buy it if you want one. I think they are cool and way advanced for their time.)

Consider installing an overflow bottle too ?

You could try pulling 2 leafs out of the side that has ten and see how it sits....

The Aerostars are progressive as well, so they are non linear. So when cutting anything off of them be sure to cut the non-progessive end of the spring.

The parts store 180F types usually open at 190-195F. Before installing any thermostat I always check the opening heating the stat in a pot of water on the stove and an accurate thermometer, stirring constantly, heating slowly. You might find that a parts store 160 stat will open closer to 180. ...If you want a true opening at 180 F - use a robertshaw style stat from a muscle era mopar v8, yes they fit and work fine on my 52.

I personally am not a fan of these visors, (shoot me now), on any car, it's just my opinion. I understand the practical aspects of them, I just dont think much of the look. The lines of your car are perfect by the way, very nice car !

I installed the aerostar springs on my 52 and new rear leafs. Car sat level. I wanted to lower the front end slightly, so I cut off 2/3 of a coil on each, from the non progessive end (bottom coils). Dropped the front end about 1 to 1.5 inches, I dont recall exact amount, but was perfect for what I was seeking. The aerostar coils are a progressive rate spring and will improve the handling & stability of the front end - I like it. These are cheap and easy to swap (about 45 for a pair) i'd try them out if I were you. If you dont like it - its only $45 and you can swap in stockers in that case. It took me about an hour to swap the springs in and out per side - not taking into account time I spent cleaning the lower control arms and painting them.

I've got a pair of new black lap belts and reinforcing mount plates that I'm not going to use. message me if interested.

I tried Roberts, AB and Steele. The best fit were from Steele, but still not great. The others simply would not have sealed well at all. Crap shoot. Keep your receipts if you need to return them.

What is making you decide to do this. Performance issues ? Fuel problems ?

Maybe the coil is bad and that caused the pertronix failure ?

Could be the center section was swapped at some point....always a smart idea to check the bearing numbers and confirm as you did ! Interesting the axle had so much sludge inside. I suppose that had to do with the mineral type lube originally used in these things.

Sorry I have no idea. Logically speaking if it was in the car and fit - it should be original...I know, not much help...Very nice job sandblasting !

Hi Tim - I have one of the "380" cams and was wondering if you have a cam intake degree centerline specification for it. I got in the habit of checking centerlines on any engine build I do many years ago. Eventually I intend to install this cam in a 230 which will be hot rodded.